Sorry guy I kinda laughed when i read this the 1st time but now I see where you are going.
First off... junking the puny 13" wheels and going to at least a 14" or better yet a 15" or 16" wheel 7"-8" (possibly 9" or 10" out back) with lower profile tires will do your handling wonders.
Front
Suspension-
No those 'kits' are not what you want. Those kits are to specifically adapt the entire MII style
suspension to various types of vehicles. You already got the main piece(s) right there on your MII that these other cars would lack. Back in the day guys would have to graft a raw factory MII main crossmember into the chassis of their street rod if they wanted to run MII
suspension. That's what's in my '47 Ford coupe, an actual factory crossmember grafted onto my '47s frame. Looks really good too. But these kits simplify that step with pre-fabbed crossmembers that fit the frame of your particular vehicle.
In your case look below in that link you posed and you'll see a host of upgradeable items such as tubular upper and lower contol arms, different rate coil springs, coil over shock assemblies if you dont want to run stock coils, larger disc brake upgrades, drop spindles, various size sway bars, and so much more. You can thank the street rod communtiy with the popularity of II's front end for the mass amount of aftermarket parts at your disposal.
A cheap and easy upgrade for the II
suspension is to swap to Granada rotors (10" or 11"... can't remember) with either stock calipers or GM calipers. This will net you about 1/2" wider track width, but that not all that noticable. It really all depends on what you're trying to achieve witht he car as what to do with the
suspension.
Shoot, you can swap to brand new 5-lug rotors that bolt right in on your all stock setup for a measley $60. Chevrolet, Ford car, or early Ford car/truck bolt patterns all available. You can't beat that.
Rear
Suspension-
The rear isn't as popular as the front
suspension, but is actually typical of all parallel leaf suspensions. The quickest and easiest upgrade would be to add the factory rear sway bar and new rear leaf springs. Upgrade the rear axle iteslf to a 9" or a different 8" with larger 10" drum brakes. Lots of kits now to convert your 8 or 9 inch rear to disc brakes.
You want an IRS or 4-link from what you stated. It's doable, just as any other leaf sprung car. Beware though, you will need to be pretty proficient at welding and fabricating which really goes hand-in-hand installing a 4-link into just about any other car too. The best way would be to back-half the car. Basically cut out the entire underside of the car, old rear subframe and all from the floorpans on back. Then install new framerails and then set up your 4-link. An IRS (independent rear
suspension) would be the same way but you'd have to find an IRS that has a track width you could live with. Off the top of my head, a Jaguar XKE rear would probably be the only one I would guess with a track width you could make use of. The XJ6s are just too wide, at about 60". I'm in the works building a narrowed XJ6 rear for my '25 Model T squeezing it down to 56". IRS is really spendy, a 4-link with a soild rear axle would probably be more economical not to mention, set up right, will perform just as good.
Bottom line is.. Figure out what you want the car to do and what kinda of a budget you need to work with. Believe it or not, these Mustang IIs, out of the box, perform very well if you have the sports handling package. You'd be surprised yourself if you drove a II with rebuilt
suspension that had the front and rear sway bars. With a few monor improvements, even being leaf out back, still holds to the road very well.
You want real proof that the II's have what it takes, check this guy out. He actually use to be a regular around the forums here. Check out these links-
1976 Ford Mustang II Cobra Alcino Azevedo Jr. - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine
1976 Ford Mustang Cobra II - Low-Buck Bully - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine
He's 100% proof that you don't need a pile of money or a bunck of fancy trash to make a car stick to the road. You just need the right combo. As always Al... Great job!