ok i have a 1 car garage its a little narrow, i am getting ready to change clutch and i went to walmart and bought plastic 4 plastic ramps. my question is i intend to drive up on the front 2 and then jack up the rear and slide the other 2 ramps under the tires. does this sound about right? if so where do i jack from the rear so i can have both rear tires uo? should i do it on the rear axle housing? and the car can stay on the ramps for days right? im placing 2 horse under the subframe should the plastic ever give. ok thanks for any help in advance or if anyone has better ideas
using ramps
- Thread starter lex2lo
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I never had too much luck with the ramps. The front bottom of the car would hit and push the ramps before the tires reaching them.
I do 4 jack stands. Two up under the k-member and 2 under the rear housing. Then I put 8 x 8 wood block under the tires. I jack the car up with a floor jack.
Just make sure that whatever you have the car up on, that it is solid and secure. You won't survive the car falling on you.
I do 4 jack stands. Two up under the k-member and 2 under the rear housing. Then I put 8 x 8 wood block under the tires. I jack the car up with a floor jack.
Just make sure that whatever you have the car up on, that it is solid and secure. You won't survive the car falling on you.
I've used ramps in a pinch but i prefer jack stands. The reason is, there's nothing stopping the car from rolling off the ramps. When a car is on jack stands, it's stationary and won't roll in any direction, whereas on ramps the front wheels are free spinning. It may not be very likely, but i'm not taking chances because like mentioned, if the car falls on you, it's game over for you.
I like the idea of 8x8 railroad tie blocks or cinder blocks under each tire....that would probably save your ass and at least give some chance of living if it fell. You'd have to get the car up pretty high to get them under the tires though.
I like the idea of 8x8 railroad tie blocks or cinder blocks under each tire....that would probably save your ass and at least give some chance of living if it fell. You'd have to get the car up pretty high to get them under the tires though.
bubba-dough
Active Member
Ramps are not designed to handle the entire weight of a vehicle, especially the plastic ones. They are designed to support the little weight that putting the car up in the front or the rear at a downward angle creates. Look at the paper that came with them and I bet it states that. I also don't think ramps are going to give you the room you will want unless you are a buck o' 5.
I use jack stands and both my floor jacks.
I use jack stands and both my floor jacks.
rd
Founding Member
Used ramps and jackstands. Much prefer jackstands.
It is hard to put the front of a Fox up on ramps, the bumper cover may hit the ramps before the wheels. You can try to put 2x4s' or something down in front of the ramps to help.
There is a better chance of the wheels pushing the ramps out of the way than actually driving up on them also, unless you can fasten the ramps in place. Front drive cars work ok on ramps.
I have always jacked the rear of a Fox under the center of the differential, by the case, not the edge of the cover, and the front under the center of the K member.
It is hard to put the front of a Fox up on ramps, the bumper cover may hit the ramps before the wheels. You can try to put 2x4s' or something down in front of the ramps to help.
There is a better chance of the wheels pushing the ramps out of the way than actually driving up on them also, unless you can fasten the ramps in place. Front drive cars work ok on ramps.
I have always jacked the rear of a Fox under the center of the differential, by the case, not the edge of the cover, and the front under the center of the K member.
the pony boy
Founding Member
i have did the front on ramps and the rear on stands.thats the way the car sits rite now waiting for me to put my valvebody in.but i did have to jack the car up by the front k member to put the ramps under the front because my car is to low to drive on them.i usually leave the jack under the front as well when im done just to be a little safer. phil
Whatever method you use, give the car several good bumps to make sure it's stable before crawling underneath it. I'd rather have to repair the undercarriage if it fell on a jackstand than to meet a cardiothoracic surgeon at age 29, should I survive the car landing on me and crushing my entire ribcage.
StreetDreamsGT
New Member
That's the exact same thing I do... and I make sure I rock the car back n forth before crawling under there. I don't mind the jackstands method but I don't feel all that safe with them as opposed to four ramps. I can't wait until I can get a garage with a lift 
. lex2lo I wouldn't exactly trust plastic ramps though.... IF you insist on using them drive the front wheels up then jack up the rear using the differential housing, and make sure you rock it to check and see if it's stable before you crawl under. Safety first.... can't enjoy your car when you're trapped under it..
If you are going to replace the clutch, you'll need some extra height to get the trans out from under the car. You will need to be able to bench press 75 lbs all by yourself and hold it while you wiggle the trans back into place. You will need an old T5 input shaft(best tool for the job) or a pilot shaft tool to align the clutch disk and the pilot bearing. You can get the plastic pilot tool from the auto parts store for about $5. They are plastic and the tolerances are a little loose, so sometimes you end up with the trans binding just about the time you need to slide it in the last 1/2".
If you use a trans jack, you will need 24"-26" clearance to get the trans in and out from under the car. The trans jack is great if you have a Tremec 3550 or TKO,(weight is 100lbs+) or just can't bench press the T5 long enough to do the job.
Some more tips...
Before you get started, buy a Chilton or Haynes shop manual. You will need it for the bolt torques and patterns.
1.) Jack up the car front and rear, use jack stands to be safe.
2.) Put a 2x4 wood block under the engine oil pan to support the engine. Jack it up slightly. This prevents damage to the motor mounts when the transmission mount is removed. The oil pan is plenty strong for this purpose. Disconnect the negative battery cable. You will need a couple of extensions and a ½” swivel socket to remove the top starter mount bolt, which is accessed from the front and under the headers. Leave the starter wiring connected unless you plan to change the starter at this time.
3.) Label all the wiring for the transmission before disconnecting it. Disconnect the O2 sensor cables at their connectors. Disconnect the speedo cable by pulling it straight out of the VSS sensor, or by removing the bolt that holds the VSS sensor in place. If you remove the VSS sensor, zip bag & tag it along with the bolt that secures in place.
4.) Remove the drive shaft, the rear bolts are 12 MM. You will need a high quality 12 point wrench for this: do not skimp or you risk rounding off the bolt heads. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to loosen the bolts. Note the yellow markings in the drive shaft and write down their alignment.
5.) Put a catch pan under the rear of the transmission to catch the fluid when you slide the yoke out of the transmission. I recommend that you drain the transmission at this time. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the lower plug to drain the fluid.
6.) Inside the car, remove the shifter boot and then remove the shifter handle
7.) Remove the H pipe & rear trans cross member. The chassis to cross member bolts are metric, you need a 15 MM & 17 MM socket or wrench. Note the direction and size of the humps on the cross member and write it down. Inspect the rear transmission mount and replace if damaged.
8.) Remove the transmission. You will need a long extension & a universal joint with a ¾” socket. A transmission jack or a helper is almost a must have unless you can bench press 75-100 pounds with ease.
8.) Remove the clutch cable cover and pry the throwout bearing arm forward enough to slide the cable off.
9.) Remove the bell housing using the long extension & a universal joint socket. Note how the throwout bearing rides it the throwout bearing arm, and which end faces the clutch pressure plate. Write it down or make a drawing if necessary.
10.) Remove the bolts securing the pressure plate to flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Work in a star pattern to reduce stress on the pressure plate mounting tabs.
11.) Remove the flywheel mount bolts, as you will need to either replace or re-surface the flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Tap the locator dowels out of the flywheel with a 1/4" pin punch. Zip bag them together with the flywheel bolts.
12.) Inspect the transmission input shaft where the throwout bearing rides. Replace it if worn or damaged.
13.) Inspect the throwout bearing, throwout bearing arm and ball pivot stud for wear or damage.
14.) Inspect the rear oil seal for leakage and replace if required.
15.) Remove & replace the pilot bearing. A puller borrowed or rented is helpful here. A wood block will be used to drive it home.
16.) Install the flywheel, noting that the bolts are an odd pattern, and it only lines up one way so that all the bolts go in easily. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Install the locator dowels at this time.
17.) Install the clutch disk with the hub springs facing the rear of the car. Use a pilot tool available for $3-$4 from the auto parts store to line it up.
18. Install the pressure plate, be sure to use the pilot tool prior to tightening the pressure plate bolts. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Remove the pilot tool when you are finished torquing the bolts.
19.) Install the throwout bearing on the throwout bearing arm, noting the direction of the bearing and it mounting in the arm.
20.) Install the bell housing. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
21. Install the transmission, have the transmission jack or helper at hand to lift it into place. Watch out that the stub of the shifter does not tear the shifter boot. Some 7/16 bolts with the heads cut off can be used to help support the transmission as you slide it home. It may be necessary to press the clutch pedal to get the transmission to slide the last ½” or so. Remove the guide studs if you used them & torque to specs according to the shop manual.
22.) Reinstall the clutch cable by prying on the throwout bearing arm. Replacement of the stock cable or quadrant is recommended if you haven’t already done so. With adjustable cables, both nuts go on the back side of the throwout bearing arm.
23.) Reinstall the rear crossmember & transmission mount. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
24.) Reinstall the wiring and speedo cable or VSS sensor if you removed it.
25.) Reinstall the drive shaft, slide the yoke in place. Align the rear yellow markings and install the bolts. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to tighten the bolts.
26.) Remove the jack from under the engine oil pan.
27.) Refill the transmission with the proper fluid. T5’s use Dextron ATF, Tremec 3550’s use GM Synchromesh. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the top plug as the filler port.
28.) Adjust the clutch cable according the manufacturer’s instructions if you have an adjustable cable & quadrant. Set the emergency brake and use the drag it provides in order to determine where the clutch starts to engage. You should have 1 -1 ½” free play from the top. The cable will not have any slack and will have some preload on it when properly adjusted.
29.) Re-install the H pipe and remaining items.
30.) When you have visually checked all the bolts, fittings and other parts are present and not interfering with each other, then take the car down off the jack stands.
31.) Be prepared to put the car back up on the jack stands to adjust the clutch and tighten up any loose items found after the test drive…
If you have a T5, you may be able to remove the trans & re-install it if you can bench press the 75 lbs that it weighs. If 75 lbs is too heavy, don't hurt yourself, get a trans jack. If your car has a Tremec 3550 or TKO, you will need a helper or trans jack because it weighs 100 + lbs. I built a trans jack from 2x2 angle iron, some swivel casters, 2x4's, 2x6's and a cheap floor jack. PM me if you are interested & I will send you the photos (8 MB) with the write up.
While you are at it, replace the stock cable & quadrant if it is still present. When you buy the cable & quadrant and maybe a firewall adjuster, make sure they are all the same make. That way you have some assurance that they work together. I have a FMS quadrant & cable, & have had no problems with it. The FMS adjustable cable doesn't stretch and operates smoothly. The only thing is that you have to get under the car to make adjustments.
If you use a trans jack, you will need 24"-26" clearance to get the trans in and out from under the car. The trans jack is great if you have a Tremec 3550 or TKO,(weight is 100lbs+) or just can't bench press the T5 long enough to do the job.
Some more tips...
Before you get started, buy a Chilton or Haynes shop manual. You will need it for the bolt torques and patterns.
1.) Jack up the car front and rear, use jack stands to be safe.
2.) Put a 2x4 wood block under the engine oil pan to support the engine. Jack it up slightly. This prevents damage to the motor mounts when the transmission mount is removed. The oil pan is plenty strong for this purpose. Disconnect the negative battery cable. You will need a couple of extensions and a ½” swivel socket to remove the top starter mount bolt, which is accessed from the front and under the headers. Leave the starter wiring connected unless you plan to change the starter at this time.
3.) Label all the wiring for the transmission before disconnecting it. Disconnect the O2 sensor cables at their connectors. Disconnect the speedo cable by pulling it straight out of the VSS sensor, or by removing the bolt that holds the VSS sensor in place. If you remove the VSS sensor, zip bag & tag it along with the bolt that secures in place.
4.) Remove the drive shaft, the rear bolts are 12 MM. You will need a high quality 12 point wrench for this: do not skimp or you risk rounding off the bolt heads. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to loosen the bolts. Note the yellow markings in the drive shaft and write down their alignment.
5.) Put a catch pan under the rear of the transmission to catch the fluid when you slide the yoke out of the transmission. I recommend that you drain the transmission at this time. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the lower plug to drain the fluid.
6.) Inside the car, remove the shifter boot and then remove the shifter handle
7.) Remove the H pipe & rear trans cross member. The chassis to cross member bolts are metric, you need a 15 MM & 17 MM socket or wrench. Note the direction and size of the humps on the cross member and write it down. Inspect the rear transmission mount and replace if damaged.
8.) Remove the transmission. You will need a long extension & a universal joint with a ¾” socket. A transmission jack or a helper is almost a must have unless you can bench press 75-100 pounds with ease.
8.) Remove the clutch cable cover and pry the throwout bearing arm forward enough to slide the cable off.
9.) Remove the bell housing using the long extension & a universal joint socket. Note how the throwout bearing rides it the throwout bearing arm, and which end faces the clutch pressure plate. Write it down or make a drawing if necessary.
10.) Remove the bolts securing the pressure plate to flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Work in a star pattern to reduce stress on the pressure plate mounting tabs.
11.) Remove the flywheel mount bolts, as you will need to either replace or re-surface the flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Tap the locator dowels out of the flywheel with a 1/4" pin punch. Zip bag them together with the flywheel bolts.
12.) Inspect the transmission input shaft where the throwout bearing rides. Replace it if worn or damaged.
13.) Inspect the throwout bearing, throwout bearing arm and ball pivot stud for wear or damage.
14.) Inspect the rear oil seal for leakage and replace if required.
15.) Remove & replace the pilot bearing. A puller borrowed or rented is helpful here. A wood block will be used to drive it home.
16.) Install the flywheel, noting that the bolts are an odd pattern, and it only lines up one way so that all the bolts go in easily. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Install the locator dowels at this time.
17.) Install the clutch disk with the hub springs facing the rear of the car. Use a pilot tool available for $3-$4 from the auto parts store to line it up.
18. Install the pressure plate, be sure to use the pilot tool prior to tightening the pressure plate bolts. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Remove the pilot tool when you are finished torquing the bolts.
19.) Install the throwout bearing on the throwout bearing arm, noting the direction of the bearing and it mounting in the arm.
20.) Install the bell housing. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
21. Install the transmission, have the transmission jack or helper at hand to lift it into place. Watch out that the stub of the shifter does not tear the shifter boot. Some 7/16 bolts with the heads cut off can be used to help support the transmission as you slide it home. It may be necessary to press the clutch pedal to get the transmission to slide the last ½” or so. Remove the guide studs if you used them & torque to specs according to the shop manual.
22.) Reinstall the clutch cable by prying on the throwout bearing arm. Replacement of the stock cable or quadrant is recommended if you haven’t already done so. With adjustable cables, both nuts go on the back side of the throwout bearing arm.
23.) Reinstall the rear crossmember & transmission mount. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
24.) Reinstall the wiring and speedo cable or VSS sensor if you removed it.
25.) Reinstall the drive shaft, slide the yoke in place. Align the rear yellow markings and install the bolts. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to tighten the bolts.
26.) Remove the jack from under the engine oil pan.
27.) Refill the transmission with the proper fluid. T5’s use Dextron ATF, Tremec 3550’s use GM Synchromesh. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the top plug as the filler port.
28.) Adjust the clutch cable according the manufacturer’s instructions if you have an adjustable cable & quadrant. Set the emergency brake and use the drag it provides in order to determine where the clutch starts to engage. You should have 1 -1 ½” free play from the top. The cable will not have any slack and will have some preload on it when properly adjusted.
29.) Re-install the H pipe and remaining items.
30.) When you have visually checked all the bolts, fittings and other parts are present and not interfering with each other, then take the car down off the jack stands.
31.) Be prepared to put the car back up on the jack stands to adjust the clutch and tighten up any loose items found after the test drive…
If you have a T5, you may be able to remove the trans & re-install it if you can bench press the 75 lbs that it weighs. If 75 lbs is too heavy, don't hurt yourself, get a trans jack. If your car has a Tremec 3550 or TKO, you will need a helper or trans jack because it weighs 100 + lbs. I built a trans jack from 2x2 angle iron, some swivel casters, 2x4's, 2x6's and a cheap floor jack. PM me if you are interested & I will send you the photos (8 MB) with the write up.
While you are at it, replace the stock cable & quadrant if it is still present. When you buy the cable & quadrant and maybe a firewall adjuster, make sure they are all the same make. That way you have some assurance that they work together. I have a FMS quadrant & cable, & have had no problems with it. The FMS adjustable cable doesn't stretch and operates smoothly. The only thing is that you have to get under the car to make adjustments.
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