code 33 makes me angry

[87MustangGT5.0]

Ok right to the point

-EGR valve works when vacuum pump is applied
-10 psi of vacuum from intake to solenoid
-no vacuum from solenoid to egr valve when blipping throttle but doesnt there need to be a load?

Where do I go with this, the code is set at koeo and I have been stumped for 2 weeks. Thanks guys.

 

[jrichker]

Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
Look for vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines, failed EGR vacuum regulator. Check to see if you have 10” of vacuum at the EGR vacuum connection coming from the intake manifold. Look for electrical signal at the vacuum regulator solenoid valves located on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. Using a test light across the electrical connector, it should flicker as the electrical signal flickers. Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.
Check for resistance between the brown/lt green wire on the EGR sensor and pin 27 on the computer: you should have less than 1.5 ohm.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif


EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

to check the EGR valve:
bring the engine to normal temp.
connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve
apply 5in vacuum to the valve.
if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.
if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.
if engine stumbled, connect vacuum gauge to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve
snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
did the vacuum gauge show about 2-5 in vacuum?

if not, check for manifold vacuum at the EGR vacuum valve.
if you have manifold vacuum then connect vacuum gauge to the EGR valve side of the vacuum valve and snap throttle to 2500 RPM.
should read about 2- 5 in vacuum

The operation of the EGR vacuum regulator can be checked by using a test light applied across the wiring connector. Jumper the computer into self test mode and turn the key on but do not start the engine. You will hear all the actuators (including the EVR vacuum regulator) cycle. Watch for the light to flicker: that means the computer has signaled the EGR vacuum regulator successfully.

 

[87MustangGT5.0]

I have done the test like 10 times now and i do not not get vacuum from the solenoid to the egr valve when blipping the throttle, but why would you when your not under a load?

 

[jrichker]

Have you checked the EGR vacuum regultor to see if you are getting the electrical signal to operate the vacuum regulator?

 

[joel5.0]

Does it show as a KOER code?

 

[87MustangGT5.0]

its a koeo code, and what do i use for the test, a test light. The wiring is all original in this car so if its not working, would the ecm be to blame? I just replace the valve, sensor, and solenoid and it still does not open when reving under the hood.

 

[jrichker]

Use a regular 12 volt test light. One side of the circuit (red wire)has power anytime the engine is running. The computer provides a switched ground to complete the path and make the EVR open. The computer switches the ground on and off many times a second to regulate the vacuum.

The IAB uses the same technique to control the idle. See the diagram below to get and idea of how the computer switching the ground on and off can be used to control vacuum or airflow.