yeah its a little wierd but my A/C blows cold while my car is moving, when I come to a stop it gets warm then gets cold again when I start moving. What is this?
Sounds like your clutch is stuck. The pressure switch engages it. The clutch engages the piston to create pressure. Tell me somthing does your car lose horsepower when you turn you A/C on. If not then your clutch is stuck.
Dude I gotta disagree with trombone. Correct me if I'm wrong.
It sounds to me like you are low on freon. If your clutch is cycling faster than normal than it is low on freon more than likely. Also, check to make sure your cooling fan is coming on, if not than that would also explain the A/C loss of cooling because the condenser needs air to exchange the heat. Make sense?
It could also be that your compressor is not creating the pressure it needs to cool at idle, which in that case it would mean you would need a compressor. I would check the simple things first, and if you don't have access to manifold gauges then I would take it to a shop and have them check it. It may save you money in the long run. Good luck bud.
He said he gets cool air only when the car moves, what does that got to do with cooling fan. Plus theres a ticking noise like when the clutch is trying to engage or disengage. When the clutch engages it ticks one time them engages the piston. The ticking could the clutch trying to disengage when there is enough pressure for the air conditon to work without the piston in effect. I mean, you can check your pressures yea I would start with that if your compressor is making noise then thats the problem. How do you exlplain the no loss of horsepower when the a/c is turned on. Even if I was wrong if, your compressor is making noise then its time for a new one. Cooling fan has nothing to do with the noise out the compressor, just the condenser in front of the radiator. Never hurts to check all those things the guys mention but, it certainly sounds like your compressor is always on and the clutch is trying to disengage. Good luck.Stangnet.
Yea, we kind need some specific information, kind of hard to dianose some problems w/o knowing some specifics. I think he will be ok, depending on how deep his pockets is, its not the most expensive thing that could happen. Freon is going to leak no matter what, R-13a just leaks slower than R-12. Why would the clutch not broken if keeps ticking. Like its trying to disengage and engage repeatedly.
First of all, it's R-134a, not R-13a.
Second of all, the molecules of R-134a are smaller than the R-12 molecules, which is why you should replace any rubber lines with updated pieces on some retrofits. The rubber used with R-12 has larger pores and allows the R-134a to escape easier. This is the ONLY time freon would leak without a failure in a more recent automotive application.
Third, freon doesn't just leak. There is ALWAYS a failure that causes the leak. Does your radiator leak "no matter what"? No, they are sealed systems and only leak when there is a failure. Same thing with any of the fluids.
Last, please stop giving bad advice when it is clear that you don't know what you are talking about. There is NOTHING wrong with his compressor clutch as it disengages and re-engages fine as tested through the low pressure cycling switch. You could cause him to spend $1k+ on a compressor job that he may not need.
To the OP, if you can, please get a good set of gauges hooked up to it. Then report back to us with the static pressure and the running pressures (high and low side). This will help us determine what your next step is.