Whats the deal with this?
A turbo kit for 2k???
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/On-3...c0.m245&_trkparms=72:1171|65:12|39:1|240:1318
A turbo kit for 2k???http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/On-3...c0.m245&_trkparms=72:1171|65:12|39:1|240:1318
Cheap Turbo kit on ebay...
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joshjwc9
Active Member
That seems legit. The only difference really needed is fuel, plugs and a very good tune. Don't forget you would need a Tubular K, A Arms and Coilovers at the same time.
I'd like to see some results from a real world car, not their suggested one. I would probably run about 7 pounds with a good tune. I could live with 350hp and AC & PS.
I'd like to see some results from a real world car, not their suggested one. I would probably run about 7 pounds with a good tune. I could live with 350hp and AC & PS.
four six
Member
Additional parts to complete the install:
-K-member kit Granatelli kit $650 or QA1 Pro-active Kit $1089
Both include k-member, Tubular A-arms, and Coil-over kit. The QA1 also includes QA1 billet coilover fully adjustable strut and Caster/Camber plates
-On 3 Performance MAF kit (calibrated to specific injector size) $204
-Injectors
-SVT Focus Fuel Pump $179
-Custom SCT Turbo Tune Chip $325, multiple tune flip chips available, contact us
-You will want to get a tune after the install, Dynotunemotorsports.com is our Tuner
-K-member kit Granatelli kit $650 or QA1 Pro-active Kit $1089
Both include k-member, Tubular A-arms, and Coil-over kit. The QA1 also includes QA1 billet coilover fully adjustable strut and Caster/Camber plates
-On 3 Performance MAF kit (calibrated to specific injector size) $204
-Injectors
-SVT Focus Fuel Pump $179
-Custom SCT Turbo Tune Chip $325, multiple tune flip chips available, contact us
-You will want to get a tune after the install, Dynotunemotorsports.com is our Tuner
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
Isn't this the kit that the modular section of the turboforums.com is in heat about particularly about Chinese metal quality ect.?
DevilGT
New Member
Not sure why that would be an issue? Chinese steel is usually of a higher grade/quality than the US Steel.
I wonder if you need coil overs etc, or if just switching to a tubular K member is enough? I dont want to mess with my front suspension. I like what I have already.
It definitely seems interesting... they might even consider a group purchase at an even lower price... I wish we could get a review from someone whos installed one.
D
It definitely seems interesting... they might even consider a group purchase at an even lower price... I wish we could get a review from someone whos installed one.
D
DevilGT
New Member
joshjwc9
Active Member
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
People were saying that the hotside would just crack apartNot sure why that would be an issue? Chinese steel is usually of a higher grade/quality than the US Steel.
I see, so its just a matter of them choosing to use inferior steel in their choice for the kit, not the fact that its made in China that's the problem.
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
Correct, I didn't mean to insinuate that Chinese = fail. Rather that it's insanely cheap to get sub-par Chinese 304 SS used for turbo headers and hot sides from China - and this would be a case of that. I can find the thread for ya.
Edit:
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=121437.0
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=122296.0
Read through later pages to get an idea here. As hard as headers and other parts are to install on a modular, i'd prefer not having to replace them.
Heard back from the seller... you have to get the tubular A arms and coilovers as well as the tubular K member. That brings the price of the kit way up.
I cant be bothered to re-fo my front suspension AGAIN, so I'm out on this one. Oh well.
I cant be bothered to re-fo my front suspension AGAIN, so I'm out on this one. Oh well.
I would be warry of the turbo. Most of the cheap turbos on ebay have VERY VERY poor quality standards. The 57 trim T04E's you see for 100-400$ are especially bad. Apparently, the oil passages are often not drilled correctly and the turbo will eat it's self within minutes of installation... along with plenty of other problems. I even saw a situation where the compressor housing was 2 seperate halves 'GLUED' together and when it saw boost, it just fell apart. If you can confirm that the turbo is a genuine master craft made in brazil (or wherever they make the real ones), then it would be worth while.
Beleive me, I'm very very tempted to get a cheap turbo from ebay for my 2.3. I'm at the absolute limit of my turbo with exhaust backpressure through the roof and IAT temps way up, but I'm not going to waste my money on cheap new ebay turbo's which seem to have a 50% or higher failure rate.
Maybe buy a proper T4 from turbonetics or precision and you could have a nice setup with this piping kit.
Edit: Once last point....
Beleive me, I'm very very tempted to get a cheap turbo from ebay for my 2.3. I'm at the absolute limit of my turbo with exhaust backpressure through the roof and IAT temps way up, but I'm not going to waste my money on cheap new ebay turbo's which seem to have a 50% or higher failure rate.
Maybe buy a proper T4 from turbonetics or precision and you could have a nice setup with this piping kit.
Edit: Once last point....
Not a chance can you double your power at 8psi. If you have an extremely efficient intercooler and plenty of octane, you 'might' be able to double the power with 15psi. Sorry, but it is based on airflow. Naturally aspirated, you are sucking in the 14.7psi of atmosheric pressure. Unless you make airflow improvements, you'll need 14.7psi ABOVE atmosheric to double the power, and that's with an amazing intercooler and plenty of octane.
Turbos really do make high numbers with low boost because they are efficient. Guys on here were making about 400rwhp with 5 PSI turbo setups.
BTW You dont have 15PSI differential pressure from the air filter to motor. Atmosphere is 15 PSI above perfect vacuum, your engine doesnt pull anything like that strong a vacuum, so your differential pressure is very much lower than 15PSI.
I'm going to have to continue to disagree strongly with you. Anyone that can make 400rwhp with 5psi would clearly need some airflow mods, like a cam and/or ported heads.
Have you ever seen a vacuum gauge on an engine before? When you give it full throttle, the pressure in the intake manifold does infact go to pretty much atmospheric (0"Hg). At least it much less than 1" Hg. That doesn't mean the cylinders are filling to atmospheric pressure on each intake cycle, due to valve timing and the major restrictions at the valves and in the head, but the engine does have atmospheric pressure to draw from. On a boosted engine, you are simply give the engine a higher pressure source to draw from, but the volumetric efficiency does NOT change. You still have the same restrictions in the head and at the valves.
Yes, turbos are efficient, but they do not change the volumetric efficiency of the engine. While turbos are much more efficient than other superchargers, they still add head to the air charge when it is compressed. The best you can do is cool that air to near ambient, which is still higher than a comparable NA engine.
As great as it would be to use your logic, it is flawed. If the stock 4.6 makes ~17 hp per psi of atmoshere (260hp/14.7 psi), then you can say at 5psi, it may make 5*17 = 85hp more than stock... so 345 at the crank. If you were starting with some mild mods, making 330 hp at the crank NA (easy enough, only around 280rwhp), then your multiplier would be 22hp per psi. So the same 5psi would make 5*22=110hp more than 330, so around 440hp. That setup would be good for nearly 400 at the wheels like you were talking about... but becuase of the additional airflow mods. Same engine, but at 10psi... 10*22=220 hp more, so 550hp at the crank. This kind of calculation isn't perfect and your actual results will be LOWER due to heat and insufficient octane/too safe tune, but it gives you an idea how this works.
Have you ever seen a vacuum gauge on an engine before? When you give it full throttle, the pressure in the intake manifold does infact go to pretty much atmospheric (0"Hg). At least it much less than 1" Hg. That doesn't mean the cylinders are filling to atmospheric pressure on each intake cycle, due to valve timing and the major restrictions at the valves and in the head, but the engine does have atmospheric pressure to draw from. On a boosted engine, you are simply give the engine a higher pressure source to draw from, but the volumetric efficiency does NOT change. You still have the same restrictions in the head and at the valves.
Yes, turbos are efficient, but they do not change the volumetric efficiency of the engine. While turbos are much more efficient than other superchargers, they still add head to the air charge when it is compressed. The best you can do is cool that air to near ambient, which is still higher than a comparable NA engine.
As great as it would be to use your logic, it is flawed. If the stock 4.6 makes ~17 hp per psi of atmoshere (260hp/14.7 psi), then you can say at 5psi, it may make 5*17 = 85hp more than stock... so 345 at the crank. If you were starting with some mild mods, making 330 hp at the crank NA (easy enough, only around 280rwhp), then your multiplier would be 22hp per psi. So the same 5psi would make 5*22=110hp more than 330, so around 440hp. That setup would be good for nearly 400 at the wheels like you were talking about... but becuase of the additional airflow mods. Same engine, but at 10psi... 10*22=220 hp more, so 550hp at the crank. This kind of calculation isn't perfect and your actual results will be LOWER due to heat and insufficient octane/too safe tune, but it gives you an idea how this works.
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