T-lok
- Thread starter The Fang
- Start date
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Don't forget to add friction modifier (4-8oz.) to keep the clutches from sticking and to work smoothly. Personally I will be installing a True Trac. No clutches to have to replace. It's a little more $, but I don't like the idea of having to keep going back into the rear end.
Clutch kit for T-Lok,
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/fms-m-4700-b.jpg
T-Lok internals,
http://image.mustangandfords.com/f/..._snake_charmer_rearend+exploded_posi_view.jpg
T-Lok,
http://www.gpfracing.com/ProdImages/M-4204-F318.jpg
True Trac,
http://www.dc4wd.com/images/randys/True-Trac.jpg
True Trac internals,
http://www.harrop.com.au/site_resources/986/616/image/Truetrac_Exploded_View.JPG
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/fms-m-4700-b.jpg
T-Lok internals,
http://image.mustangandfords.com/f/..._snake_charmer_rearend+exploded_posi_view.jpg
T-Lok,
http://www.gpfracing.com/ProdImages/M-4204-F318.jpg
True Trac,
http://www.dc4wd.com/images/randys/True-Trac.jpg
True Trac internals,
http://www.harrop.com.au/site_resources/986/616/image/Truetrac_Exploded_View.JPG
Yes, I just went through this EXACT decision process myself. I wanted limited slip and steeper gears.
I looked at swapping gears and/or the carrier and it's a bear. And in the end, I still would have a 7.5" rear end. I looked into eaton truetracs as well, but decided to go with the tried and true trac-loc. My one comment re: wearing out, I hear the carbon clutch pack will go 100k miles, or more. I figure after the first clutch pack goes, I'll just load up the carbons.
When I looked at how difficult it is to work on the rear end, I ended up buying a 3k 8.8" out of an '07 GT for $350 delivered. I'll be doing the swap and putting in prothane bushings in the next couple of weeks.
I looked at swapping gears and/or the carrier and it's a bear. And in the end, I still would have a 7.5" rear end. I looked into eaton truetracs as well, but decided to go with the tried and true trac-loc. My one comment re: wearing out, I hear the carbon clutch pack will go 100k miles, or more. I figure after the first clutch pack goes, I'll just load up the carbons.
When I looked at how difficult it is to work on the rear end, I ended up buying a 3k 8.8" out of an '07 GT for $350 delivered. I'll be doing the swap and putting in prothane bushings in the next couple of weeks.
tlok
a lot of people have the ford LS. even with SC and NO2 kits. it is a good streetable differential. unless you are planning to go racing every staturday I would not spend the extra cash for others. I'd just add the money to changing gears and all the diff bearings. dont forget the labor charge at about $300.
a lot of people have the ford LS. even with SC and NO2 kits. it is a good streetable differential. unless you are planning to go racing every staturday I would not spend the extra cash for others. I'd just add the money to changing gears and all the diff bearings. dont forget the labor charge at about $300.
Sure, the T-loc works fine. The question is for how long? I know it depends on how you drive it but even if you drive like grandma it will eventually start to slip. Thats what clutches do, they wear. The true trac will not. I plan on driving my car several hundred thousand miles over the next 40 years. I will do this once and be done. 
If you aren't putting a lot of miles on you car then the T-loc will be fine, or if you plan on selling it before it needs rebuilt, no problem. 
If you aren't putting a lot of miles on you car then the T-loc will be fine, or if you plan on selling it before it needs rebuilt, no problem. 
Ken04
New Member
everyone with a GT has it. The T-Loc is the standard LS differential. It is a good unit, time tested. It does have to be rebuilt occasionally depending on use but so do alot of friction parts ie; brakes, clutch, fan belts, tires, etc. For the price it's a good buy, you can rebuild it a few times before you surpass the cost of something else.
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