T5 swap In progress! A few Questions...
- Thread starter DiabloDan
- Start date
ch switch under the dash?
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liljoe07
5 Year Member
That plug to the far right hagging is not what he is talking about. from that picture, you cant see them
I know thats not the one he is talking about, but I still cant for the life of me, figure out what that plug hanging down is suppose to go to...I think I disconnected it when I took the steering wheel out...dont think it was just loose in there before...
So anywher, I just tried to start my car...I assumed that since I had the clutch pedal in the car, I would have to push it in to start the car because of the saftly switch....
But my car still starts with the clutch not depressed.
There was only one saftly switch on the clutch pedal assembley right?
The one with the little plunger on it?
liljoe07
5 Year Member
If your talking about the grey connector hanging by the gas pedal. It looks like the one for the Cruise control shutoff when the clutch pedal is pushed down.
Two plugs for the Clutch saftey switch. Black one is for the starter relay trigger. White or Grey plug will be for the In Gear or In Nuetral signal to the EEC. If the black one has the jumper in it. It will start with out the clutch down.
Two plugs for the Clutch saftey switch. Black one is for the starter relay trigger. White or Grey plug will be for the In Gear or In Nuetral signal to the EEC. If the black one has the jumper in it. It will start with out the clutch down.
Ok...
First:
I was talking about the black connector hanging down on the right side of that picture. I figured out where it went, it went on the top of the steering column, right next to the cable that stops you from taking it out of gear with the key not in the ignition.
So...thats solved.
Second:
I just looked around and ....apparently there are suppose to be two sensors on the pedal assembly?
The only one I have is the one that the quadrant pushes down when the clutch isn't being pressed.
Apparently there is suppose to be another one on the other side of the pedal assembly?
Is...that something I can order and put on without taking everything back appart, I really...dont feel like going threw all that again and taking the pedal assembly out. But hey, might be easier the 2nd time.
Or...what if I just, leave that sensor off? I know it will start even with the clutch engaged but...what about that signal to the EEC? How important is that?
My pedals!
First:
I was talking about the black connector hanging down on the right side of that picture. I figured out where it went, it went on the top of the steering column, right next to the cable that stops you from taking it out of gear with the key not in the ignition.
So...thats solved.
Second:
I just looked around and ....apparently there are suppose to be two sensors on the pedal assembly?
The only one I have is the one that the quadrant pushes down when the clutch isn't being pressed.
Apparently there is suppose to be another one on the other side of the pedal assembly?
Is...that something I can order and put on without taking everything back appart, I really...dont feel like going threw all that again and taking the pedal assembly out. But hey, might be easier the 2nd time.
Or...what if I just, leave that sensor off? I know it will start even with the clutch engaged but...what about that signal to the EEC? How important is that?
My pedals!
liljoe07
5 Year Member
Posted via Mobile Device
The actual CPS is right above the clutch pedal.
Just put a jumper in the White plug also. Till you get it sorted out. This will make the EEC think its in neutral all the time, and won't cause any idle issues.
The actual CPS is right above the clutch pedal.
Just put a jumper in the White plug also. Till you get it sorted out. This will make the EEC think its in neutral all the time, and won't cause any idle issues.
Yeah, right above the clutch pedal there is just like, a threaded bolt sticking out.
Looks like something slides over it and a nut goes on it.
That where the sensor goes?
Is it easy to put it on there without taking everything all back apart?
What happens If I just leave the jumper in there? Why does it matter if the EEC knows its in neutral?
Will it harm the car to drive it that way for a while? This is the car I drive daily to college and work.
Looks like something slides over it and a nut goes on it.
That where the sensor goes?
Is it easy to put it on there without taking everything all back apart?
What happens If I just leave the jumper in there? Why does it matter if the EEC knows its in neutral?
Will it harm the car to drive it that way for a while? This is the car I drive daily to college and work.
liljoe07
5 Year Member
Posted via Mobile Device
Won't harm the car at all to install a jumper in the white plug. The ECM has different Timing and fuel requirements for when the car is in gear. So when you are at idle, and the ECM thinks the car is in gear, it will cause idle problems, mostly surging. Thus the reason why its better to force a permanent"In Neutral" state, to eliminate that.
Won't harm the car at all to install a jumper in the white plug. The ECM has different Timing and fuel requirements for when the car is in gear. So when you are at idle, and the ECM thinks the car is in gear, it will cause idle problems, mostly surging. Thus the reason why its better to force a permanent"In Neutral" state, to eliminate that.
If you need a jumper, a blade fuse fits in there perfectly. A small band of electrical tape and it's not going anywhere.
That's how i have mine setup now because my clutch safety switch is bad and I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove it from the pedal to replace it
That's how i have mine setup now because my clutch safety switch is bad and I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove it from the pedal to replace it
Awesome! Thanks! A fuse with duck tape is what I will do! Good to know it wont cause problems!
I got the Auto out of my car tonight at class. Installed the pilote bearing and throwout bearing. Got the resurfaced flywheel on there, clutch disk, and pressure plate.
Anyway...
I noticed that the metal plate with he rubber on the bottom that fits over the shifter hole, that I took out out the 93 doner car...the holes don't line up with the hole that held the auto shifter in
So I'm going to just put the manual tranny in, then slide the cover thing over the shifter in nutral, mark the holes and drill them out and bolt it on.
Unless...anyone has a better idea!
I got the Auto out of my car tonight at class. Installed the pilote bearing and throwout bearing. Got the resurfaced flywheel on there, clutch disk, and pressure plate.
Anyway...
I noticed that the metal plate with he rubber on the bottom that fits over the shifter hole, that I took out out the 93 doner car...the holes don't line up with the hole that held the auto shifter in
So I'm going to just put the manual tranny in, then slide the cover thing over the shifter in nutral, mark the holes and drill them out and bolt it on.
Unless...anyone has a better idea!
2 ways...1 is factory correct and the other works fine too
factory way is to remove the metal plate welded to the 5-spd trans tunnel, cut the AOD tunnel open and weld in in place. Then the inner boot bolts down fine.
the way that works is to trim the AOD shifter hole so the t-5 shifter can poke through and then drill new holes for the plate. You will see where you need to trim once the t-5 is in
Oh...I haven't gotten far enough yet to notice that the hole needed to be made bigger to let the shifter pop threw.
I just noticed the bolt holes used to hold down the auto shifter didnt match with the rubber seal that encloses the manual shifter
Nuts, hopefully there is something to cut it with at school!
I just noticed the bolt holes used to hold down the auto shifter didnt match with the rubber seal that encloses the manual shifter
Nuts, hopefully there is something to cut it with at school!
