some are telling me to mini-tub the rear to fit at least 15x10" wheels. what do you all think? are 15x8" fine for this 347 motor? what if... in the future, an alum 427 is put in place? i also have a chance to cut out some rust in the leaf spring to rear frame rail trunk area and in the driver side frame rail in front of the shock tower.
Mini-Tub Dilemma
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brianj5600
Active Member
If you are going to make big power, 427, you will end up running drag radials full time or spin all the time. My car does OK with 275/50/15 M/T DR's on a 15x8. Regular street radials will spin at any speed below 60mph. I think blown65 runs the same DR's on his car with no minitub.
blown65
Founding Member
Yup they do good on the street. If you only drive on dry pavement I like the Hoosier dr much better though. Slicks stay with m/t. The Hoosier slick I had were terribly inconsistant. I'm running 26x10 mt slicks on 15x8 at the strip and the are perfect. 275/50/15 or 275/40/17 on the street.
coolblue65
Founding Member
this is interesting because when I tried putting a set of 275/50/15 MT Drag radials on 8" wheels, the tires were hitting the leaf spring and sticking out passed the fendors. Are your tires inside or even flush with the wheel wells?
valley firearms
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- Sep 1, 2005
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blown65
Founding Member
They are a tad outside, but not bad. I believe I read your post on those, and your were running 4.25 offset wheels correct? I'm running 4.5" offset. Sometimes I wonder if my rear axle has a different width than some other ppl on here, where the offset sets my wheels out a tad more.
Anyhow, for me they work fine.
I didnt know MT made a 26x11 slick, only a 26x10, then it goes to a 28x11.5? Maybe your talking about a 26x11 ET Street? Those are different dimensions than ET Drag.
blown65
Founding Member
I can roll into the throttle on mine and stay hooked, obviously I cant just hammer it. However my suspension is setup real loose to transfer well. I'm sure it would handle another 100+hp with no issues on the street the way it is right now. Not sure your combo but with a blower and 347 you should be making fair amount of low end tq, prob some of the problem. Suspension kills anything at the track though. If I can do 1.44 60' on 275/40/17's a blown 347 should be able to.
valley firearms
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You are right. I guess it was unfair of me to state that without further info. I do have a 4 link that I have not dialed in due to an recent engine mishap at Polar Raceway. I'm currently in the middle of another engine build as we speak. I wish Summit gave out frequent flier miles. One other reason could be the BFG drag radial is less superior than the M/T. From my own personal experience, I will never buy another set of G-Force drag radials due to the very fast tread wear and lack of traction. That is on my car, they may work better or as designed on another set up. I wish they made the m/t drag radials in a 295/35-18.
you might be right but i bought the setup 15 years ago and just got the car back on the road last summer
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i talked to a shop. he said i should first buy the rear disc brakes, 9" housing, and wheels before doing a mini-tub. is he correct? if so, how do i know what length to get for the rear housing and what back spacing for the 15x10" wheel? i'm thinking 1" less than stock length and talk to PSE for correct back spacing to make the wheel flush with the body, but then i have to worry about tire bulge.
or should i tell him to just tub it to the max w/out interfering with the fold-down seat or quarter panels?
or should i tell him to just tub it to the max w/out interfering with the fold-down seat or quarter panels?
blown65
Founding Member
That's kinda ass backwards. If ur planning to minitub the do that the set the rear width after IMO
well the brakes will change the offset required for wheels. so i understand that point. but i would do the minitub first and the housing last. you can order a housing any way you want. if you are cutting the housing... get a wheel that will be centered over the bearing, this will promote equal load on that bearing and increase its life.
The size tire you run will dictate the size rim you run. Even if you did a min tub, it's useless on these cars because you will still hit the leafs. Personally I would run the rims with the least amount of backspace as possible. This will make the rear end shorter with less weight. Bearings are cheap. Figure out the tire size and go from there. Your shop should know that. They are going backwards. Backspace on rims is done on .500 inch increments usually. Rear ends are done in much smaller increments, and can have more accurate placement if rear is done last.
blown65
Founding Member
Well if your doing a mini tub I would relocate the leafs to get use of it. Otherwise why do one. My leafs are the issue not the tubs in stock form. (a little massaging of one area was needed.)
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