What a POS

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The numbers seem about right unfortunately. You will not get a decent sized cam even with a custom cam. I have a custom Buddy Rawls (comp cams) grind and it is still small. It's because of the big cubes and low compression. You can't go lumpy, it kills the engine, at least with fuel injection. You either have to put a blower or turbo on the sucker, change pistons or suck it up and like it until you can do either of the previously mentioned. I wish I had my cam card here I'd post it up. I go to the dyno next Thursday so I'll let you know what numbers i'm putting down. It's a Mustang dyno as well. I'm not guessing very high either maybe mid 3's. This year it will be crap or get off the pot for me. F3 blower or rip out the engine and put some dome tops in. Here's my combo to compare to yours.

Dart 408 Block
TFS R Heads CNC'd
TFS Box R Intake
Custom Cam


Where you going to dyno? The Mustang Shop?
 
By the way, you never answered. What is your total timing. If you're running 12 degrees of total timing, the car will be a pig. There's no reason to run such low timing. Especially at 8.5 to 1 or lower.

It was 12* initial (spout out) so what 30 some with the spout in?Someone else said i should be able to throw tons of timming in the car with such low compression.But when we burnt the chip to 12* timing it barly made any diffrence in power maybe 4 more horse and very little (about the same as HP gain did) in TQ. Thats where he said we can give it more timming but it's not gonna do any good or make a diffrence because of the comp.peace


john:p
 
My car has mechanical advance, and when i put everything together i set the base to 14, but i didn't even think to check total. I thought 14 put me at 36 total because i could swear i checked total once before and it was 36. Anyways he asked what total was and i told him i thought 36 so we checked and it was 42 total. He freaked out and said he couldn't believe it didn't ping. We dropped it down to 35 total which put me right at 12 initial.

Oh, and the difference between 42 total and 35 total was about 6hp to the good dropping it down, which shows that tons of timing isn't always a good thing especially without the compression to go with it.
 
I think TweekedGT hit it best. That cam has a TON of duration on it to keep that thing happy. IF you go just by lift, then yes it's tiny but most cams in that range run around a .220 duration. It's honestly more like a smaller chevy cam in there, and being a non hydraulic, you aren't going to see the crazy ramp rates others can offer. Your best bet is to build it to scream up top but that cam is not going to do that. It'll offer great low and midrange, which for the combo it seems it's doing.

Just throw boost at it and be done with it. That way you can keep your streetability and that cam would seem fairly happy.
 
Are you sure you're not looking at the advertised duration and confusing it with the .050 duration? 268 advertised is nothing...the E303 is 282 advertised and 220 @ .050, i'd hardly call this a lot of duration...that's down right pathetic for a 360ci engine with AFR 185s. It needs at least 240 @ .050 and 315ish advertised.
 
what do you guys think the bottle would do for me with this current set up? I'm gonna start piecing my turbo kit together this is going to be a long long build as for i'm unemployed. But my buddy has my old nitrious kit so maybe i can get it back from him for now?Another question will my current cam go good with a turbo?peace








john:p
 
Yeah i'd just swap the cam...you don't really even have to have a custom cam, just get a decent off the shelf cam that has some healthy lift and duration and it'll probably pick up 50hp.
 
Motor specs:1974 351w 40 over dished pistons (not sure of the CC) AFR 185 58cc heads lunati 499 lift cam flat tappet. 1.6 crane gold race roller rockers 42# injectors comp push rods accufab 75mm T.B trick flow R 75mm intake LMAF 90MM SCT chip BBK L/T's mac prochamber O/R mid pipe SLP loud mouth 2 cat back. I'm not sure of the comp ratio but the tunner was thinking it was about a 8 to 8.5-1 thats the whole reason i went with the 58cc heads to make up for the dished pistons to raise the comp. It was a mustang dyno my A/F was 14 (i think)? I'm so pissed and bummed i dont have a clue where the sheet is? I think it's in the truck so as soon as i find it i'll post it.What exactly do you mean by what did i use to tune the car with? I ended up with 12* (pill out) timming thats all it would take i guess from the low comp,it didnt ping or anything but the tuner said it wouldnt take anymore even with more oct fuel due to my comp. Yeah it is low! I dont know if i'm thinking wrong on this thought? But (for example) evilssp's car with a 347 351w heads his cam and carb made high 3's and 400 TQ at the wheels! So his engine is a 347cubic in correct? Well mine is a 351 40 over so what 359 360 cubic inch? So well i have more cubes so i should make as much if not a touch more should of i?They say "theres no replacement for displacement" peace john:p


Dished pistons are youre problem. You used pistons intended to be in a boosted engine, and you expect to have a higher compression ratio with a 58cc head. Sorry not gonna make up that much. Sit a S/C on it and then youll see what it can make. You need flat tops or domed for N/A power. If youre really around 8-8.5 you can run a good amount of boost. 15lbs or so no problem on street car. Car should lay down 400+ like that depending on tune, and supporting parts.
 
Are you sure you're not looking at the advertised duration and confusing it with the .050 duration? 268 advertised is nothing...the E303 is 282 advertised and 220 @ .050, i'd hardly call this a lot of duration...that's down right pathetic for a 360ci engine with AFR 185s. It needs at least 240 @ .050 and 315ish advertised.

I didnt see the cam specs before posting, but this guy is right. That cam is way too small for the cubes. A better cam will help a lot, but youre still on the low end with compression.
 
My car has mechanical advance, and when i put everything together i set the base to 14, but i didn't even think to check total. I thought 14 put me at 36 total because i could swear i checked total once before and it was 36. Anyways he asked what total was and i told him i thought 36 so we checked and it was 42 total. He freaked out and said he couldn't believe it didn't ping. We dropped it down to 35 total which put me right at 12 initial.

Oh, and the difference between 42 total and 35 total was about 6hp to the good dropping it down, which shows that tons of timing isn't always a good thing especially without the compression to go with it.

So now what you need to do is redo the mechanical advance so it is limited to 18* rather than 23* and then bump the initial up 5* for 17* initial 18* in dist for a total of 35 and see how throttle responce is then.
I have only 12* mech and 22* initial and soon to be 10* mech and 24*
 
Yeah i'd just swap the cam...you don't really even have to have a custom cam, just get a decent off the shelf cam that has some healthy lift and duration and it'll probably pick up 50hp.

f nitrous and the turbo buy the righ cam and you will like the car.

what do you guys think the bottle would do for me with this current set up? I'm gonna start piecing my turbo kit together this is going to be a long long build as for i'm unemployed. But my buddy has my old nitrious kit so maybe i can get it back from him for now?Another question will my current cam go good with a turbo?peace


john:p


custom cam swap + unemployment = ~$300 and doable

turbo kit/supercharger/tune/fuel upgrades + unemployment = sleeping in a cardboard box


your dished pistons are hurting your n/a performance, but the right cam will really wake your motor up and in the very least put a smile on your face until you get a steady job again and make the money needed to slap a turbo or s/c on there, myself, S&B and 85_SS_302 are all leading you in the right (most economical) direction for the time being (and given your circumstances), cam swap FTW
 
So now what you need to do is redo the mechanical advance so it is limited to 18* rather than 23* and then bump the initial up 5* for 17* initial 18* in dist for a total of 35 and see how throttle responce is then.
I have only 12* mech and 22* initial and soon to be 10* mech and 24*


Yeah i honestly think i'm leaving a little on the table because of the advance thing. I need to get the kit to adjust it but i don't have it. I'm gonna be switching intakes and stepping up to a 700 or 750 and then i'll get the advance kit and do it all at once.