put a 73mm c&l mass air meter on about a week ago and now my car is running terrible. i have a cervini's ram-air intake. called c&l yesterday and they said the ram air was the problem so imounted the mass air meter directly to the inlet pipe, but its still running rough and bucks when driving. i was thinking about making my own inlet out of 3" exhaust pipe so i can move the mass air meter away from the filter. let me know what you think and what you would do.
mass air problems
- Thread starter nyr923
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
strtrcr50
New Member
Cheap and dirty fix - put a piece of window screen directly in front of the MAF. The original 55 MM MAFs had one secured in place by a humongous snap ring. It's purpose supposedly was to straighten out the airflow entering the MAF. If you still have the original 55 MM MAF, use the screen from it.
i would throw out the c&l meter and get a pro-m.I have an 80mm meter that when i first started the motor and dyno tuned it would not give me a good air/fuel curve. I had jpc do the tunning and they are sponsored by c&l and the threw it out and put a used pro-m meter i havent had a problem since. i would send it back and by a pro-m.same price basically.
strtrcr50
New Member
right now its about 2 inches away from the filter, i'm going to try to move it at least 6 inches away.
strtrcr50
New Member
93gtmustang
5 Year Member
- Oct 21, 2006
- 409
- 15
- 29
By some chance, I talked to the president of the company when I called C&L.
He said, that the C&L MAF meters for Fox Mustangs are calibrated to work with the stock air box. They could not get any gains with a conical filter.
My car had a conical filter in the engine bay when I bought my car and it didn't run well.
I bought a stock air box with a K&N filter and it runs fine now.
The link below is what the set up should look like.
http://cnlperformance.com/images/76installed.jpg
Did you get the right calibration tube for your injectors?
He said, that the C&L MAF meters for Fox Mustangs are calibrated to work with the stock air box. They could not get any gains with a conical filter.
My car had a conical filter in the engine bay when I bought my car and it didn't run well.
I bought a stock air box with a K&N filter and it runs fine now.
The link below is what the set up should look like.
http://cnlperformance.com/images/76installed.jpg
Did you get the right calibration tube for your injectors?
MattSVTContour
Member
Ditto everything he said (including calling C&L and talking to the pres.
) I've been very happy with my C&L meter.Ditto everything he said (including calling C&L and talking to the pres.
if i didnt already have the cervini's ram air i would just put the stock air box or my cold air back on but i want to try and keep the ram air.
Turd Tops
New Member
I had a c&l on my old 90 with that garbage ass march ram air kit. It would run rich and and spark knock with anything less the 93 octane and in the winter it would spark knock all the time. After some playing around i used the stock air box with just the scoop for the ram air and it helped alot in the summer but it would always spark knock in the winter. A friend of mine That use to ru NMRA Factory stock class told me a little trick he used to do when he would steet race. He moved my air temp sensor off the intake and installed it on my stock air box. We also changed plugs, wires, cap and rotor and left the timing where it was. After that i never had a spark knock problem again. His thinking was now the computer can see the true air temp coming in from the air cleaner and not from the hot lower intake. I can not and will not say thats what fixed my problem but i never had a problem after that. Also i put 80,000 miles on that engine with no problems.
Here's a pic of what we did.
Here's a pic of what we did.
strtrcr50
New Member
i finally got a chance to put the new mass air on and try clocking it. i turned it 90 degrees, started it up and it ran just like it did with the stock mass air if not better. thanks for all the help.
IIRC,
The ecu PULLS timing with higher ACT temps....
Lower ACT temps would have meant more timing....
Also, the stock computer is calibrated with the stock ACT location in mind.
Moving it means the stock tune is no longer as 'correct' for lack of a better word.
Not sure what fixed your problem, but I'm hesitant to think it was moving the ACT...
I too have read and heard that moving the act does nothing since the computer is tuned to work with in in the intake, the only, or main reason people move them is so they can install an intake that is not set up for an act sensor.
Similar threads
