Wiring smoked...

Joe,

I have the E303 cam so I went with the post on setting the base to 1000rpm with IAB disconnected and then reset the TSP to .98volts.

After reconnecting the battery, I get a warm start idle of 1200 rpms which drops to 1000rpms after 15 seconds. Reving it and it hangs at 1500 rpms for a few seconds and then drops back to 1000 rpms.

Turn her off and restart her and she starts right up and hunts between 1200-1000rpms for a few seconds and then settles...I think she is fixed.

Rehatch:

1) Opened up space between the IAB holes to set base idle at 1000rpms
2) Reset TSP to .98volts
3) inverted the IAB
4) Timing set to 13* BTDC (spout removed)
5) battery disconnected for 15 minutes


Now I need to take her out for a drive to verify all is well. I think me headers have rusted through... crappy MAC ceramic coating.... :( (of course they are 10 years old)

Thanks for the help.
 
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Surge is back...plus stalling... rpms drop to 600 and struggles and dies

Idle set to 1000rpms (via opening the material between the IAB)
TSP set to .98
Timing 13*
Key on engine off codes pulled... nothing

So my next guess is that it has to be a fuel issue...I plan to pull enigine on codes next and put a FP gauge on her as well.

Any other suggestions?
 
ok,

So I have done the following:

-Charged the AC..no more on/off rapid cycle so the surge from the AC is gone

-pulled engine running codes
--13 : RPM out of spec during normal idle operation (which I expected since I have her set to 1000rpms
--44 :problems with Thermactor Air Control System
--94:Thermactor Air System: problem on right bank (pass side)

I looked at the system but have no idea which line is the right bank...lower or upper since they are stacked going along the passenger side of the motor and headed down to the exhuast...also any idea what to check? Obvisously the valve isnt the issue cause it would jam both banks if it was bad.

As teh codes began to repeat the idle went all over the place and she stalled.:shrug:
 
The 44/94 codes will have minimal effect on idle problems.

Codes 44 & 94 - AIR system inoperative - Air Injection. Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks.

The computer uses the change in the O2 sensor readings to detect operation of the Thermactor control valves. When the dump valve opens, it reduces the O2 readings in the exhaust system. Then it closes the dump valve and the O2 readings increase. By toggling the dump valve (TAB) and switching the diverter valve (TAD) flow from the back of the heads to the air pipe, the computer tests for the 44/94 codes.

Testing the system:
Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect
the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump
the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve.

The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or
to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the
vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes
from one hose to the next.

The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheel well turn the
vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire.
Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to
the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground
necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side
will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.


The computer provides the ground to complete the circuit to power the solenoid valve that turns the
vacuum on or off. The computer is located under the passenger side kick panel. Remove the kick panel &
the cover over the computer wiring connector pins. Check Pin 38 Solenoid valve #1 that provides vacuum
to the first Thermactor control valve for a switch from 12-14 volts to 1 volt or less. Do the same with pin
32 solenoid valve #2 that provides vacuum to the second Thermactor control valve. Starting the engine
with the computer jumpered to self test mode will cause all the actuators to toggle on and off. If after
doing this and you see no switching of the voltage on and off, you can start testing the wiring for shorts to
ground and broken wiring. An Ohm check to ground with the computer connector disconnected & the
solenoid valves disconnected should show open circuit between the pin 32 and ground and again on pin 38
and ground. In like manner, there should be less than 1 ohm between pin 32 and solenoid valve #2 and pin
38 & Solenoid valve #1.

If after checking the resistance of the wiring & you are sure that there are no wiring faults, start looking at the
solenoid valves. If you disconnect them, you can jumper power & ground to them to verify operation. Power &
ground supplied should turn on the vacuum flow, remove either one and the vacuum should stop flowing.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

See http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50636&d=1180923382 for a very nice drawing of the Thermactor Air System (smog pump) plumbing

If you have a catalytic converter H pipe, you need to fix these codes. If you don't, then don't worry about them
 
I have a catted pipe....but its just empty shells... BBK cat came lose in the housing and rattled all the time so I punched them.

Dumb question time:

I left the timing spout IN when I set my Base idle RPM's..... good or bad? I have seen setting either way.


turned the CAI 1/4 turn...no difference, unplugged her and she stalled..:nice:


Fuel pressure (at 1100rpm) no vac: 42-44 PSI
Fuel pressure (at 1100rpm) with vac: 36 PSI

Gun her and the PSI climbs from 36 to 40 and then when you let up drops back to 36.
 
The Surging Idle Checklist instructs you remove the SPOUT and disconnect the IAC when doing a base idle set.

I highly recommend you replace the gasket on the IAC and quit trying to make the car idle at 1000 RPM.

From the "Surging Idle Checklist"...
"First of all, the idle needs to be adjusted to where the speed is at or below 600 RPM with the IAC disconnected. Then the electrical signal through the IAC can vary the airflow through it under computer control. Remember that the IAC can only add air to increase the base idle speed set by the mechanical adjustment. The 600 RPM base idle speed is what you have after the mechanical adjustment. The IAC increases that speed by supplying more air under computer control to raise the RPM’s to 650-725 RPM’s

Remember that changing the mechanical idle speed adjustment changes the TPS setting too.

This isn't the method Ford uses, but it does work. Do not attempt to set the idle speed until you have fixed all the codes and are sure that there are no vacuum leaks. Warm the engine up to operating temperature, place the transmission in neutral, and set the parking brake. Turn off lights, A/C, all unnecessary electrical loads. Disconnect the IAC electrical connector. Remove the SPOUT plug. This will lock the ignition timing so that the computer won't change the spark advance, which changes the idle speed. Note the engine RPM: use the mechanical adjustment screw under the throttle body to raise or lower the RPM until you get the 600 RPM mark +/- 25 RPM. When you are done, reconnect the IAC electrical connector and re-install the SPOUT. Changing the mechanical adjustment changes the TPS, so you will need to set it.

An engine that whose idle speed cannot be set at 600 RPM with the IAC disconnected has mechanical problems. Vacuum leaks are the #1 suspect in this case. A vacuum gauge will help pinpoint both vacuum leaks and improperly adjusted valves. A sticking valve or one adjusted too tight will cause low vacuum and a 5"-8" sweep every time the bad cylinder comes up on compression stroke. An extreme cam can make the 600 RPM set point difficult to set. Contact your cam supplier or manufacturer to get information on idle speed and quality "




You need to try turning the MAF 180 degrees in each direction in order to eliminate the CAI as being a problem causer. Turning it 1/4 turn won't do the job.
 
ok, I will turn it 180*...but according to your check list that applies if you have an open filter under the hood...mine is inside the wheel well. Also,I set my idle based on the "letter cam" advise posted in Post 2 of the Surge check list.

I spotted the Spout comment... time to reset mt idle...

thanks again.
 
I just finished readjusting my base idle RPM's to 1000rpms with the spout and IAC disconencted. Reset the TSP to .99 volts. Plugged the IAC and Spout back in. Idle speed is now 1300rpms. That seems a little high since I mechanically have to raised. I pulled the battery cable to reset the computer and will let it sit for a while and recheck it all.
 
The 1000 RPM is best with some of the cams like the X-303.

A B303 will probably idle down below 1000 RPM with a little effort.

Clocking the MAF is done a little bit at a time. If you just turn it 180 degrees without testing the angles between, you may pass up the smooth spot you are looking for.