I have an 8.8 rearend with an Auburn Pro diff, 31 spline axles, and 95+ 5 lug disc brakes. I had the rearend built by a shop, and its just never felt right. I took the axles out to put in the new brakes and now that its back together it does this humming whine thats very loud especially when in reverse. If I just roll the car back by hand it does it. If I jack the car up and move the wheels by hand it will also do it. Rearend has 2000 miles on it, almost all of them from being pulled on a tow dolley, didnt make the noise before I pulled it apart to install new brakes.
8.8 rearend whining noise in reverse
- Thread starter SmockDoiley
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zoomin
Founding Member
diff definately shouldnt be whining, sounds like either the pinion depth is setup incorrectly or the carrier is shimmed out inproperly. do you get a clunk when you let off the gas? either way take it back to the shop and get them to pop the cover and check out the wear patterns after its cleaned (go to Differential Repair & Installation Instructions and scroll down and it will show you what means what and what is acceptable), also get them to put depth gauge and show you that the backlash is within spec. Lastly with the driveshaft unbolted get them to show you that the proper preload was put on the pinion (should be if using new brgs. 16 to 29 in-lb, and if old brgs. 8 to 14 in-lb). All of this stuff must be setup correctly for the gears to mesh as they were designed to, if the setup is wrong you are just wearing the gears and they will never be quiet. Either way i would take it back to the shop that did it and let them know your concern, a whiny diff isnt a well rebuilt diff.
Hope this helps
Victor
Hope this helps
Victor
That isn't an option nor is it really the issue. Like I said, it didnt start doing this till I pulled the axles to change the brake setup. Why would that be the shops fault? I should clarify. I did NOT touch the carrier or gears or remove anything but the axles AFTER it had over 1000 miles with no noise. Now that I've switched the brake setup after the car has sat for 2 years undriven, I'm getting this noise.
The resident Stangnet rear axle expert is on vacation this week. Or was he the guy that won the big lottery and bought a new Lambo?
Seriously, this is a community where a lot of people come and go, and someone that has a setup exactly like yours may not be online at this time.
Check the simple stuff first:
Does the Auburn Pro diff use the same lubricant as the trac lock on the stock Mustang 8.8? If so, did you add the friction modifier. If not, did you use the correct lubricant for the Auburn Pro and the right amount of it?
Check the lubricant level using the pinky gauge. Yes, I know gear oil stinks and your pinky will smell bad for a week. You are probably thinking that's a dumb statement, but do it anyway.
Did you lube up the axle ends, bearings and seals when you put the axles back in? They should have all gotten a coat of lubricant.
Did you inspect the axle shaft bearing areas for dirt, scratches or damage?
The cross pin, C clip parts and spider gears should have also have gotten a good coat of lube.
Did you put the thrust washers back in behind the spider gears? Did you lube them up too? It is easy for one of them to slide out of place when the spider gears are removed and installed.
rear end noise...
you're right.. and i singed up for stangnet after i read your post.
block the car - jack up the rear - Jackstands - put it in neutral - take the park brake off.
take the drums off
- inspect axle flanges for installation burrs
- put dial indicator on axle flanges to ensure concentricity and flatness.
- have drums/rotors turned ( not just replaced - cheap ones show up out of round )
- re-install drums
- call axle manufacturer and tell them which wheels you have and ask them what torque spec to torque them to.
- check wheel manufacturer's torque spec.
- reassemble and if conflicting torque specs exist try the lighter torque spec on the wheels first - use a torque wrench - i'm not joking - race-weight axles can deflect enough to pull your drums/rotors out of round if if you let some clown with an impact gun at them.
if it still makes noise I suspect you bent the backing plate/caliper bracket with a prybar swapping the axles - or otherwise duffed the installation there. the axle manufacturer may have gotten the bearing to brake flange spacing wrong - it's quite uncommon but that makes them noisy too. Caliper brackets can also be bent or tweaked.
good Luck.
John ( a guru from elsewhere... )
you're right.. and i singed up for stangnet after i read your post.
block the car - jack up the rear - Jackstands - put it in neutral - take the park brake off.
take the drums off
- inspect axle flanges for installation burrs
- put dial indicator on axle flanges to ensure concentricity and flatness.
- have drums/rotors turned ( not just replaced - cheap ones show up out of round )
- re-install drums
- call axle manufacturer and tell them which wheels you have and ask them what torque spec to torque them to.
- check wheel manufacturer's torque spec.
- reassemble and if conflicting torque specs exist try the lighter torque spec on the wheels first - use a torque wrench - i'm not joking - race-weight axles can deflect enough to pull your drums/rotors out of round if if you let some clown with an impact gun at them.
if it still makes noise I suspect you bent the backing plate/caliper bracket with a prybar swapping the axles - or otherwise duffed the installation there. the axle manufacturer may have gotten the bearing to brake flange spacing wrong - it's quite uncommon but that makes them noisy too. Caliper brackets can also be bent or tweaked.
good Luck.
John ( a guru from elsewhere... )
Not surprising, once again I've had to answer my own post. The moaning is caused by poor Ford engineering. This is so common of a problem with rear disc brakes on the 8.8 that Ford created Anti-moan braces for newer style Fords. They bolt to the caliper mounts and transfer the resonance to the axle tube via a U-bolt.
you tree'd me on that one, was gonna tell you to get anti-moan brackets... I was posting in a muffler thread and didnt see this one.
my brakes do the same thing, dosent really bother me enough to fix the problem, how much did those brackets cost you? can they be installed with the axles still in?
67coupe
Founding Member
Both of you beat me to it.
You need anti-moan brackets.
Rear Disc Brakes Anti-Moan Brackets - How To - 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Magazine
They are V6/GT and cobra specific. Get the moan brackets that match your rotor/caliper size.
You need anti-moan brackets.
Rear Disc Brakes Anti-Moan Brackets - How To - 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Magazine
They are V6/GT and cobra specific. Get the moan brackets that match your rotor/caliper size.
Maybe it would of helped if you had an accurate depiction of the real problem to begin with.
First you told us it was whining, then you said it was moaning.
Once you said whining, first thought for people is the gears.
You also titled your post "8.8 rearend whining noise in reverse"
Before you start getting pissy about people not helping you, maybe you should consider the fact that you didn't know what the difference in the 2 sounds was or where it was coming from.
If you goto the doctor and tell him your foot hurts, you can't expect him to diagnose a broken finger.
I know that this forum can be tough for hard technical questions, but no reason to whine about it when your problem could have been a few different things. Had i seen this post i would have said something, but i missed it, **** happens
I agree with smockdoiley about the tech help on this site, it sucks. I DO surf multiple sites and www. s b f t e c h .com is a good place and I personally like corral better than stangnet. To each their own though......BUT stangnet is good for some things......
btw which gives me more power, h pipe or x haha
btw which gives me more power, h pipe or x haha
Shut yer trap XP8, this site sucks for tech advice, admit it. I'm sorry I don't have a hot rod noise dictionary. I did mention that it didn't make the noise until I installed the new brakes. It doesn't sound like a moan either, its actually a long drawn out fart squeal low trumpet noise. Is that better creampuff?? Except for a few geniuses on this site like JRICHKER, most of the advice you get on here is lame. Most people treat you like your stupid and ask if you put gear oil in it. Yes I put oil in the rear end. I think I'd cover that before asking on here about my problems. That's because they have no real advice or experience to really give. I only post on here in worse case scenarios when Im just too lazy to just call the manufacturer or its too late at night to do so. When I do post or try to give technical advice about what I'm doing I get 3 dozen clowns telling me it can't be done. EXAMPLE: You can't put that size tire on an 85. You can't put bullits on 87-93 rotors. You can't put a 5-speed behind a big block. You can't put a stock hood over a big block. Well I'm here to say I did them all. Its called do some research, choose your parts carefully and actually do some work. Thanks to my own efforts and little to no help from anyone on this forum I run a 501 BBF with TKO600 5-speed in traffic at 190* in drought infested 95+ daily weather in south texas. My tires don't rub, my car corners like its on rails, and stops on a dime. So eat it wannabe car builders. Dont slap flowmasters, cobra rims and trickflow heads on your "Stang" and think you know anything about custom 5.0 building. God damnit I hate this ****ing site!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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