Just failed smog.. help please

dubbsix

Member
Oct 18, 2006
347
2
19
Katy,TX
My 94GT just failed smog TWICE!. The my knowledge the only mods to the car are:
bbK equal headers with smog and carb number
bbk x pipe with cats

THE CAR WILL PASS THE 15MPH TEST, BUT FAILS THE 25MPH test all the time.

I just performed a fresh tune up including plugs, wires and setting timing at 10* btdc. According to the read out:

My measured HC(PPM) was .59(max is.46) and my CO% was .12 where the max is .46.

So basically my HC's are high and my CO's are way low. The tech said it could be vac leaks causing me to fail. I went home and pulled codes and car checked out fine. I know that wont tell me if there are vac leaks though.

Are there any vac lines that are directly related to emissions that i should check?
 
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High hydrocarbons usually means the engine is running rich. As part of this full tuneup, did you change the oil and air filter? New oil can bring hc's down. Do they test for NOx there? If not, bumping the timing might help you out. You're very close. It shouldn't take much to pass. I'd even suspect one of those guaranteed to pass magic liquids would get you down enough.
 
How to pass emissions testing:

High NO - high combustion temps - retard timing, check EGR for operation.
High CO – Rich condition - fuel pressure too high, check O2 sensors, replace air filter, Clean MAF element.
High HC – Lean misfire, vacuum leak, common misfire due to worn or weak ignition system components. On rare occasions, an overly rich mixture may be the cause. Do the ethanol/E85 fill up as suggested.
High CO & HC - Cat converters, smog pump, and smog pump controls.

How to pass emissions testing:

1.) Make sure all the emissions gear the car was made with is present and connected up properly. That includes a working smog pump and cats.

2.) Make sure that you have fresh tune up with spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel & air filters. An oil & filter change is a good idea while you are at it.

3.) Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

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If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

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89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

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Do not jumper anything to the single black connector. It is the power for the under the hood light. It is in another bundle of wires near the windshield wiper.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is less than $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-7208-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx– It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.


4.) Post the codes and get help to fix them. Don’t try to pass with codes not fixed. Clearing the computer just temporarily removes them from memory, it doesn’t fix the problem that caused the code to be set.

5.) Be sure to do the testing on a hot engine. Drive for 15-20 minutes prior to taking the test to get operating temps up into the normal range. Do not shut off the engine while waiting for your turn on the test machine. An engine up to full operating temperature puts out fewer emissions.
 
High hydrocarbons usually means the engine is running rich. As part of this full tuneup, did you change the oil and air filter? New oil can bring hc's down. Do they test for NOx there? If not, bumping the timing might help you out. You're very close. It shouldn't take much to pass. I'd even suspect one of those guaranteed to pass magic liquids would get you down enough.

Yea the car is running very rich. I did just put fresh oil and air filter on the car prior to tune. I even swapped out new parts to see if they would help. Today I put on new:

igniton coil
fuel pressure regulator
Fixed leaky vac hose

and the car still is hard to start and runs rich. I am starting to suspect a patch of bad plugs, or crappy wires from autozone.
 
How to pass emissions testing:

High NO - high combustion temps - retard timing, check EGR for operation.
High CO – Rich condition - fuel pressure too high, check O2 sensors, replace air filter, Clean MAF element.
High HC – Lean misfire, vacuum leak, common misfire due to worn or weak ignition system components. On rare occasions, an overly rich mixture may be the cause. Do the ethanol/E85 fill up as suggested.
High CO & HC - Cat converters, smog pump, and smog pump controls.

How to pass emissions testing:

1.) Make sure all the emissions gear the car was made with is present and connected up properly. That includes a working smog pump and cats.

2.) Make sure that you have fresh tune up with spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel & air filters. An oil & filter change is a good idea while you are at it.

3.) Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

B.jpg


F.jpg


If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

attachment.php


89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

attachment.php


Do not jumper anything to the single black connector. It is the power for the under the hood light. It is in another bundle of wires near the windshield wiper.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is less than $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-7208-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx– It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.


4.) Post the codes and get help to fix them. Don’t try to pass with codes not fixed. Clearing the computer just temporarily removes them from memory, it doesn’t fix the problem that caused the code to be set.

5.) Be sure to do the testing on a hot engine. Drive for 15-20 minutes prior to taking the test to get operating temps up into the normal range. Do not shut off the engine while waiting for your turn on the test machine. An engine up to full operating temperature puts out fewer emissions.

No codes present. I did fix a rather leaky vac line but it has no impact on the cars ability to start without cranking a few times, or seeming to run rich now.. even though the tests says its lean.
 
I just took a video of my engine running with a fuel pressure guide connected and I noticed that while the car is on the fuel pressure doesnt go beyond 32psi whether its idling, or at WOT. When i let go of the throttle blade it drops down to 30psi and then finally settles at 32psi again.

And my pump is loud. I get a constant Humming sound from the pump while the car is on. Today I had two instances where the car cut off on me. I thought it was me not giving it enough gas while in reverse but now i think it just died!

I just read that a weak fuel pump can lead to a lean misfire... could this be my hard start and idling cause?
 
The fuel pressure is supposed to be checked with the vacuum line disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator and the vacuum line capped. The port that the vacuum line connected to is to be open and vent to the atmosphere.

Vacuum applied to the fuel pressure regulator decreases the fuel pressure. Due to the varying amounts of vacuum at idle, you could get a range of different readings. This is why the fuel pressure is always measured with the vacuum disconnected. With it disconnected, you should see 38-40 PSI at idle or with the engine off, key on.


Here’s the theory why it works that way:

The spec is that the fuel pressure decreases roughly 1 PSI for 2 inches of vacuum measured at the fuel pump vacuum port. Fuel pressure will increase in supercharged or turbocharged engines by 1 PSI for each 1 PSI above atmospheric pressure measured at the fuel pump vacuum port.

Vacuum inside the intake manifold sucks the pressurized fuel out of the injectors, increasing the effective flow rate of the injectors. Decreasing the fuel pressure helps maintain the calibrated flow rate of the injector. In like manner, pressurizing the intake manifold by a supercharger or turbocharger decreases the effective flow rate. However, the same manifold pressure applied to the fuel pressure regulator vacuum port increases the fuel pressure. This helps maintain calibrated flow rate of the injector.
 
Oh! Okay thank you for showing me how to check it correctly. To double check the ignition system i pulled out the plugs and verified the firinig order on the cap. I found that one spark plug was not in all the way and was loose in the chamber. i also had one plug mysteriously gapped at .35, while the others were .052.

I re-gapped all of the AP25 plugs to .055 and went for a test drive. The exhaust doesnt smell as rich and it definitely feels stronger. It still shakes at idle, but I think the previous owner blew the motor mounts because i get a Thud everytime i get on it and shift.

Could a loose spark plug cause the high HC problem?
 
I'd even suspect one of those guaranteed to pass magic liquids would get you down enough.

I agree. My father's '93 Grand Marquis has a 5.0 and failed. We changed the air filter and put some of that real thick oil additive in it that advertises to get you through inspection & it worked. They tried hard enough to fail it again but it passed.

Another thing to try is to pull out the air filter right before you go into the inspection line. I've heard that can help too, BUT I wouldn't drive very far without the filter. Take it out just before getting in line & put it back immediately after. *Try at your own risk* - Legal disclaimer. :D