I'm not a sellout BUT.........

[Winters98GT]

Yes, drilled rotors are not for the road coarse. More of a bling factor.

If you don't plan on running the car on spray, the ls7 clutch is the way to go. It can hold 650-700hp, and is great on the street. However, it glazes over and sucks at the strip. It's very temperamental to hard launches, and slips on the 1-2 shift.

 

[hotstang_46]

Winters, Out of curiosity, what is H Town, haven't heard that one. i like the look of your set up there. My rotors are just slotted.

it amazes me that IF I were to ever use those shots that they'd be empty after a few hits. Those bottles are large, they look like scuba tanks that divers use


As for the bucking, your guys speculation is dissapointing on why it's happening. It happens likes this...... the car is fully engaged (say in first) and cruising in traffic at say 10mph. The only way to avoid when holding a steady speed @ 2k or under it is to slip the clutch. However when taking off you can fully engage the car in gear with say the rpms around 1100 and accelerate through that 2k barrier, but if you let off before that mark without disengaging the clutch it will buck. All this pretty much quits in fourth. You can cruise 1500rpm in fourth all day long. This would not be the clutch then right? since it's fully engaged when it's happeneing. I was hoping it would be a tune issue (getting a tune anyway so my guy can take a look). It's not that big of a deal, heck I've already learned how to slip the clutch around it, but it just doesn't feel right doing that in traffic.

Cam is custom ground, he's going to find the specs and get them to me later, I'll post up when I get them.

The clutch is actually the exact same that's going in the stang. It's a spec stage 3+. Will my mustang go through the same thing by having the vt stge ii cams? I sure hope the heck not. That would suck....

 

[LaserSVT]

I am fairly certain its the clutch. The reason you dont feel it in4th is you are going fast enough where the inertia of the car diminishes the effect to the point where you dont really feel it. I bet third is less jerky then second and second less sothen first. Spec stage 3 is a grabby clutch.
Now are you sure its a 3+ or just a stage 3? Cqause the stage 3 is a 6-puck and will be lousy on the street. Another issue would be if it has a light aluminum fly wheel. If it does then switching to a stock steel on would help a TON.
Again, just an inertia thing.

 

[Winters98GT]

Winters, Out of curiosity, what is H Town, haven't heard that one

Houston

 

[hotstang_46]

positive the vette has a spec stage 3+ clutch AND flywheel

the stang is getting a spec stage 3+ AND Fidanza billet flywheel



so I'm looking at the same garbage with the mustang right? I didn't realize this when ordering parts for the stang. I was simply going off how many people have had good success with that clutch in high horse apps.

 

[Winters98GT]

positive the vette has a spec stage 3+ clutch AND flywheel

the stang is getting a spec stage 3+ AND Fidanza billet flywheel



so I'm looking at the same garbage with the mustang right? I didn't realize this when ordering parts for the stang. I was simply going off how many people have had good success with that clutch in high horse apps.

yes, I would stay away from them. I drove an 03 h/c/i car making 440rwhp with a spec 3 in it. It was horrendous.

I had a spec 2+ in my 1998 GT, and it was garbage as well.

 

[02LaserRed2V]

spec 3+ in my GT is smooth and holds well. No chatter whatsoever either.

Spec clutches in GM cars seem to fail a lot more for some reason. So no, they're not the same.

also, don't get spec 3 and 3+ confused. They're two completely different clutches, 3+ being the newer and much improved one.

 

[hotstang_46]

spec 3+ in my GT is smooth and holds well. No chatter whatsoever either.

Spec clutches in GM cars seem to fail a lot more for some reason. So no, they're not the same.

also, don't get spec 3 and 3+ confused. They're two completely different clutches, 3+ being the newer and much improved one.

well, good to hear you don't have a problem with your gt


and ya.....they are both 3+

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

10.5:1 is a bit of a tall bill for a blower. For a PD blower 8.5-8.8:1 seems to be favored, centri is like 8.9-9.3, turbo anywhere from 9-10+:1. This is just what's desired when building for these FI pieces.
You'll need a good amount of richening/fuel thrown at it with a responsible meth tune and it shouldn't be a problem. Just don't get greedy - should be fine.

 

[LaserSVT]

Thats what I was saying. With forged internals running 9-10 psi at that compression should be very safe with a proper tune.

 

[hotstang_46]

well, I'd hate to post up vette stuff on here but I'll keep you guys updated by resurrecting this thread if you're interested. It will obviously take some time to figure out what's going on and what I want to do. I'll have some more info on the car once my guy does some fine tuning on the dyno after adding full time meth instead of just with the shot (he still thinks the "bucking" is in the tune).

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

Thats what I was saying.

I don't read your posts. It's all nonsense. I was lucky enough to glance and even see this

 

[1low03gt]

Nice sweet toy!!Love that hood on her,and sounds great!

 

[LaserSVT]

I don't read your posts. It's all nonsense. I was lucky enough to glance and even see this

Oh yeah!? Well your mother sews sweat socks!