PLEASE HELP !!! MY STANG IS SICK

[pitstang420]

Here is what happened I was driving and out of no where it started to spit and sputter I would push the clutch in and it would rev up when I gave it gas the I would try to go again it would want to die and I could smell gas so I thought maybe my fuel silinode was leaking from my wet nitrous kit but I checked it and the line was dry but when I started it up it would surge up and down twice then it would die and I noticed the tach was going crazy up and down but now it will not start at all but I can smell gas it is a 92 5.0 fuel injected 5 speed car so any HELP with this would be great thanks

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[ID89GT]

Here is what happened I was driving and out of no where it started to spit and sputter I would push the clutch in and it would rev up when I gave it gas the I would try to go again it would want to die and I could smell gas so I thought maybe my fuel silinode was leaking from my wet nitrous kit but I checked it and the line was dry but when I started it up it would surge up and down twice then it would die and I noticed the tach was going crazy up and down but now it will not start at all but I can smell gas it is a 92 5.0 fuel injected 5 speed car so any HELP with this would be great thanks

That makes like no sense at all?

 

[jrichker]

Halp! I cen't spal or punctuate....

Sorry, my redneck dictionary is unavailable at this moment to translate your post...

 

[pitstang420]

Ya I don't know what is redneck about my post but anyways I went out there this morning to try to start it and all it did was crank so after work I decided to get my test light out and check to see if my coil was getting power so I hooked up my light and cranked it and it started up with no problem but I let it run for 15 mins and then the problems came back first the tach started jumping around then motor started to surge at idle but would rev up just fine then after acouple mins it just died but would start back up but idle rough then just die ????? I can't check my coil power cause it is starting so that seems to be ok what do you think about dist. moduel or any othe ideas?

 

[87pony]

If its the Ignition Control Module it will usually just cut off and die, not with the sputtering idle. You can take it to autozone and they can cycle test it to see if it is the Control Module tho. If you do make sure they cycle it at least three times. Many times heat is what causes them to malfunction.

 

[SMOKEDYA]

+1 on the module! BUT dont always trust there tester thingy! I had them run a test on my module in my 4 banger and it tested fine 40 times! YES i said 40 times! Bring it home install it and samething all over again! Bought a new one problem fixed! Now back to your deal when i was trying to fire my 351 up same deal it would spit sputter and nothing replaced the module with a accel one and fired right off. no problems since! if you were closer i'd barrow you one of the 2 stock ones i have. maybe a buddy can barrow you one off his stang? remember! 2 bolts hold it on. after you unbolt it it just slides down to come off! sooooo many people think it pulls off the dizzy! It dont! peace




john

 

[92 LX]

Are you still smelling gas?
FWIW I too have a '92 and a couple of months ago, I smelled gas.
It turned out to be a leaking fuel pressure regulator.
I don't know about the sputtering issue though. I suppose this would cause this.
'Still learning from the pros on this site.

Thanks guys

 

[pitstang420]

thanks everyone for all the ideas it is running again now the pick up in the dist. I guess was broke I was looking at in when I was cranking it over and it was moving so I swapped out the dist. with another one I had and bamm it was alive again but THANKS to everyone that posted to help me out