Mechanical Oil PSI guage... stainless line? help?

[dderek]

If anybody has bought a mechanical oil pressure guage, they know of that stupid clear line that comes with the kit, nylon or whatever it is.

anyways, that has melted on me before, squirting all over my headers..
so, id like to use stainless steel braided line..

although im unaware of what fittings i need to make this happen?

has anybody done it before so it would be a little easier for me?

I know the hole in the block for the guage is 1/4" I have a nipple tube for that.

and the back of the oil guage is 1/8" i think.

now where can i get some adapters and tubing to fit in between the two?

i realize its going to be 40" + and cost a bit, but its going to be worth it.

dont want to do copper tubing either.


..also, car is almost finished!

 

[Darkwriter77]

What's wrong with copper tubing?

 

[dderek]

What's wrong with copper tubing?

thats what the car had when i bought it, and it leaked everywhere inside the cab.. so i dont want to try that again.

.. i think this is all i need?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-3229/?image=large

 

[faststang90]

what kind of gauge is it autometer ? i have a autometer gauge that came with the small tube and im going to have 1 made at the hose place by the house or see if they have 1. i had a small tube bust and oil came all in the car.

 

[dderek]

yeah its autometer.
thats exactly why i dont want to take any chances and get stainless line this time.
i just bought new carpet to replace the discolored oil soaked old carpet

 

[faststang90]

i took mine off and im going by the hose shop tommorrow. i can get part numbers and price for u

 

[jrichker]

Some tips on the installation, especially the flex hose...

Mechanical oil pressure gauge installation..


1.) Remove old pressure sender. It is located down by the oil filter and has 1 wire on a push on screw connector.
2.) Install ¼” pipe tee fitting with a short ¼” nipple on the place where you removed the oil pressure sender.
3.) Install the original oil pressure sender back in one of the tee ports.
4.) Install the gauge line restrictor in the remaining port of the tee.
5.) Connect the flex tubing or hydraulic hose to the gauge restrictor. Be sure to route the tubing or hose away from the exhaust manifolds. Be sure to either use hydraulic hose or oil and heat resistant flex tubing for the pressure line. Do not use copper tubing for the connection to the gauge restrictor or engine. Over a period of time, the vibration will work harden the tubing and cause it to crack and fail.
6.) If the gauge is going to mount under the hood, connect it to the end of the hose or flex tubing. Use some Tie-wraps to secure the gauge and its plumbing to the wiring harness on the driver’s side inner fender.
7.) If the gauge is going to mount in the passenger compartment you get to find a place to run the tubing through the firewall. I suggest that you pick your spot from the inside since that is the area with the most difficult access. Do not run the tubing through the exact same hole as the steering shaft. It will tangle up with the steering shaft and cause major problems.
8.) Install the gauge inside the car in the location of your choosing. Connect the pressure line to the gauge and secure it out of the way of moving parts with Tie-wraps.
9.) Be sure to ground the gauge lighting wire to clean, shiny bare metal. Connect the other wire from the gauge lighting to a light brown/red wire on the radio wiring harness. There are 2 connectors in the radio wiring harness, but only one of them has the light brown/red wire you need for gauge illumination. Solder the gauge lighting wire to the light brown/red wire on the radio harness and cover the soldered joint with heat shrink.

How to solder like a pro - Ford Fuel Injection How To Solder Like a Pro a must read for any automotive wiring job.

Be sure to use a gauge restrictor fitting in the pressure line going to the gauge. The restrictor will prevent all of the engine's oil supply from ending up on the pavement before you can stop it if the gauge line fails. I had a gauge line rupture, and the restrictor fitting saved my engine from serious damage.

 

[dderek]

Thank you for the restrictor screw idea..
thats a very clever, helpful idea..
now i just need to figure out now to connect a hose from one side to the other.

youd think its easy, but apparently not

 

[faststang90]

i went to the hose shop and they said that the new autometer gauge comes with a small hole and u dont need to do that on them. i got the 2 pieces i needed to go on the gauge and on the motor for 3.30. he said the braided line would be the best for the oil to go in. i just have to get the motor in to know how long i need it. he said he has it 16,24,36,48. he said he can order it any lenght i need it. the hose place is b&w hose 281 422 0571

 

[jrichker]

i went to the hose shop and they said that the new autometer gauge comes with a small hole and u dont need to do that on them. i got the 2 pieces i needed to go on the gauge and on the motor for 3.30. he said the braided line would be the best for the oil to go in. i just have to get the motor in to know how long i need it. he said he has it 16,24,36,48. he said he can order it any lenght i need it. the hose place is b&w hose 281 422 0571

I would ask you to ponder your though process a bit...

The restrictor fitting is installed at the engine block. It purpose is to limit the amount of oil you would lose if the hose sprung a serious leak. Having a small hole in the gauge end is useless if the hose between the gauge and the engine springs a leak.

 

[faststang90]

i see what u are saying just had to wake up thanks

 

[Lifted94XLT]

Some tips on the installation, especially the flex hose...

Mechanical oil pressure gauge installation..


1.) Remove old pressure sender. It is located down by the oil filter and has 1 wire on a push on screw connector.
2.) Install ¼” pipe tee fitting with a short ¼” nipple on the place where you removed the oil pressure sender.
3.) Install the original oil pressure sender back in one of the tee ports.
4.) Install the gauge line restrictor in the remaining port of the tee.
5.) Connect the flex tubing or hydraulic hose to the gauge restrictor. Be sure to route the tubing or hose away from the exhaust manifolds. Be sure to either use hydraulic hose or oil and heat resistant flex tubing for the pressure line. Do not use copper tubing for the connection to the gauge restrictor or engine. Over a period of time, the vibration will work harden the tubing and cause it to crack and fail.
6.) If the gauge is going to mount under the hood, connect it to the end of the hose or flex tubing. Use some Tie-wraps to secure the gauge and its plumbing to the wiring harness on the driver’s side inner fender.
7.) If the gauge is going to mount in the passenger compartment you get to find a place to run the tubing through the firewall. I suggest that you pick your spot from the inside since that is the area with the most difficult access. Do not run the tubing through the exact same hole as the steering shaft. It will tangle up with the steering shaft and cause major problems.
8.) Install the gauge inside the car in the location of your choosing. Connect the pressure line to the gauge and secure it out of the way of moving parts with Tie-wraps.
9.) Be sure to ground the gauge lighting wire to clean, shiny bare metal. Connect the other wire from the gauge lighting to a light brown/red wire on the radio wiring harness. There are 2 connectors in the radio wiring harness, but only one of them has the light brown/red wire you need for gauge illumination. Solder the gauge lighting wire to the light brown/red wire on the radio harness and cover the soldered joint with heat shrink.

How to solder like a pro - Ford Fuel Injection How To Solder Like a Pro a must read for any automotive wiring job.

Be sure to use a gauge restrictor fitting in the pressure line going to the gauge. The restrictor will prevent all of the engine's oil supply from ending up on the pavement before you can stop it if the gauge line fails. I had a gauge line rupture, and the restrictor fitting saved my engine from serious damage.

Resurrecting an old post I know but I was searchin and found this thread. Thought it would be better to bring this back up than start a new one.......

Anyway Jrichker, I'm having a little trouble completely understanding your description and want to make sure I am good before tackling the install....

you say NOT to use copper tubing connected straight to the T fitting coming out of the oil pressure sender port and to use flex tubing or hydraulic hose. My question is.... are you suggesting not to use copper tubing at all? if so, how would I convert from the flex tube or hyrdo hose to the copper tube and keep it sealed with no leaks.... I think I'm missing something here. Thanks!!

-Ryan