Broke two clutch cables, 3rd one is stretching. Reccomend another

The Green GT

No 13 year olds are safe around me.
10 Year Member
Jan 8, 2006
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Louisiana
Its been a while. I know some of you guys will remeber me. I havent been messing with the stang lately, but I plan to start once Im finished building this AR-15 and have more money to throw at it.

So anyway, heres the problem. I had the stock clutch cable break on me about 10 months ago. Had to get a $50 cable locally because I needed my car ASAP. Got it fixed, then that one broke about a week ago. I could tell it was stretching because it was getting harder and harder to put into gear, and then one day it just snapped.

Well with this one, I also needed to get the car back up and running ASAP. So I had to go with a local cable.

Now heres the problem. This cable is already stretching. I can feel it. I have to slam it to get it into gear now, and I have to apply like 100 lbs of pressure to get the pedal to the floor. No joke. It actually hurts the balls of my feet I have to press so hard.

Heres the parts we are looking at. FOIRE Fire Wall Adjuster (Currently maxed out trying to get it to go into gear easier), FOIRE aluminum quadrant, and stock T5 w/ HD pressure plate.

So Ive decided Im going to order a cable online, swap them out, and bring this crap back to the parts store. What is a good strong cable that will still be easy to depress?
 
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When you say its hard to depress, does it come back up freely? What are you using for a clutch? Sounds like a beast. Mine snapped twice and it was because the clutch cable was located too close to the headers and the heat got to it. Try bending the bracket closer to the frame if that's the case.
 
When you say its hard to depress, does it come back up freely? What are you using for a clutch? Sounds like a beast. Mine snapped twice and it was because the clutch cable was located too close to the headers and the heat got to it. Try bending the bracket closer to the frame if that's the case.

It comes back up fine, so nothing is catching it. And the rubber tube on all of them was fine, just the metal cable snapped, so it wasnt the heat. I attribute the first one to it being the stock 15 year old cable, and the second one and this one im just attributing them to ****ty cables.
 
Where are they breaking? All three at the same point?
Stock one broke near the quadrant, second broke like 2 feet from the clutch fork.

So is it hard to depress the clutch pedal the whole time or only that end bit to get it to disengage the pressure plate? Are you getting adjustable cables with the two nuts on the end?

Once you take the slack out its hard to press the entire time. And Im getting non-adjustable cables. Im willing to bet an adjustable cable would have already snapped.
 
You shouldn't have that much trouble the entire time. I'm going to bet it's a problem with the pilot bearing sliding on the input shaft or maybe the pressure plate springs are broken in some way.

But it didnt do it till I put this cable on. And the pilot bearing, TO bearing, clutch, and press plate are all less than 4 years old.

The second cable that broke had none of these signs. I could just tell it was stretching because it was getting harder to put into gear.
 
I have the original OEM cable (162K miles) and the same Fiore Racing quad & firewall adjuster. No issues. Flawless operation.

I would have to recommend an OEM cable as the cable itself is quite a bit thicker than the aftermarket pieces.

Do you have the plastic washers installed correctly on the quad to insure the cable is lined up straight with it?

GT
 
Get the MM universal cable.
Ill probably go with that then. I went with the FOIRE stuff after you recommended it. And I like it.
Where can I get the MM cable?

I have the original OEM cable (162K miles) and the same Fiore Racing quad & firewall adjuster. No issues. Flawless operation.

I would have to recommend an OEM cable as the cable itself is quite a bit thicker than the aftermarket pieces.

Do you have the plastic washers installed correctly on the quad to insure the cable is lined up straight with it?

GT

Yep, its all straight.
 
That's tough. If you can call, that's best. Their phone guys are very good.

If calling is tough: Jack Hidley is a Corral member and super sharp MM tech guy if you'd rather PM.

I now run their whole kit in one stang and the FWA is middle-ish (which I think would mean that another FWA should work). Their FWA does compress (pancake) more than some of them out there but I really don't think you'll need that extra help.

Best to just call or PM/email to know for sure.
 
about 99 percent of the time, it will all interchange with eachother. the MM unit is simply a modified OEM cable.

Your oem cable did it's job admirably, the aftermarket cables are just junk. I had a Fox one time went through at least 4 cables a year. Then I saw on the forums people recommending OEM replacement. So I just go to the junkyard and pull an OEM cable in good shape for about 10 bucks and be done with it.

And FWIW, 96 up cables WILL fit and work on our cars, the cables are just either a little longer or shorter, can't remember and the mounting bracket is slightely different. And Fox cables work as well. the parts stores are ALWAYS out of stock for 94/95 cables, so I just ask for a 93 cable and it's in stock and about 20 bucks cheaper, that's if you're in a bind and need one locally.
 
i use a steeda cable on my car and its the only aftermarket one i have found that doesnt snap with in like a month mines been on four atleast 8 months now and still doesnt feel strecthy. they use ss instead of galvinize like the others i had but they are like a hundred dollars and taking the fw adjuster off also seemed to get rid of some stretchy feel idk why