Well I'm going for it !! all out !!

Well I turned in the plates and dropped the insurance on my Cobra > I'm going to go all out on her> really > I spent just over $500 on her at Englishtown swap meet last weekend. I bought Maxium Motorsports lower control arms with the spirical bearings and a set of Eiback 2in drop springs ,and the STEEDA adjustable clutch cable kit . the arms and rear springs went on today and tomorrow the cable kit will go in.
I am pulling the motor to build a (Cobra) motor for it >
:shrug: MY QUESTION IS > would you swap out the engine cradle for a tubed light weight one ??
I've been looking threw my hot-rod mags and have found a few that will let me keep the factory front a-arms but still give me room for motor work and bigger oil pan, headers> ect.
I'm not going to put the front springs in till i decide what I'm going to do > the car will bedown till spring more than likely so time is on my side and i kinda like the idea of the nose of my snake loosing some weight . whats your take ??? :shrug:
 
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I think before you start building you should take some time to seriously consider your budget and your plans for the car. This way you will only buy the parts you need.

Make a plan and work to the plan.
 
my plan is build a honda killer> I plan on 500hp with nitrous and I want to run low 12's
> there will be no buget restraints > winters here so i will ether be at work or camping on my couch> I HATE WINTER > I've started digging out anything I can sell to put toward building my Cobra > Craig's list is going to love me today> hahahahah
I want the car low > I got it there > but if you were building a daily driver would you do a after market engine cradle ?
 
thats GREAT ( SWEET ) :cool: now I just need to get the right combo and keep it streetable and i'm good to go !
I changed out the STEEDA clutch quadrent earlyer > thought it was going to be a big drawn out thing > was done in five min's > now I want to do the front springs but am going to hate doing it twice when I get a k-member :nice: I did pull my motor stand out of the shed today going to start pulling the motor tonight or tomorow.
 
thats GREAT ( SWEET ) :cool: now I just need to get the right combo and keep it streetable and i'm good to go !
I changed out the STEEDA clutch quadrent earlyer > thought it was going to be a big drawn out thing > was done in five min's > now I want to do the front springs but am going to hate doing it twice when I get a k-member :nice: I did pull my motor stand out of the shed today going to start pulling the motor tonight or tomorow.
IMO nitrous would be the best streetable option if you plan on using it on the strip a lot... Say you're making 275 on the motor, you can spray a 100 shot and hit 12's all day at the track, and still have 275 on the street. In Florida, that's a big plus in the rain! :nice:
 
^:hail2:I really wan to get down in to the 12's this year > But like I said above I'm slowly gathering goodys for my car I have long tube's and I just put lower control arms and drop springs on .
My buddy is hung up on me fixing the motor thats in it and just throwing in a new clutch and spraying the crap out of it till it blows > which is a idea thats starting to grow on my every time I hear a honda go by while I'm cruzing the MINI VAN :mad::mad: i'm hunting for gears and a K-member that will let me keep the factory A-arms for now I want the extra room around my motor .
 
I dont think you should blow your motor, your block is a great foundation.

I like the Idea of a lighter weight K memeber as well, although my reason is for a lighter weight and better balanced car for the twisties.

I disagree with the notion of nitrous however, its pricey to build these motors N/A in the first place (so you'd sacrifice constant power), and with an F/I set up instead, youd beat up on honda's whenever you wanted, meet your low 12's - high 11 goals, and still be very streetable.

I know its a random tangent because you were just asking about a k-member, but the best option I've heard of for these cars is forged rods and pistons (the factory crank is fine) and boosting them to whatever you want. Granted thats one sentence to explain a big process but its essentially the theory. Nitrous may work for you, but thats just my thoughts (i favor twisties over straight line and would prefer a higher torque curve all the time than relying on a bottle, so I'm biased)
 
^ I'm going to build it to the best of both worlds I love hitting the curves too but I have a new love right now and it's the 1/4 mile > Iland raceway is my fav stomping ground right now > I'm in the works for a REAL 8 bolt crank cobra motor right now and I'm going to hown the walls and stuff some forged rods and molly rings with forged 10:1 pistons in it fly cut for cams > I have been spraying 100 wet shot in my cobra and love it > my buddys heavly modified 03 and my cobra are in a dead even match till I turn on the bottle > he put $4000 in his car to beat mine and I put a used $250 Nitrous kit on mine and can KILL his car . I'm very Interested in the K-member set up but I'm hearing two diffrent sides of the coin hear . One says I will have to move my oil coolert/ filter to run a after market K-member but others say I won't DOES anyone KNOW ??????? has anyone put one on there COBRA ??????
 
^ I'm going to build it to the best of both worlds I love hitting the curves too but I have a new love right now and it's the 1/4 mile > Iland raceway is my fav stomping ground right now > I'm in the works for a REAL 8 bolt crank cobra motor right now and I'm going to hown the walls and stuff some forged rods and molly rings with forged 10:1 pistons in it fly cut for cams > I have been spraying 100 wet shot in my cobra and love it > my buddys heavly modified 03 and my cobra are in a dead even match till I turn on the bottle > he put $4000 in his car to beat mine and I put a used $250 Nitrous kit on mine and can KILL his car . I'm very Interested in the K-member set up but I'm hearing two diffrent sides of the coin hear . One says I will have to move my oil coolert/ filter to run a after market K-member but others say I won't DOES anyone KNOW ??????? has anyone put one on there COBRA ??????
hey jeremy ive got the full qa-1 tubular in my car with no problems except for the little pegs on motor mounts must grind them down
 
how hard was it to install ??
wasnt bad you just basically need to hold your motor up. mark the position of old one then unbolt struts unbolt k member use jack stands to hold car and jack to hold k member shes heavy maybe few other things might need to come off but thats basically it like your rack pinion but install back as close to marks so its straight bolt up .after its done you need to get an alignment you really need caster camber plates.
 
I planed on the caster/camber plates> I'm dropping it almost 2 inch's . I found a Qa1 on Fle-bay new for $200.00 plus shipping was going to use my stock control arms till I have the cash to buy tube one's > the car's off the road till spring for a motor build so I have plenty of time to put it together .
hey good luck with the build .if you have any problems or need advice give me a shout my email is [email protected]
 
I'm working two days over this week > 24 hours of O/T so that should help with the payment and shipping . I've been shopping for rods and pistons and I've added a few to my wish list :) this week heating oil for my house hit me so hopefully next week will be better for my wish list > THANK GOD MY WIFE finally got a job she starts tomorrow after over a year not working . things might be looking up for the wounded snake in the near future > it just stinks that it's time to pull it off for the winter !! but I'll have lots of time to get it ready for spring>