Fender CAI vs Engine CAI

southfillyboy

Member
Aug 13, 2008
38
0
6
Is the fenderwell intake really that much better than one that sits in the engine. Kenne Bell says that engine ones can cause damage to the engine. Got to get a new intake so I don't know which one to get.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


CAI kits really don't allow the engine to draw "cooler air". The air temp difference in the fender well vs. the engine bay is negligible. CAI kits really just less-restrictive intakes over stock.
 
I've never heard of the engine bay ones causing damage to the engine. Did they explain why?

The fenderwell one would draw cooler air is the only advantage I'd see.

They said that fenderwells bring in 70F air while engine bay ones get around 200F air. I wonder if it really matters that much because they think adding headers is negligable powerwise.
 
I disagree. The temp under the hood from the engine and hedders has got to be warmer than the air coming into the fender well.

True, but once the car is moving, the air intake temps won't be much different. I would think the rai(engine bay style intake) would actually be better at the track because you can pull the drivers side headlight and force in the cooler air right in front of the filter.
 
It is a lot easier to get the filter on and off for cleaning if it is in the engine bay vs. in the fender but other than that I like the fender models. They will draw cooler air compared to the engine bay models and they look a lot better IMO.
 
I disagree. The temp under the hood from the engine and hedders has got to be warmer than the air coming into the fender well.

Maybe if the car was sitting still, but once its moving, you get similar air flow through both the engine bay and in the fender well. Also keep in mind that the majority of fender-well systems (if not all) have that hard 75-90 degree bend leading into the fender which would cause more restriction.
 
Guess I'm leaning towards the engine bay setup. The filter is like a foot long and with almost a 90 degree turn I have no idea how 2 get that in there. I also have a cowl hood so that might help with engine bay temperatures.
 
Heres a bit of info, take it as you will.

My last car was a 92 fox with a 351 high compression engine. It had an afm pms on it with the iat sensor re located to the c&l intake tube.

When I had the stock box (works just like a fenderwell cai kit, sucks air from fender) the avg intake temps were 75-80 (on a 70 degree day).

I later changed the upper elbow to one that fit under a stock hood and had to go back with a filter on the end of the maf b/c the angle was too much to fit it all back in right. My temps went to 120-130 at BEST. Got much hotter if I were in traffic while the factory box kept it cool at most all times.

Thats just my experience. Engine bay filters just offer too many oppurtunities to f chit up. Fan wash, more dirt/grease and heat are the obvious culprits.
 
As far as I'm concerned, Kenne Bell's claim that engine bay intakes are dangerous is BS. I've logged my IATs with a JLT ram air intake, which draws air from the factory location inside the engine bay, and the temps were practically identical to ambient. I did use the heat shield that came with the kit, so that might have something to do with it. It might be true that an engine bay intake without a heat shield could ingest hot air, but I still doubt it, especially if the car is moving.
 
Let me give my information I looked into before I bought my Steeda CAI which is pretty much a Ram Air Intake.

I was worried about the IAT sensor and its relocation to the bracket which the filter attaches.

I did the install of the Steeda CAI and looked at the IAT reading in my Diablo a total of 6 times.

First idle stock airbox, then cruising at 55.

Then Steeda CAI without heat shield at idle, then cruising at 55.

And then the Steeda CAI with heat shield, then at 55.

This was in mild Florida evening weather, about 80 degrees and average humidity.

First run was at about 100ish degrees and then roughly 125ish if I remember correctly.
Second run was at roughly 140, then 145ish.
Final run was 110ish and then 115ish.

The stock airbox were also checked on a cold engine as well.

I would think that this difference is negligible, especially between Ram Intakes and true Cold Air Intakes.

Also, being in FL, I drive in plenty of rain and do not need the filter to get wet, or other crap to risking going in it.

I felt the difference when installing the CAI, but it was negligible too, although my gas mileage has gone up from the K&N and stock tubing, even though I'm running the AC often now in the summer compared to the March spring weather when I got it. I don't have any complaints, and if it wasn't for the people complaining of JLT's intakes sometimes hitting the Oil Caps, and a friend having a Steeda wholesaler account always helps...
 
mine is LOW in the bumper with my blower setup....sucked up plentty of water last year in a storm, but luckily didn't ruin my engine. If you can keep it in the engine bay, do it. Kenne Bell probably just said that cause they want you to buy their kit :rolleyes:
 
Heres a bit of info, take it as you will.

My last car was a 92 fox with a 351 high compression engine. It had an afm pms on it with the iat sensor re located to the c&l intake tube.

When I had the stock box (works just like a fenderwell cai kit, sucks air from fender) the avg intake temps were 75-80 (on a 70 degree day).

I later changed the upper elbow to one that fit under a stock hood and had to go back with a filter on the end of the maf b/c the angle was too much to fit it all back in right. My temps went to 120-130 at BEST. Got much hotter if I were in traffic while the factory box kept it cool at most all times.

Thats just my experience. Engine bay filters just offer too many oppurtunities to f chit up. Fan wash, more dirt/grease and heat are the obvious culprits.

the difference in iat temps from the c&l and the stock airbox was the fact that c&ls is aluminum and the stock is plastic and rubber. aluminum is gonna retain and transfer more heat than the plastic.

i made my own cai out of abs plastic and it stays cool all the time, it has a 45degree bend with the maf and the filter in the fenderwell. the plastic does not get hott and the filter is out of the engine bay. made a noticable difference from the chrome cai i had before.
 
Sounds like the K&N FIPK fits what you want. I have the kit and absolutely love it.

Low-restriction tubing
composite plastic (no heat absorbtion)
heat shield
huge filter

summer2006B010.jpg


Whatever kit you get, stay away from those made of metal. I made the mistake of purchasing an MAC CAI (made of chrome) the first time around and I swear that I would have suffered 3rd degree burns if I had touched the thing.
 
the difference in iat temps from the c&l and the stock airbox was the fact that c&ls is aluminum and the stock is plastic and rubber. aluminum is gonna retain and transfer more heat than the plastic.

i made my own cai out of abs plastic and it stays cool all the time, it has a 45degree bend with the maf and the filter in the fenderwell. the plastic does not get hott and the filter is out of the engine bay. made a noticable difference from the chrome cai i had before.



You either mis read or mis understood my post. My setup ALWAYS had the c&l tube with the iat. I used 2 different filter/box options with the c&l tube. The first was the stock box with the tube and then the filter on the end of the tube. There was a huge difference in the temps between the 2.
 
Sounds like the K&N FIPK fits what you want. I have the kit and absolutely love it.

Whatever kit you get, stay away from those made of metal. I made the mistake of purchasing an MAC CAI (made of chrome) the first time around and I swear that I would have suffered 3rd degree burns if I had touched the thing.

I had that on my car before the accident but now that I have a KB I/C kit waiting to be put on, I don't know what way to go with the CAI.
 
The CAI in the fenderwell could be dicey b/c they tend suck up moisture from the ground, which could cause engine knock if enough gets from the intake to the lower manifold, but yea its a fact the the temp is colder in the wheel well esecially when there is unheated fresh air constantly coming, but the engine bay vergine is user friendly and you can put a larger filter on it without any frame obstruction, but I still say the longer air has to travel the cooler it will become.
 
one factor in detonation is the temp of the air being drawn in,esp. under boost. With the KB all tuners start pulling timing the higher the aits get(as low as 110*) there is a very big difference in the power from 90* to 130* aits. the i/c helps but the KB under no boost(bypass open) creates a lot of heat so the cooler the air the better. if rai is in a box that is forced to suck the air from the fenderwell exit, it should be fine. but just a open filter your asking for trouble(not to mention no power) with the KB