If you have power going to the car but it shuts out after you try to start it?
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myponyrocks
I have more billet on the Stang than most women ha
- Apr 18, 2004
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battery could be dead, mine did that... accessories worked, but car would just click and not start.
98bluevert
New Member
try charging the batt. or it might be the chip in your key, try your other key and see if its the same problem or not.
Update on whats going on with the car. Its really getting on my nerves now. I've discovered that the car only has power when its hooked up to jump start with another car and the other car is running. But it won't start. It tries for a bit, 3 seconds and stops and doesn't do anything else. I don't have a battery charger. What to do I do. I'm assuming its a dead battery but is it a dead battery?
trinity_gt
10 Year Member
You were asking here about another electrical issue. Are these related? Have you done anything with regard to that issue that suddenly caused this to pop up?
Starter motors require a tremendous amount of current. When stopped, the are pretty close to a short circuit. A fully charged, healthy battery will have no problem supplying the large initial current for the starter and maintaining a current delivery to keep it turning. However, a dodgy battery (one that is discharged, one that has high internal resistance and so on) will not be able to meet these demands. The result will be that the voltage at the terminals will drop giving the appearance that everything is dead. The same type of symptoms can happen with loose or corroded connections at the battery (+ and -) and on the chassis (-). Bad connections means high resistance means a large voltage drop when current demands are high.
Check you connections first. Clean and tighten as required. Turn the interior lights on and crank the engine (or try to...) If the lights go out completely, your battery is likely done. With the engine running, what is the voltage at the battery terminals? It should be around 14V, give or take. If it's lower, you may have an alternator issue.
If the car fails to start after an evening of sitting (dead battery symptoms), the possible causes are varied: bad battery, bad alternator, phantom draw (e.g. trunk light staying on) etc etc.
Given that you're not sure about electrical stuff, I suggest taking it to a specialist to have the battery and charging system checked out.
Starter motors require a tremendous amount of current. When stopped, the are pretty close to a short circuit. A fully charged, healthy battery will have no problem supplying the large initial current for the starter and maintaining a current delivery to keep it turning. However, a dodgy battery (one that is discharged, one that has high internal resistance and so on) will not be able to meet these demands. The result will be that the voltage at the terminals will drop giving the appearance that everything is dead. The same type of symptoms can happen with loose or corroded connections at the battery (+ and -) and on the chassis (-). Bad connections means high resistance means a large voltage drop when current demands are high.
Check you connections first. Clean and tighten as required. Turn the interior lights on and crank the engine (or try to...) If the lights go out completely, your battery is likely done. With the engine running, what is the voltage at the battery terminals? It should be around 14V, give or take. If it's lower, you may have an alternator issue.
If the car fails to start after an evening of sitting (dead battery symptoms), the possible causes are varied: bad battery, bad alternator, phantom draw (e.g. trunk light staying on) etc etc.
Given that you're not sure about electrical stuff, I suggest taking it to a specialist to have the battery and charging system checked out.
Miles
Founding Member
Sounds like you might have a starter motor problem and a battery/electrical problem...
- get battery tested at parts store, most times it's free
- test the ignition relay voltage in and voltage out to ensure you're getting the voltage from the clutch pedal sensor and ingition switch
- If that checks out, it could be the starter motor. This would explain why the accessories run fine, but the car won't start. I would check the voltage into the starter motor.
- get battery tested at parts store, most times it's free
- test the ignition relay voltage in and voltage out to ensure you're getting the voltage from the clutch pedal sensor and ingition switch
- If that checks out, it could be the starter motor. This would explain why the accessories run fine, but the car won't start. I would check the voltage into the starter motor.
I guess I'm gonna have to call the tow truck.
1. I have cleaned the battery posts and battery connectors
2. Tightened battery connectors for a good connection(not loose)
3. banged on the starter/solenoid
4. tried jumping the car many times
5. Since the car does get power if its being jumped and doesn't get power if its not. I ruled out the starter.
6. I can't check to see if its the alternator since I can't get it started to remove the negative batter cable to see if the car quits.
7. The next thing I will try before giving up is putting the battery from my 03 in it to see if I can get it to start. Than I can rule out the battery or not.
1. I have cleaned the battery posts and battery connectors
2. Tightened battery connectors for a good connection(not loose)
3. banged on the starter/solenoid
4. tried jumping the car many times
5. Since the car does get power if its being jumped and doesn't get power if its not. I ruled out the starter.
6. I can't check to see if its the alternator since I can't get it started to remove the negative batter cable to see if the car quits.
7. The next thing I will try before giving up is putting the battery from my 03 in it to see if I can get it to start. Than I can rule out the battery or not.
NO BRAKES
New Member
does the starter crank, and no start? or when you turn the key forward nothing happens?
it could be that the pats system has lost programming.
how many volts does your battery have?
have you checked all of your fuses? inside and out? with a multi meter!
check the voltage at the steering column. i had a car last week at my shop that the pats system was good, the battery was good, all fuses were ok, and the starter tested out properly.
the problem the car i had was that there was a voltage drop from one of the main 30amp fuses under the hood to the connector at the column. went from 12v in fuse box to 6.3v in the car. I had to run a new wire, that was the 12v wire that suplied the key cylinder, when turned to supply power to blinker relay and it also powered the STARTER wire that went to the starter solenoid.
I had something exactly like that happen to my car. The problem was the wire that connects into the part that connects to the battery post was loose. There are two little bolts that you can tighten. I did that and it solved the problem. This was on the post closest to the front bumper. I hope that makes sense and I hope that works. My car is a 98, but i do not think it should be much different.
