My new heap. Another ugly coupe

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Thought they'd be ported, those are damn good numbers. Stock or not I;d take those over anything else in that area. Ended up with victor heads with the 2.125 valve we talked about. Had cleaned them up, then when the valve job was done, he plunge cut the seats for me on the inside of the seat. The seats hung into the bowls pretty good casuing a lip.And blend one cyl for me to flow them. I have to still go back and clean of the rest of them still though. Didn't take any "meat" out. But a lot of casting flaws and blending form the original plunge cut when they put in the seats, smoothing stuff out.

Did the drawing for the lower control arm brackets to the rear end today. Added a hole for the shock, and a wheelie bar for saftey. Probably for safety in the beginning, but who knows.
 
Ahh ok, I was going to buy a set of those and have them ported and stay N/A but decided that I want to do something different. :p Making 750 or so N/A would of been cool, but 9000 shift point and life of the engine isnt what I wanted to risk. Plus it becomes totally un-streetable at that point.
 
No, not yet. Got a bit to do first. Get the skins and everything back on, throw the tires back in there and measure over all first. My guess is the axles are going to be a good 6in shorter a side or so judging by the old rims and BS.

Plan is to keep thing thing under 7500, preferably 7200ish. MPH calculators and tire sizing I should be able to hit a good MPH with going to 7200 with tire growth
 
I've got a set I'm not sure if I'm ever going to get to use. Lightened flanges, 5/8", I don't remember the lengths. I got them to put under my '63 Fairlane. Duffy had ordered them for a customer project that never came to fruition, the should fit under the 'lane, as I don't have wheels for it yet.
 
K, got off my ass and finally got the lat few little things done to send it to the be blasted. Tomorrow epoxy primer, and if I have since finish acid etching the roof where I wouldn't let them blast. Going to be awesome working on a car without crap falling in my eyes all the time. Although instead of rust, now it'll probably just be sand. :doh: Oh well, at least the sand won't rust in my eye.

Did score some rear wilwoods brand new with internal e-brake for 450. I'll just turn those bad boys into dual caliper rears. Ordered the cam. I haven't talked to him in about 2 weeks, but guess was the cam would be .660-.680 lift. Should be "easy" to make 1000hp on pump, and up to 12-1300 before starting to walk that fine line.

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Still thinking about that. Will get through the floor subframes with a cage for sure. Contemplating motor plates. Getting in the area where the car will try to steer itself because of the power. But truth be known their are tons of guys without it going 8.50's. Thing is I know where the car will end up in a few years. And I am trying to decide how much work I want to do when that time comes, compared to what I can do now. Above all it needs to stay a street car. Even if the hood is popped and we see lots of "race inspired" parts. Like a sheet metal intake. Hell, if I can make one, why not. Same, maybe cheaper than its cast counterpart.
 
A motor plate huh? cough *racecar* cough :)
HEY, inspired by race parts lol. "next time you see a street car with a plate, you lemme know" as said by Rich.

I am packaging the 69's dual DP's out through his K-member, and it SUX. I was thinking a plate so I could ditch the legs that come down from the engine mounts.J bars would be to keep the things driving straight under power. I may skip the 13 in wide slicks though. If I can't get a normal size tire to hook, I'll go to another track.
 
Motor plates are just a different type of motor mounts. I don't see how motor plates make a difference in streetable or not. If you drive it to the track even though it is an hour away, it is a street car. If you trailer it if you have to drive more than 30 miles ain't a street car. We called them trailer queens in my street racing days.
 
Looking into 325/50 MT or a 325/50. think I'm just going to make room for the 29.5 x 13 slicks though. I know where the car will end up et wise, and I might as well do it now.

I agree with you Brian. I'm just not sure how it's going to work right now as far as getting all the crap to the track. Don't need quite the tools without the carb. I think I can find room for a cooler with ice in the tunk since it will have a tank down low, and not a cell. So I should have room for the cooler. But I may have to drag rich along to carry the slicks. I barely fit the last ones in there without a back seat.