After my car's been driven for awhile, like a full day, it starts to run kinda of rough on starts. It'll take awhile to start at times, but others will start right up. It'll also stall out at times, but others idle flawlessly. Another problem it seems to have is what sounds like a misfire if I'm idling and I just spike the gas while sitting there. Things that have been replaced since owning the car are cap/rotor, ignition coil, O2 sensors, and that's really all that would make any kind of difference I believe. Any suggestions? Would this be a distributor related problem, like maybe the stator is getting too hot or something??
Stalling/not running right when hot
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earleys94gt
Active Member
Did you change the plugs and wires too? If not, that might be the issue.
If so, you may have a dirty MAF. You can do a search for how to clean it.
If so, you may have a dirty MAF. You can do a search for how to clean it.
Plugs and wires weren't replaced, planned on doing that relatively soon so I guess I'll find out if that helps. As for the MAF, it was cleaned right after buying the car, solving a really bad rough running issue, and I also cleaned it a week ago just to make damn sure it was good, and it was flawless when I pulled out the sensor. Also, I cleaned the IAC, and set my base idle - although I havn't checked if the TPS needs adjustment. I planned on doing plugs and wires ASAP though, so hopefully that'll negate the problem and save me from spending cash on a distributor. Thanks for the suggestions.
desertcox05
New Member
sounds like the pip inside of the dizzy. if you have skills you can replace the pip for @ $20 otherwise about $120 for a remanned dizzy with a warrenty (this is the way I went because I wanted the warrenty).
Appreciate the suggestion, I was curious if it was the PIP. I'd prefer to replace the entire dizzy, however how do I do it without affecting timing? Or do I have to set my timing afterwards again?
If you figure out what the problem is please let me know. Mine's been doing what sounds like the same thing for about 2-3 years now. I've replaced multiple things such as the ignition coil, ignition module, distributor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, MAF, and timing chain. I even took it to the dealer and they couldn't get it to act up, figures. The only thing that seemed to help was when I replaced the ignition coil it seemed to stop the problem for about 6 months or so. So maybe something is making my coil go bad. I'm not sure. Anyways, good luck and if you figure it out please let me know.
I'll be sure and shoot you a PM after I try some things with it. I'd like to try and avoid just throwing parts at the problem trying to solve it, so it may take a little while. By any chance have you tried changing spark plugs? Plugs and wires are the only thing I havn't done tune-up wise, so I'm going to try that ASAP, before the dizzy.
HISSIN, got it - thanks.
Well at least that means I can probably cross that off things that might fix my/our problem.
To anyone that's checking up, what's involved in swapping out JUST the PIP, and not the full dizzy? Does it still require timing adjustment afterwards?
You have to take the dizzy apart to change the PIP, so yes. The PIP is the plastic sensor at the bottom of the dizzy under the cap & rotor. You have to remove the gear on the bottom of the dizzy so you can remove the shaft and then you can replace the PIP. You can do it yourself, but you have to have the right tools so you don't damage the dizzy shaft. You either need to have the gear pressed off, or you can CAREFULLY use a brass hammer and a vice to pound the gear off.
Damn, it definitely sounds like if I were to try that, I'd end up buying a new dizzy anyway.
Might as well just spring for the remanned one, and enjoy my one year warranty. 
Do I need to make any timing marks prior to taking the dizzy out, or is the one on the balancer good?
The balancer turns twice around while the dizzy only turns once around, so you definitely want to mark the dizzy. Mark where the rotor in the dizzy points to when you pull the dizzy itself. This will get you close to your current timing. It just makes life easier when you re-time the car with the new dizzy.
Replacing the PIP yourself isn't too bad, I did it myself with a brass hammer and a vice. But you do have to be careful.
Replacing the PIP yourself isn't too bad, I did it myself with a brass hammer and a vice. But you do have to be careful.
Thanks a lot Chythar.
I was at the drag strip tonight and noticed the more I ran my car, the more I had to work with the idle after start-up, so I'm definitely looking at replacing that dizzy pretty soon. A friend of mine says he may have a 5.0 dizzy in his shed, which would be ideal. I appreciate all the info though! 
desertcox05
New Member
That definitely changes things, as he's stricly only owned foxes, and a couple 4.6's... Thanks, guess I'll be heading to Advance to pick up a reman one pretty soon.
desertcox05
New Member
Is the ignition module different than the coil? Because the coils on the driver's side of the distributor... What's the module?
Also, I went ahead and just ordered a Summit dizzy as a replacement, it'll be here tomorrow and I'll put it in probably Sunday, so I'll let you guys know if that solves the problem I'm having.That shouldn't need replacing though, correct? So the dizzy I bought should be able to just be dropped right in?
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