66 Coupe 302 vs 351W

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I run 275/40/17's on 17x9.5's in the rear, stock leaf settings. Sure its a lot easier to go fast with big tires on the back, its more impressive when you go fast with smaller stuff IMO.

I was never able to run my 275 40 17 drag radials on 17x8 wheels on the street. They worked ok for the strip but one side protruded past the wheel lip. Since I put the new rear suspension in I was able to fix my slight centering problem so I might actually be to run a 275 full time now. I haven't had time to test fitted the drag radials in the last few weeks...but maybe I'll slap them on this weekend and see ;)
 
I was never able to run my 275 40 17 drag radials on 17x8 wheels on the street. They worked ok for the strip but one side protruded past the wheel lip. Since I put the new rear suspension in I was able to fix my slight centering problem so I might actually be to run a 275 full time now. I haven't had time to test fitted the drag radials in the last few weeks...but maybe I'll slap them on this weekend and see ;)


Ya, mine are even on both sides, cant go any wider thats for sure. Pretty close to the leafs, and even to the outside. Those Hoosier Drag radials stick good though. I'm going to try them once at the strip just to see what they will do.
 
I have 245/45R/17 on my '66 coupe with no modifications at all. Didn't even have to roll the lip. Only mod is the switch to a versailles rear-end. With some spacers I could easily get another inch wider on the wheel with no issues at all.

Sounds right, and as long as you're clearing the springs and inner house, the narrower Versailles rear will help you with outer lip clearance.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I'm probably going with struts up front and modifying the shock towers to get extra clearance if I go with the 351W. For rear tires, the guy working on the car says I'll be able to get a 10" tire in there. Issue is though, I've already got another car that I can't put the power down (no traction) in 1st, marginal in 2nd. How effective are Cal-Tracs as I was going to use those with the leaf spring setup.

Maybe I should go with the 347, small hit of nitrous, and set it up more for road racing. And yes, I was planning on overdrive setup.

Well, for now, plenty of time to consider my options.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I'm probably going with struts up front and modifying the shock towers to get extra clearance if I go with the 351W. For rear tires, the guy working on the car says I'll be able to get a 10" tire in there. Issue is though, I've already got another car that I can't put the power down (no traction) in 1st, marginal in 2nd. How effective are Cal-Tracs as I was going to use those with the leaf spring setup.

Maybe I should go with the 347, small hit of nitrous, and set it up more for road racing. And yes, I was planning on overdrive setup.

Well, for now, plenty of time to consider my options.


Caltracs work great IMO. Just gotta have a loose front setup with some travel in it.

Thats what I'm thinking about doing is the Struts in the front, I need a little more travel with lighter springs. The 6 cylinder ones keep the front too high. Cutting them gets it down more, gain travel but slows the rise of the front too much for me. Adjustable strut front is the ticket I think for a drag setup. Lots and Lots of spring options that way.
 
I'm probably going with struts up front and modifying the shock towers to get extra clearance if I go with the 351W.

Waste of money, and a lot of money it will be. The 351W will bolt right in there, just make sure you use headers made for the conversion, which are available.

Issue is though, I've already got another car that I can't put the power down (no traction) in 1st, marginal in 2nd. How effective are Cal-Tracs as I was going to use those with the leaf spring setup.

Traction Masters™, at less than half the price, will eliminate wheel hop just as well. They were factory equipment in the 66 GT350, and work so well you might not even bother with a locking diff. Get the real TM, not the cheaper fakes. The fakes only save you a few bucks and they're crap.

Getting actual traction with both tires really makes even ordinary width rear tires very effective.
 
There is no way I could fit 255 under my 66 without some major modding. That is strange?



yea that is strange, you should see if your mustang had any major body work done to it to hide a collision.

but either way, i fit 295/50/15s on the back of my 65, and aside from a little tire rub it fit fine. if i were to get the ideal tire for my car it would most likely be a 275/40/16 or 17. and that will most definatly fit, with the right compound i don't know why that wouldn't hook on my 392w. by the way to the original poster, go with the 351 stroker, more cubes.
 
I'm having my 66 Coupe, 289, 4v, auto, pony interior car restored. I'm considering my options for an engine. A stroker 302 (347) or a stroker 351W. What are the pros-cons of going with the 351W?

I always read about the stroker 302's and I can't comprehend why everyone wants to spend so much money to make a 302 bigger when it will still be smaller than a stock 351W. Why build a 347 from a 302 when you can spend the money you would have spent on stroking the 302 on good heads or intake or carb, or all of the above for the 351. Now I understand stroking the 351 due to engine compartment constraints, but a 351W will fit in any early mustang without changing a thing. The 351 is more stout all around and has better connecting rod geometry. I'd leave a 302 alone and if you want more displacement, just go right to the 351W. If you want more then go ahead a stroke the 351W.
 
I'm having my 66 Coupe, 289, 4v, auto, pony interior car restored. I'm considering my options for an engine. A stroker 302 (347) or a stroker 351W. What are the pros-cons of going with the 351W?

If I did the 351W stroker, I'd probably keep it under 400ci, around 383ci, or so. Mostly, I'm concerned with handling. Will the added weight be an issue even if I go with alumunum heads, to keep weight down? What heads would you recommend with the 351W? Will the frame handle the extra torque from this engine? Mileage?

My goal is for a nice drive with a good bump in power. Not a daily driver but definately to be driven.

i did a little internet searching and don't take this for truth, but from what i read it's about less than 100 lbs. difference between the blocks + or - 15-20 lbs. for different years etc. so if you are going to use aluminum heads, the weight difference will be quite small.

in my 392w i get about 7 to 8 mpg highway, but thats high RPM with the current C4 transmission. with an overdrive gear i can see double digets highway easy. not that 10 is amazing lol.

i can give you a con, i had to replace my hood because the engine would not fit under. I'm sure you can get drop engine mounts. but i wanted to have enough clearance to go over a speed bump. plus i've always liked a cowl induction hood.

depending on how much you stroke it you're going to have to deal with more power. and with that transmissions come into question just make sure your transmission can hold up to that amount of power.


i only typed so much because i went the 351 route and well.. i am so happy!! and all NA, it is just a blast to drive. sure it smokes tires.. isn't that the point? : ).

so take this for what it is, a happy 351w stroker owner, and internet serches and opinion. : ) check it out for yourself. i say 351. hands down : ).
 
Yep. A buddy has a 65 with a 351W and it has the stock hood. The previous poster that needed a new hood has a performer rpm air gar intake which sits kind of tall. It also depends what kind of air cleaner you have. There are low profile air cleaners that will help and that will still flow plenty good. I used to have acar that I had an Edelbrock Pro Flow air cleaner like the picture below. It provides good hood clearance and still flows plenty.
 

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