Old alarm. Cause of all the probs?
- Thread starter miller92063
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Car alarms generally cause a disaster zone of electrical problems when they get old. I would make sure you pick every part of that old alarm system out. What problems are you having with it?
Kurt
Kurt
earleys94gt
Active Member
Depending on the complexity of the old system, i.e. remote start, it could be the source.
Like Kurt said, what are your problems?
Like Kurt said, what are your problems?
If you had a starter interrupt and the relay was yanked but the wiring was not restored (between the normally-closed and common relay terminals on the starter kill), that could cause a no-crank situation. Ditto if the relay socket was yanked but the cut interlock wires were not restored.
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
Exactly what Hissin said. You'll see wires of the same color/size that should go together, but are running into harnesses/connectors of the alarm. You'll simply cut the alarm plugs and wiring out of the picture and connect the car's wiring back together. I'm sure if you're under there messing with electrical systems, you know the proper way to restore a connection, correct?
These alarm systems are generally installed by 18 year old snot nose kids at Best Buy. They wouldn't know what a soldering iron was if you showed it to them. The ignition kill is generally a single wire that is clipped into the ignition circuit under the dash. You will most likely find it attached by a tap connector that has become corroded, but I have seen the wire just stripped of it's installation and the other wire just wrapped around with some electric tape. If you look around you are going to find a bunch of wires poorly reconnected as a result of that alarm installation.
Kurt
Kurt
Bought the car in 05. Found the non properly working alarm system and ripped it out. I pulled the main computer and the siren. that's all I remember removing.
The car, last year, died and would not restart./ crank crank crank, but no start. Last week the car started. I drove it for about two hours, then went home and put it away for the night. went out the next day to start it and crank crank crank, but no start. WTF!
I have checked nearly everything then rememered the alarm. Could I have missed something with the wiring that suddenly kicked in and started F'n with me?
The car, last year, died and would not restart./ crank crank crank, but no start. Last week the car started. I drove it for about two hours, then went home and put it away for the night. went out the next day to start it and crank crank crank, but no start. WTF!
I have checked nearly everything then rememered the alarm. Could I have missed something with the wiring that suddenly kicked in and started F'n with me?
Fuel pressure goes up, but drops down due to what i believe is an injector stuck open.
When it wont start there is no spark at the plugs or the coil. If the coil is bad will there be spark at the coil still?
What about the little silver thing next to the coil? Think I know but not sure.
Power is at the injectors at start.
When it wont start there is no spark at the plugs or the coil. If the coil is bad will there be spark at the coil still?
What about the little silver thing next to the coil? Think I know but not sure.
Power is at the injectors at start.
You can put a test light across both terminals at the coil's electrical plug and look for the light to flash while cranking. If it does but you don't have spark, the coil should be bad. If you don't have a flashing test light, the issue is upstream.
The injectors receive constant 12V with the key on. The ground to them is pulsed (via the EEC). Use a noid light or LED test light to test for flashing of the injectors while cranking (similar to how you checked for the light to flash at the coil).
The injectors receive constant 12V with the key on. The ground to them is pulsed (via the EEC). Use a noid light or LED test light to test for flashing of the injectors while cranking (similar to how you checked for the light to flash at the coil).
The issue would not be all of the injectors, but something like wiring or a bad TPS/TPS wiring. That's why doing the diagnostics is important.
The parts need to be tested in real time as the car won't catch. If you've done that with some of these components, you can probably rule them out.
Upstream of the coil is the TFI, EEC, PIP, and wiring.
The parts need to be tested in real time as the car won't catch. If you've done that with some of these components, you can probably rule them out.
Upstream of the coil is the TFI, EEC, PIP, and wiring.
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