Inexpensive (relatively) radiator options?

SadbutTrue

Founding Member
May 1, 2002
2,390
4
49
Granada Hills, California
I've determined that my radiator (an 'enhanced' 2-core from NPD thats supposed to perform somewhat better than stock) is a steaming piece of crap. Its a year and a half old and has cracked all along the top, and now that I have the heads/cam/etc build it appears simply incapable of getting rid of excess engine heat.

I overheat pretty predictably in traffic, and if I get on it hard for more than a few seconds even once, it'll overheat and even if i cruise down the highway at 65 in 5th on a 70 degree day it doesn't bleed the heat off. :(

So anyway, I need a better radiator (if I'm going to enjoy my car). I plan on getting the NPD deep fan shroud and a police interceptor water pump from NAPA (D Hearne recommended that a while back). I don't have the cash to drop $600 on a Griffen, though Rusty67 said that some companies make comparable radiators for $200-300. He specifically mentioned Northern Radiators, though I'm open to anything that people have had good experiences with.

I am aware I'm working with a 66' and that its limited by design. If it isn't particularly hard (or if I could get a shop to reasonably do it) I'd be willing to modify it to accept a 67-70 size radiator, but I don't know how to weld so I'm figuring its out of the question.

So yeah... what options do i have? Thanks!
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I changed out the 17 inch model on my 66 to a 20 inch aluminum radiator made for a 67.
I cut 1 1/2 inches from each side of the radiator support to open it up.
Also added a recovery tank for the overflow.
Car will now sit in traffic and 100 degree weather without getting hot.
Pictures of my cooling system and information:
Cooling

Good luck and be safe
Ron
 
I have found that a 3-row brass with shroud and thermal clutch fan, and manual shutoff valve in the heater hose will take pretty much anything to throw at it. Mine is a 289HP bored .030" with OEM AC, and it'll take just about anything I throw at it.
 
here's what i did. didn't cost much more then $250 if i remember right. scroll a couple posts down and you'll see my pics.

if anything, it runs TOO cool in the winter. never use the fan if it's below 75 out, unless i'm stuck in traffic.

in 110 heat, it can get to 190-210 in gridlock, but never ever gets hotter then that. i'm surprised because that fan i have i got for free. it's a tripac. undersized and underrated. does the trick though, amazingly enough.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/743521-new-radiator-help.html
 
Summit/Northern

You can get Northern radiators from Summit - I'm removing the battery and going with about a 27" wide one with a dual fan that covers the entire core surface. Don't have the price in front of me, but it was a pretty good deal IIRC.

Even if I don't open up the core support when I install it, the extra width can't hurt, as it is a crossflow radiator and (I assume) the water will flow down the area that's not open to the front, have cold(er) air than the water inside the engine flowing across it, so there will be an initial small cooling effect, then when it goes across the area that's open to the front, a more drastic cooling effect, then down to the bottom on the other side. The wider radiator allowed me to fit a larger, higher CFM dual fan so that made the decision on the width. Summit part as well. I can look up both if you're interested.

It's not much better than Chris66dad's setup, but the extra width can't hurt - I imagine I'll get his level of cooling capability plus a little more.
 
Here's what I did for my 347...
 

Attachments

  • IM001080.JPG
    IM001080.JPG
    66.1 KB · Views: 138
  • IM001151.JPG
    IM001151.JPG
    67.4 KB · Views: 108
Check out Alumitech Reproductions. Great guy to work with and reasonable prices for a good product. Call him about Ford cause his website only shows Chevy. MY car was running 219 in 90 degree wx now it runs with the thermostat at 180.