Car Dies!! ughh

Alright well i just replaced my head gaskets and i got it all back together today. I drove the car up to the auto parts store and it stalled out like three times within 2 minutes. i think i may have a vacuum leak but im not sure, the rpms also stay kinda high when i depress the clutch to shift gears. My boost guage says my vacuum is at 10, im not sure what it is suppose to be at. Also the car seems to idle fine so thats why im kinda unsure if its a vacuum leak or not. Any help would be great guys. Thanks

-Justin
 
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Oh and after i started if up the first time, there was a sound coming from the distributor. It almost sounded like a duck sqwauking? lol, and i could feel the vibration pretty clearly on the distributor everytime it made the noise. i went to take a video of it so i could post it up on here and then it stopped. Any ideas what that could have been?
 
Ok yea i double checked all the vacuum lines and everything seems to be ok, the car runs good and idles good but when i go to drive it it dies out of nowhere.

I pulled two codes. 1st one was a 511 which was a pcm code, which blows, but the 2nd one was a 111 which is a system pass, so i dont get it!
 
Alright i just took the car for a drive again after re timing it. It was a few degrees off. The car drives real good if im just cruisin along easy, but as soon as i hit the the throttle to about half the engine revs up good, no hesitation or pinging or anything, but as soon as I let off the gas the car just dies immediately. I think it migh be running way to rich bc at half throttle my air/fuel ratio guage goes to 10. I thought maybe as soon as i let off the gas it dumps a bunch of fuel in there and drowns it? Please guys i need some help lol! Maybe the maf or tps sensor?
 
Ok so i figured out what the noise was, the distributor was bad so i got a new one. fixed that problem. Also found a small vacuum leak, fixed that also. The car idles alot better now and still drives good, but it still DIES after i give it over half throttle going down the road!It just idles right down and shuts off. I have no idea what the problem is, me and my brother have adjusted the valves and done compression tests on every cylinder. Sooo does anybody know where i can get some good tuning software and a data logger for fairly cheap? Could it be a IAC problem after revving down?
 
If you changed the Distributor im assuming you got a NEW PIP (Magnetic pickup) inside the distributor. If not you should have if you were going threw the trouble of pulling it out. If that checks out then check the Module in front of the passenger side shock tower. Theres an aftermarket module thats supposed to be better then stock.

Chris
 
I was experiencing the same problem with my car too. It drove me nuts. I thought it was a vacuum leak so I triple checked everything there, but it didn't solve my prob. Then I put in a new distributor, but that didn't help either. I finally got around to adjusting my TPS voltage and that solved the mysterious dying issue.
 
Soo how do you check it? Just probe the back of it with a mm. And what should the voltage be at? And another question, when i pulled the timing chain off i noticed that it had a double roller timing chain with the option to advance or retard the cam/crank timing. But i didnt notice that at first, so when i put it back on i just put it back to stock timing. could this be a problem also if the car was tuned previous to that?
 
yes you can

First off, welcome back Oink! Haven't seen you around here for a long time.

Next, you can adjust the TPS voltage on our cars and it does sorta work but it doesn't last long. If you have the pre-94 intake & throttle body, you can loosen the TPS and rotate it to adjust the idle voltage to be 1.0v. On the 94-95 setup, there is no factory adjustment. The computer reads the TPS voltage at start up and treats it as if it was 1.0v. It does the math to compensate for the voltage difference.

Example: Let's say your TPS reads 0.94v at start up. The computer sees the 0.94v and sees that it needs to add 0.06v to get to 1.0v. So, you lightly press the gas, the TPS reads 1.07v. The computer adds 0.06v to get 1.13v, and uses that amount to determine spark, fuel, etc. You accelerate again, the TPS reads 1.5v. The computer adds and comes up with 1.56v. Etc, etc.

You can adjust the TPS on 94-95 cars, it involves slotting the TPS bolt holes so you can rotate the TPS like you can on pre-94 cars. But since the computer adjusts the voltage internally, it won't do much good. At most it might temporarily fix the problem.

I would test the TPS voltage anyway, if it's really far off of 1.0v or it's not a steady voltage, the TPS is failing and needs to be replaced.
 
Ok, so what you're saying is, the 94/95 computer will compensate the voltage for the 94/95 TPS, but not the Fox TPS? I mean, it's a really simple device the TPS, how much different can the Fox unit be than the 94/95?

I have read a few threads over the years with post wars going on about this very subject. I thought it was agreed that setting the voltage on our cars was useless. The computer uses whatever the voltage is at startup and makes it the baseline, kinda like Matt said above.