What are some good rear control arms?
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Nik_95Cobra
Founding Member
Adam95GT
New Member
MotiV8ed_95GT
Member
UMI here. Made in the USA and very affordable. Got a good deal on them direct from UMI @ Carlisle. No issues yet.
Ross
Ross
They are great guys at UMI. They are local to me and I know a few of the guys that work there. their stuff seems to be more drag oriented, but they are constantly adding new products based on demand. i've been trying to get them to make a 3 link setup for our cars like evolution used to have.
If you have a corral account contact artsparts (or ARTS PERFORMANCE PARTS) and ask him for a shipped quote on any MM part.
Steeda's stuff is Made in USA. I've used Pro-Form (which is an off-brand like 50 resto's economy kit) and I had no issues. I had them on a bolt-on notchback, but they were just as good of quality as my HPM Mega-Bite's. I paid 179 for the set of 4 and my darn Mega-Bites were 239 for just 2 lowers only.
blksn955.o
Founding Member
If you want the top of the line/best part for your money. MM or teamZ are probably at the top depending on what your looking for.
If your looking for budget...I went UPR and am happy with them. If I was going to spend some money MM or Team Z would be were I would look. Not really 100% sure if UPR is 100% american made...I want to say yes, not sure though.
If your looking for budget...I went UPR and am happy with them. If I was going to spend some money MM or Team Z would be were I would look. Not really 100% sure if UPR is 100% american made...I want to say yes, not sure though.
GTA_V6_Mustang
Active Member
im runnin a set of Mega bite lowers, i think i got them for like 125, but they were used with about 6000k miles on it... theyre awesome IMHO
S351Saleen77
Member
I have Griggs on #77.
On #58 I just put J&M arms on, the price is VERY good also!
J&M is a sponser here and the owner was one of the original owners of MM I guess. Anyway they are a 3 piece bushing so they don't bind...just like MM and Steeda's don't bind because of the bushing design. This is what you need if you are taking corners. Drag only can use the 2 piece bushings design but it does not let it articulate which is o.k. for a straight line. I had a old set of Hotchkis and sold them because of the 2 piece design. Notice below how 10 degrees of rotation only put 41.7 ft lbs of torque Vs. a 2 piece which at 10deg rotation snapped a 1/2" grade 8 bolt. Lots of stress on the torque boxes with 2 piece poly bushings.
Rear Lower Control Arms
Here is some info from their site,
"3 Piece Poly-Ball Bushing on Chassis & Axle Side
The control arm bushings found in the Mustang automobiles can have a significant impact on the vehicle’s ride, comfort, handling, acceleration, noise and vibration. When the car leans (i.e., rolls) in a turn, one side of the chassis moves upward relative to the rear axle, the other side moves downward, and the control arms must twist to allow for the axle to articulate. This causes the control arm bushings to bind. If this bind becomes excessive, it will raise the rear wheel rate and produce sudden, uncontrolled, undesirable changes in handling (e.g., snap oversteer).
Ford minimizes this suspension bind by using compliant rubber bushings in both lower control arms. These relatively "soft" bushings help accommodate the necessary motion of the control arms during body roll. However, the rubber bushings do not provide much in the way of forward and aft support, which can cause wheel hop during hard acceleration and braking.
It has become common practice to replace the stock rubber control arm bushings with solid or two piece polyurethane bushings to resolve the shortcomings of the soft rubber bushings. Hard polyurethane bushings eliminate wheel hop, reduce axle deflection, and improve rear straight line grip. However, the downside of common aftermarket bushings such as delrin, steel, stiffer rubber, solid or two piece polyurethane bushings is they prevent the necessary movement of the control arms during body roll, which in turn produces significant binding in the suspension when the vehicle is cornering. The polyurethane bushings also place unnecessary high stresses on the torque boxes, which are the attachment points for the control arms to the chassis. Standard aftermarket control arms do not allow for rotation of the control arm during cornering because of the stiffness of the bushings.
The Solution:
We at J&M Products designed and built a tubular lower control arm which will eliminate the unwanted uncontrolled control arm flex. Round tubing is harder to work with but has many other advantages over square or rectangular tubing. It is stronger in bending, torsion, and also lighter than square or rectangular tubing.
We then solved the shortcomings of the factory rubber and other aftermarket polyurethane and stiffer rubber bushings. This was accomplished with our Patent Pending 3 piece Poly-Ball bushing combination. By spending countless hours looking and dissecting the geometry and the need of the rear suspension we come out with bind-free bushings set up. Our Patent Pending Poly-Ball bushing combination incorporates a very hard inner polyurethane ball which is surrounded by soft socket outer cups. This combination allows the bushing to articulate like a spherical bearing during cornering but the hard inner ball does not allow the bushing to deflect during acceleration giving you great traction during acceleration like solid bushings but remains completely bind free like a spherical bearing during cornering for great predictable traction in the corners.
The Testing:
We built a fixture which simulated a factory control arm mounting and tested how much force was needed to make the control arm articulate (twist) in those mounts and the results where astounding.
Poly-Ball Bushings:
5 degrees of total rotation = 26.1 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 35.8 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = 41.7 foot/pounds of torque
Standard 2 piece setup using only 85 durometer bushings:
5 degrees of total rotation = 124.7 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 156.4 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = not measurable with fixture. The 1/2" grade 8 bolt twisted in half at 9.2 degrees which was 210 foot/pounds of torque. "
On #58 I just put J&M arms on, the price is VERY good also!
J&M is a sponser here and the owner was one of the original owners of MM I guess. Anyway they are a 3 piece bushing so they don't bind...just like MM and Steeda's don't bind because of the bushing design. This is what you need if you are taking corners. Drag only can use the 2 piece bushings design but it does not let it articulate which is o.k. for a straight line. I had a old set of Hotchkis and sold them because of the 2 piece design. Notice below how 10 degrees of rotation only put 41.7 ft lbs of torque Vs. a 2 piece which at 10deg rotation snapped a 1/2" grade 8 bolt. Lots of stress on the torque boxes with 2 piece poly bushings.
Rear Lower Control Arms
Here is some info from their site,
"3 Piece Poly-Ball Bushing on Chassis & Axle Side
The control arm bushings found in the Mustang automobiles can have a significant impact on the vehicle’s ride, comfort, handling, acceleration, noise and vibration. When the car leans (i.e., rolls) in a turn, one side of the chassis moves upward relative to the rear axle, the other side moves downward, and the control arms must twist to allow for the axle to articulate. This causes the control arm bushings to bind. If this bind becomes excessive, it will raise the rear wheel rate and produce sudden, uncontrolled, undesirable changes in handling (e.g., snap oversteer).
Ford minimizes this suspension bind by using compliant rubber bushings in both lower control arms. These relatively "soft" bushings help accommodate the necessary motion of the control arms during body roll. However, the rubber bushings do not provide much in the way of forward and aft support, which can cause wheel hop during hard acceleration and braking.
It has become common practice to replace the stock rubber control arm bushings with solid or two piece polyurethane bushings to resolve the shortcomings of the soft rubber bushings. Hard polyurethane bushings eliminate wheel hop, reduce axle deflection, and improve rear straight line grip. However, the downside of common aftermarket bushings such as delrin, steel, stiffer rubber, solid or two piece polyurethane bushings is they prevent the necessary movement of the control arms during body roll, which in turn produces significant binding in the suspension when the vehicle is cornering. The polyurethane bushings also place unnecessary high stresses on the torque boxes, which are the attachment points for the control arms to the chassis. Standard aftermarket control arms do not allow for rotation of the control arm during cornering because of the stiffness of the bushings.
The Solution:
We at J&M Products designed and built a tubular lower control arm which will eliminate the unwanted uncontrolled control arm flex. Round tubing is harder to work with but has many other advantages over square or rectangular tubing. It is stronger in bending, torsion, and also lighter than square or rectangular tubing.
We then solved the shortcomings of the factory rubber and other aftermarket polyurethane and stiffer rubber bushings. This was accomplished with our Patent Pending 3 piece Poly-Ball bushing combination. By spending countless hours looking and dissecting the geometry and the need of the rear suspension we come out with bind-free bushings set up. Our Patent Pending Poly-Ball bushing combination incorporates a very hard inner polyurethane ball which is surrounded by soft socket outer cups. This combination allows the bushing to articulate like a spherical bearing during cornering but the hard inner ball does not allow the bushing to deflect during acceleration giving you great traction during acceleration like solid bushings but remains completely bind free like a spherical bearing during cornering for great predictable traction in the corners.
The Testing:
We built a fixture which simulated a factory control arm mounting and tested how much force was needed to make the control arm articulate (twist) in those mounts and the results where astounding.
Poly-Ball Bushings:
5 degrees of total rotation = 26.1 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 35.8 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = 41.7 foot/pounds of torque
Standard 2 piece setup using only 85 durometer bushings:
5 degrees of total rotation = 124.7 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 156.4 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = not measurable with fixture. The 1/2" grade 8 bolt twisted in half at 9.2 degrees which was 210 foot/pounds of torque. "
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