Trying to make sense out of this (new to me) car

[jimzdat]

OK, got a great deal on this car (free!), so I'm willing to accept the fact that it's going to need a LOT of work - let's just say I'm thankful for the availability of patch panels.

Where I'm having trouble is sorting out exactly what the car is, year and model-wise. I have now found 3 different VINs on the car, only one of which matches the drivetrain bits left in it.

The car in question:

The VINs in question:

Door tag (from my reading, too easy to change and not original):

Left fender (for some unknown reason, this VIN was bondo'd over):

Finally, the tag screwed to the right fender:

The car had a I6 in it (as evidenced by the trans still in the car:

Here's some more things that befuddle me:
-Car has 5-lug wheels on all 4 corners (14")
-"Vent" emblems on the side are '65 - no horizontal bars
-Parking brake cables are missing, but there are 2 brackets in the tunnel for them - some research indicates this is a '65 detail?
-Grill looks like a '66?
-Interior is really rough, but here's a pic of the remains if it helps:

The title uses the '66 VIN, which is also the only one that matches the I6 configuration - but if it's wrong, it can be fixed without too much trouble. My thoughts on the VIN covered in bondo might be to hide from a salvage title - looks like the left front corner has been hit at some point.

Anyone who can offer some insight to help me out? Any and all assistance is appreciated; shoot me an email if there are any questions.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[2+2GT]

You are the owner of a parts collection. Now you have to take the fenders off and look for the other VINs. There is at least one, possibly two hidden under the edge of the fenders. The buck tag is useless, put it in a drawer. Put the door tag with it. Uncover all the apron VINs you can, and try to straighten it out. If your title matches one of the hidden ones, it shouldn't be too difficult. If not, I hope your tag agent knows his stuff.

 

[oh9mustang]

If your title matches one of the vins keep that vin and through the rest away.
Start by taking all the stuff out of the car, Seats, carpet, dash cover, door panels, Then you can see what you got. Everything in this car can be replaced, Everything, so it's really up to you and your checking account as to how nice you want it. When you have $10,000 in it you can tell yourself 2 things. One, Look what I did, or two, hay dummy, you could have bought one for $10,000. If you going to fix it, start a photo collection of the time line.
I have done several of these and they are a lot of work. Good luck. Remember that just like today the 2010 are out and it's 2009, the 66 could have been made in 65.

 

[2+2GT]

If your title matches one of the vins keep that vin and through the rest away.
Start by taking all the stuff out of the car, Seats, carpet, dash cover, door panels, Then you can see what you got. Everything in this car can be replaced, Everything, so it's really up to you and your checking account as to how nice you want it. When you have $10,000 in it you can tell yourself 2 things. One, Look what I did, or two, hey dummy, you could have bought one for $10,000. If you going to fix it, start a photo collection of the time line.
I have done several of these and they are a lot of work. Good luck. Remember that just like today the 2010 are out and it's 2009, the 66 could have been made in 65.

Um, rule #1, never destroy anything you take off the car, and NEVER throw away anything until the car is finished. For example, the roofrail weatherstrip retainer. Not available new. If you throw that away, figure on paying $100 if you have to replace them.

The hidden VINs will be the authentic number for the chassis. It's either a 65 or 66, the VIN will say. 66 models made in 1965 were stamped and titled as 66, since the model year started in August.

 

[jimzdat]

Thanks guys - appreciate it

I didn't plan on throwing anything out that I didn't already have a pricetag for; that could get ugly.
I kinda figured the buck tag was useless, as it's even easier to swap than the doortag. since the visible VIN on the fender was covered, I'm kinda leaning towards the attempted coverup of a salvage title. Since I'm switching states, I can apply for a lost title and get that cleared easily enough here in OH.

Judging from what I've found so far in the way of feeble repair attempts, I doubt anyone took the time to install the V8/5-lug stuff, wouldn't surprise me in the least if one of the 65 VINs that indicates a V8 is the right one.

Looks like I need to pull the fenders this week to make sure.

Jim

 

[RedGTvert]

The buck tag is useless, put it in a drawer.

And why do you say the buck tag is useless?

 

[RedGTvert]

The left apron was probably bondoed over because they took it off another vehicle at some point and they wanted to cover up the vin.

What about the right apron, is there a vin there?

 

[jimzdat]

The left front apron is wrinkled from obvious accident damage - I would hope that if they were going to pull one from another car and welded it in that they would have used a straight one?

Gonna pull the fenders this week and see what I find from the other VINs

 

[jimzdat]

Well, pulled both fenders - if there was ever a VIN stamped on either of the rear-most aprons, it was done with an invisible stamping die - either I'm looking in the wrong dang spot, or someone has replaced these panels in the past with non-stamped pieces.

Looks like I get to pick a VIN and run with it, based on what info I can find.

Any other "sure fire" methods or "tell tales" that will decipher the differences between 65 and 66? Or would I be better off with a new thread?

Thanks for the help,
Jim

 

[runawayabc123]

That dash is either a 65GT or a standard 66 dash. The date code for the 65 door tag is May 28, 65 which could be a GT, except that is a T code (I6), so it cann't be a GT. The buck tag is a 66 Tcode I6, which the dash is ok for.

Since GTs are uncommon, this makes me think it is a 66 car.

However, if you pull the back seat and look for the dual exhaust header brackets, you could find it to be a 65 GT car. (Edit or a K code, as they also got factory dual exhaust)

Or, maybe someone just swaped the dash along with a million other things on this car.

Also, I have heard rumors of 5 lug I6 cars. You may have to start picking through the suspension to see if it was swaped or not.

 

[2+2GT]

I'm betting on 65, and against GT. The GT never had the quarter panel emblems in 65-66. The grille and instrument cluster and glove box door are 66. The door panels 65. The front seats are 69. Very good seat choice. When you get seat upholstery, tell them you have a 69 coupe, then it'll all match. If you want a color other than black, work with your dealer to get a proper 65 color on the 69 seats. I know a cooperative dealer who can make that happen.

As for the year of your shell, loosen the instrument cluster and look at the bottom edge of the hole. If it's straight, it's a 65. The 66 had a round notch stamped for the speedo. The 65 GT or "pony" interior did, too, but your car shows no sign of that. The quarter emblems are 65 only, as you point out. Go with the 65 "C" code VIN you already have, it'll make things easy. You can either go with the 66 cluster you have, just make sure any new wiring you buy is 66.

 

[crawlina]

Remove the back seat and look at the floor pan. 65 cars have an indention for the parking brake cable. It's kind of like a "C" or a bent "l". It doesn't have much of a bend but is a bit curved to help guide the parking brake cable. 66 didn't models didn't have this. Check to see if the panel is still original. Look at the welds. There are replacement panels that have the curve that I spoke about for 65-70 but really are correct for 65 and just work for 66-70. Here's a link that shows the photo of what I'm talking about. http://www.championmustang.com/images/Sheet Metal_Body Parts/M131LH.jpg. Also I know of a promo code that helps save you a decent about of your shipping cost on parts. The company is Champion Mustang and their promo code is "THANKYOU2009". If anyone else knows any other promo codes post them so we can all benefit.

 

[hungrymonkey]

I know that my 67 has vins stamped on both inner fender aprons. It is probably the same as 65/66.

There should be a cut out on the fender, where it mounts to the apron on the drivers side, on the passengers side it will be hidden under the fender.

 

[shoguun]

looks like a 66

 

[Wicked65]

Remove the back seat and look at the floor pan. 65 cars have an indention for the parking brake cable. It's kind of like a "C" or a bent "l". It doesn't have much of a bend but is a bit curved to help guide the parking brake cable. Here's a link that shows the photo of what I'm talking about. http://www.championmustang.com/images/Sheet Metal_Body Parts/M131LH.jpg.

Ahhh.. The part that i took a Sledge hammer and beat the hell out of to flatten down, so i could bolt the leaf spring relocation brackets down..

 

[2+2GT]

Ahhh.. The part that i took a Sledge hammer and beat the hell out of to flatten down, so i could bolt the leaf spring relocation brackets down..

Ah, I assume you first removed the e-brake cables.

 

[StangDaddy66]

I had almost the same problem with the hundred different VIN's. Thankfully the title was in order still.

 

[2+2GT]

And why do you say the buck tag is useless?

Although it probably is the real VIN of the car, it has no legal standing whatever. I say it's probably the real number, because of the three VINs present, it's the only 6 cylinder VIN, while the apron and door show C code V8, the wheels, motor mounts, and trans are all 6 cylinder. Unless the title matches the tag, he's gonna have to find a real cooperative tag agent. And he'll still be stuck with no VIN on the LF apron, where it should be.

 

[Wicked65]

Ah, I assume you first removed the e-brake cables.

No E brake.. Had my 8.8 rear end already in..