T5 shifting problems, 2nd to 3rd

[Chythar]

This one seems kinda weird to me, but I don't know the T5 well enough to say for sure it's the synchros. This issue just started in the past week or so. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd, sometimes it feels like the gears aren't matched and it feels like a tooth or two on the gears catch before the shifter clicks into gear. Kinda like a "thump" "thump" in the shifter handle when it happens. There are no shudders or any other feelings in the car; this is all felt through the shifter handle. The problem is, it's not consistent; it only happens sometimes. I have yet to be able to reproduce it reliably. I can shift fast or slow, RPM's high or low, rev match or not, and most of the time the shift feels normal.

There are no problems shifting up or down into any other gears. I can skip 2nd (1st to 3rd) without problems. I can shift from 4th to 3rd without a problem. Just 2nd to 3rd.

The clutch starts to engage about 1/3 of the way from the floor from neutral, so I'm guessing that's about where it will catch in all gears. I still have the stock clutch cable and quadrant; they came with the car when I bought it 8 months ago.

Questions: Is this a synchros problem? Or possibly a stretched clutch cable and/or a quadrant flexing issue? I'm not sure where to start.

 

[revhead347]

Since it's only in that one gear, I gather it's a synchro that has started to wear out. I wouldn't rule out a clutch issue though. Sometimes transmissions are more peticular about clutch disengagement in different gears.

Kurt

 

[Chythar]

Ah, forgot to mention that. The clutch is new as of this summer, it's a King Cobra Clutch. New pressure plate, throwout bearing and steel TB retainer, and resurfaced flywheel too.

I've been experimenting with the issue, to see if I can get it to reliably repeat. No luck there, but I can reliably get it NOT to happen if I make sure to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. In the other gears, the pedal doesn't have to be all the way on the floor to shift. I was wondering if my clutch cable had stretched just enough for 3rd to have a problem, but the rest were still OK.

Thanks for the input, Kurt.

 

[revhead347]

It's possible. You might want to buy a firewall adjuster to see if you can get it to go away. If that doesn't fix the problem, then it's probably that synchronizer. The T-5s come with carbon fiber synchros, and they shed the tips pretty easily. It's pretty cheap to fix if you're not scared of popping your transmission open yourself.

Kurt

 

[spoulson]

While at a stop, you can test clutch disengagement by attempting reverse before 1st. If it wants to grind, you either need to press harder on the clutch pedal or adjust the cable.

If it's a synchro, you will probably notice it's more pronounced while the engine/trans is still cold and it's cold outside.

 

[Chythar]

Well, it never really gets that cold her in Los Angeles as it would in Delaware, but I haven't noticed a difference between cold and warm with this gear. I'll keep an eye on it tho.

 

[Adam95GT]

syncros or fork.

 

[Chythar]

The fork? How so?

 

[94GTCoupe]

syncros or fork.

Posted via Mobile Device
mine would do that when cold.
got it rebuilt.
bad syncros and bent shift fork.

 

[Chythar]

After a bit of experimentation with the clutch pedal, I noticed it just barely starts to catch just off of the floor; lower than I thought. Sounds like it's time for a Maximum Motorsports clutch cable package.

 

[Adam95GT]

go with a fiore and modify a stock cable... im not sure if they still are around but chris has one on his cobra and the micro click adjustment is solid and just all around bad ass..

 

[Adam95GT]

not correct year... but here is a description if your intrested.
Fiore 96-04 Mustang Micro-Click Firewall Adjuster [MC100] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs



I know upr makes a click style adjuster... but ill never buy any parts from them... be cause of quality and someone from UPR running their mouth to people on another forum im on and talking Smack to dave zimmerman from Team Z motorsports
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?p=952663#post952663

http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1101501

 

[tderrick]

not correct year... but here is a description if your intrested.
Fiore 96-04 Mustang Micro-Click Firewall Adjuster [MC100] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustang

I wonder why our years aren't listed for that part at Lethal... Surely the 96-04 would fit....

 

[revhead347]

I use this adjuster, and it works great. $20 cheaper, and it works with any cable.

Steeda Firewall Cable Adjuster - '79-'04 Ford Mustang

Kurt

 

[Chythar]

A bit of an update. I finally got off my @$$ this Thanksgiving weekend and installed the Maximum Motorsports clutch cable kit - new OEM cable, firewall adjuster and quadrant. Man, the old quadrant was a b*tch to get out, but it finally gave up. The old cable was a mess, I had a difficult time sliding the cable by hand. The inner liner was crumbling and probably jamming the cable up good.

The pedal feel is quite lighter now, and much more consistent. I'm still getting the problem from 2nd to 3rd, and I have some noticeable gear whine in 3rd too, so it looks like a tranny rebuild is in my immediate future. I still have a bit more slack in the cable than I want, so I think I'll try to adjust most of it out. I know I need to leave some slack so the throwout bearing isn't always riding on the pressure plate, but I think I left more than I need.

 

[2 Foxes]

These throw out bearings are actually designed to have a slight preload any way.

 

[revhead347]

I don't preload the throwout bearing at all. I actually prefer to keep the throwout bearing out of contact with the pressure plate, which prolongs the life of the bearing.

Kurt