parasitic drain on battery

Becky19611

New Member
Oct 25, 2009
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Does anyone else have this problem? Have a 2007 Mustang (2 years old this month). Something is draining battery, and Ford dealership can't figure it out. Took it in 3 times now. If I let it sit a day and leave to go to work in the morning, the engine has a extended crank. I have disconnected the remote starts fuses, nothing. Ford gave me a new key(???), nothing. I even took it to my local repair shop last week and they don't see anything wrong with alternator/starter/battery. They think maybe it's a fuel pump problem.

Want to hear from others with same problem. Remote start isn't helping any if I have to physically go outside and start car first, then use remote start! That's kinda defeating the purpose!

Thanks!!
 
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IF if it the shaker, what most folks do is just physically turn the radio/cd player off before opening the door. Sometimes when you open the door after the car is shut off, ( assuming you had the cd player on ) turns off the cd player but the amp still stays on.....
 
Update: rehooked up remote start on Wednesday. Car started fine on Thursday and Friday. Saturday afternoon and Sunday, car was very very sluggish. Maybe the remote is part of the problem, just don't think it's the whole problem.
 
Becky ,is the remote start an aftermarket item ? If it is an aftermarket item it may have been connected differently to a different power source causing the constant drain. Do you park your Mustang in the garage with keys left in ignition? We have an F150 and F350 at work that we leave the keys in the ignition and they both suffer from battery drain,the dealer said to pull the keys from the ignition when they are parked .You probably do not leave keys in car ,but it is another idea .Good luck!
 
Thanks for the message. I don't leave keys in car, but I could see how that would hurt it. And yes, the remote is an aftermarket item. I think Autoco East is tired of seeing me to pull fuses. Doing it again tomorrow. Crap, how I like a nice toasty car.
 
I've come across a similar problem with my 2005 Mustang. However, I believe I found my problem to be that the head unit (Shaker 1000 System) doesn't power off at all.

My battery was dead when I tried to go home from work. When I finally got it home, I went outside to get something out of the car and noticed the clock on the radio still being on. I removed the fuse and plan on taking it to the dealership in the morning, which from what I've read may be a waste of time.

This happened to me about 3 months ago as well. I stepped outside to go to work in the morning and the car wouldn't start. I had everything turned off but the battery was dead. I got the car jumped off, headed to work, and then when I got ready to go home it started fine. I had the battery tested and it came up fine. However, I'm not sure if this previous incident was caused by the radio problem I discovered today.
 
Found out what my issue was. Apparently with the hard rain, some of it leaked inside and screwed up my fuse box. The dealership wanted almost $900 to fix everything. I'm hoping to plug the hole and let that be it. I really don't want to have to replace the fuse box & reprogram the car.
 
When I had to leave my car outside during a very heavy rain, I have had leakage from the window also. My windows are the type that roll down about a half inch when you open the car then roll back up when shut. (not sure what the 2005 model does.) Will have to remember that next time car is in shop to mention that also. Thanks!
 
ok I have a 2006 V6 and today at 38,123 miles had the 3rd battery installed.Living in Alaska Im aware that there can be isues with the vehicle sitting. But this is my daily driver except when there is more than 8 inches of snow. I also own a 1997 F250 with over 110,000 miles on its original battery. Both have after market auto starts professionally fitted. The indications are that there is either an quality issue with the Ford battery or there is an electrical drain in the car.
The company who installed the remote start did a dest and found a draw of 1.3A which disappeared when the power brake fuse was removed. Ford tested and say a bad cell in the battery. Sounds as if there are issues with these cars and power.
 
My second battery didn't come from Ford. I got it at the local parts store. They also tested the battery and said the cells were all fine. Not having as much trouble this winter with it starting since I had the fuses removed from the remote start. However, I sure do miss it. I just gave up.
 
Same problem with 2007 mustang

I also bought a 2007 mustang and having the same issue as Becky, wont start when its cold out due to something draining the battery. Every winter I have to unhook my battery when I get out so it starts the next day. 3 dealerships said nothing is wrong with it, but I know its not my imagination. Anyone figure the problem out?
 
Hoping this will put an end to my story......a few weeks ago, my starter went out with no warning....had to have car towed. Car starting like a dream now, could that have been the problem all along? Going to have fuses reinstalled in remote start in a few weeks, so wish me luck!
 
My 09 is in my garage from winter dead as dead can get...jump it and let run for 20 min, come back 20 min later to try to start it again...dead...

my battery must be crap, I will have to try that turning the shaker off.


First winter I had my car, it sat all winter and started everytime. Now, this winter, it was dead immediately.
 
Bringing back an old thread but.... got a similar problem of a 2007 V6 no shaker... might have found the issue.
The current drain on the battery is 0.13 A, when it should be around 0.05A. So the battery dies if the car isn't used for a while.

I noticed that the front parking lights are always on... (I have LEDs installed instead of normal halogen lamps so they have less resistance and emmit a very very dim light even when the light switch is in the OFF position). I measured about 5V coming through that wire. When I use the headlamp switch to power on the parking lights, the votage goes up to 12V.
So I am guessing that the parking lamps are the causing my drain. After switching it ON and OFF, there was a couple of times when, the LEDs switched of completely and the current drain went to 0.01A.

Checked all the fuses (passenger side and engine bay) and found out that, when fuses for passenger fuse box are pulled out (#57 or #59 and #63 i believe...) then the current drain drops to 0.01A.

So I pulled ALL the fuses and relays from the passenger fuse box and the drain was still at 0.13A.
Next I started pulling the wire connectors one by one from that fuse box and found one, that has the wire with the drain. Only issue - not exactly sure which wire it is, I can't pull them one by one...

So my next guess is that the headlight switch may be faulty and not cutting the power to the parking lights completely... I'm trying that next, will let you know if that helps.