Running akward now...

[87MustangGT5.0]

So I when I bought my 92 gt from the original owner it ran like a dream, almost perfect. I installed a moroso intake, bbk headers, bbk o/r H pipe, mac catback, and march underdrive pullies.

One day I got in the car and it did not seem to rev as easy or idle as good anymore so I ignired it saying it was in my hard. The gas milage dropped from 240 miles per tank, down to 180. Now the more i drive it, it seems to be hesistant under light throttle and you have to give it more gas to move than before, it kind of bucks like it would when you let off the gas and coast without pushing the clutch in, but nowhere near as noticable, its real light. It also sounds like it has a baby cam in it at idle, but i figured thats just can you can actually hear it run now lol.

At fuel throttle the car seems to be ok though but still seems like it takes way too long to rev. The fuel pressure is at 42psi with no vacuum on a stock regulator and the timing is at 14 degrees.

Things I replaced before this started were:
-msd wires
-msd cap and rotor
-autolite plugs
-Fuel filter
-pcv valve
-MSD street heat coil
-ran seafoam through
-New o2 sensors

One thing I noticed was that the fuel pump is really loud but it reads high pressure and even after sitting all night barely primes in the morning I guess because the pump is holding pressure?

The check engine light is not on......Can someone lead me in the next direction? Thanks so much.

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[87MustangGT5.0]

KOEO:
-67
-33

KOER:
-4??? it only flashed four times

 

[87MustangGT5.0]

There is also no vaccum coming from the egr line at idle, this is normal right?

 

[jrichker]

Some basic theory to clarify how things work is in order…

EGR System theory and testing

The EGR shuts off at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), so it has minimal effect on performance. The addition of exhaust gas drops combustion temperature, increases gas mileage and reduces the tendency of the engine to ping. It can also reduce HC emissions by reducing fuel consumption. The primary result of EGR usage is a reduction in NOx emissions.

The EGR system has a vacuum source (line from the intake manifold) that goes to the EVR, computer operated electronic vacuum regulator. The EVR is located on the back of the passenger side shock strut tower. The computer uses RPM, Load. and some other factors to tell the EVR to pass vacuum to open the EGR valve. The EGR valve and the passages in the heads and intake manifold route exhaust gas to the EGR spacer (throttle body spacer). The EGR sensor tells the computer how far the EGR valve is open. Then computer adjusts the signal sent to the EVR to hold, increase or decrease the vacuum. The computer adds spark advance to compensate for the recirculated gases and the slower rate they burn at.

Troubleshooting:
There should be no vacuum at the EGR valve when at idle. If there is, the EVR (electronic vacuum regulator) mounted on the backside of the passenger side wheelwell is suspect. Check the vacuum line plumbing to make sure the previous owner didn’t cross the vacuum lines.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds. (the diagram says 88 GT, but the EGR part is the same for 86-93 Mustangs)

The EGR sensor is basically a variable resistor, like the volume control on a radio. One end is 5 volt VREF power from the computer (red/orange wire). One end is computer signal ground (black/white), and the middle wire (brown/lt green) is the signal output from the EGR sensor. It is designed to always have some small voltage output from it anytime the ignition switch is the Run position. That way the computer knows the sensor & the wiring is OK. No voltage on computer pin 27 (brown/lt green wire) and the computer thinks the sensor is bad or the wire is broken and sets code 31. The voltage output can range from approximately .6-.85 volt.

The EVR regulates vacuum to the EGR valve to maintain the correct amount of vacuum. The solenoid coil should measure 20-70 Ohms resistance. The regulator has a vacuum feed on the bottom which draws from the intake manifold. The other vacuum line is regulated vacuum going to the EGR valve. One side of the EVR electrical circuit is +12 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side of the electrical circuit is the ground path and is controlled by the computer. The computer switches the ground on and off to control the regulator solenoid.



EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

to check the EGR valve:
bring the engine to normal temp.
connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve
apply 5in vacuum to the valve.
if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.
if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.
if engine stumbled, connect vacuum gauge to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve
snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
did the vacuum gauge show about 2-5 in vacuum?

if not, check for manifold vacuum at the EGR vacuum valve.
if you have manifold vacuum then connect vacuum gauge to the EGR valve side of the vacuum valve and snap throttle to 2500 RPM.
should read about 2-5 in vacuum

To test the computer, you can use a test light across the EVR wiring connectors and dump the codes. When you dump the codes, the computer does a self test that toggles every relay/actuator/solenoid on and off. When this happens, the test light will flicker.

Late Model Restoration has the Ford Racing M-12071-N302 kit with the EGR valve & sensor along with the ACT & ECT sensors for $45. See * * * N/A * * * 86-93 SENSOR KIT, 5.0L EFI, INCLUDES EGR VALVE & SENSOR, COOLANT TEMP SENSOR, & AIR CHARGE TEMP SENSOR MUSTANG for more details

 

[87MustangGT5.0]

Ok so I pumped on the valve and could see it working and heard the engine stumble. So then I checked the vacuum from the intake with my guage and it was fine. The only thing that I dont understand is when I put the guage between the solenoid and the egr valve and blip the thottle, there is no vacuum ever coming out of the soloenoid. But, shouldnt there never be vacuum to open the EGR unles the car is under a load? Should you be able to stand under the hood and watch the egr open when you rev up? Also if the positioning sensor is bad could that effect how it runs?

 

[87MustangGT5.0]

anybody know anything about this?

 

[ID89GT]

If I remember correctly, you shouldn't have vacuum in between the solenoid and the egr valve unless under load.. The solenoid is like an on and off switch for the valve, and the computer opens it only at certain times. If you have vacuum at idle then that solenoid is not working correctly or there is a problem with the egr system.

 

[87MustangGT5.0]

Thanks buddy, It just makes me wonder why the test above tells me to check for vacuum after the solenoid when reving sitting still. Along with the haynes emissions book. I am lost lol anyone else have input to this? is there any way a functioning egr thats dirty could do any of this?