1991 331 stroker trick flow, will not run good
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After installing the new ignition module that cleared up the cracking and poping. The car is now starting to idle and run somewhat normal, it wants to rev to around 3000 rpm and stay there at times by its self, the headers are also getting quite hot. It seems the intake is pulling air from somewhere (trick flow R series) all bolts are tight, new gaskets, etc but if you use a slight bit of starting fluid around the upper/lower connection the engine rpm's will increase, possibly a vacume line or something as well picking it up as well but now I need to figure this out and stop this leak and see how it runs. Fuel pressure looks good at idle 34-36 psi but at 3000 rpm drops to the mid 20's
thanks
After installing the new ignition module that cleared up the cracking and poping. The car is now starting to idle and run somewhat normal, it wants to rev to around 3000 rpm and stay there at times by its self, the headers are also getting quite hot. It seems the intake is pulling air from somewhere (trick flow R series) all bolts are tight, new gaskets, etc but if you use a slight bit of starting fluid around the upper/lower connection the engine rpm's will increase, possibly a vacume line or something as well picking it up as well but now I need to figure this out and stop this leak and see how it runs. Fuel pressure looks good at idle 34-36 psi but at 3000 rpm drops to the mid 20's
thanks
fiveohwblow
Official Member
- Jul 21, 2005
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I think I’m a bit late here...anyway, I built a Keith Craft short block 331. I initially considered an X-303 cam but opted for the Street Heat Stage 2 from Trick Flow. I also used the TFTW heads and Street Heat intake. I had a 70 mm TB, 60 lb. injectors l, 300 log fuel pump.(I planned to supercharge it....kids started coming and hobby cash going!), new fuel pressure regulator, 1:7 rockers, shortly headers, did a auto to 5 speed swap and opted for the computer from another 92 because, as I understood it then, it would pretty much “self tune” the engine after every change made, so long as you completely drained the power from the system by taking the battery cable off...also, remember to have the system drained when you pull the pill when setting timing. Hook it back up w the pill out and set the timing, then reverse the process. My timing was set at around 24 deg from what I remember from almost 12 years ago now. Some don’t go to that extent but it seems to work better.
It took me a bit to get my engine from running rich. I had to mess with the fuel pressure. After a few attempts and resetting the system and about 5 miles of different acceleration driving, it ran like a champ. Dyno showed 386 hp and 416 fr lbs Tq at the tires. No expensive computer work done. Hope the shade tree and FIRST TIME FORD ENGINE BUILDER tips helped. Before my Stang I had an 85 S-10 w a .030 350, Performer RPM intake, 780 Holly, Vac Secnodariies w Proform chilled main body and quick change secondaries spring, as it was a daily driver...a wicked one!, Pwtronics HEI, 041 small valve heads, 292 Comp Cam, 7:1 rockers and on and on...plus A SECONDARY VACUUM CANNISTER TO ACTUATE MY 780 vacuum secondaries carb because, at idle, the cam has near no vacuum.
It took me a bit to get my engine from running rich. I had to mess with the fuel pressure. After a few attempts and resetting the system and about 5 miles of different acceleration driving, it ran like a champ. Dyno showed 386 hp and 416 fr lbs Tq at the tires. No expensive computer work done. Hope the shade tree and FIRST TIME FORD ENGINE BUILDER tips helped. Before my Stang I had an 85 S-10 w a .030 350, Performer RPM intake, 780 Holly, Vac Secnodariies w Proform chilled main body and quick change secondaries spring, as it was a daily driver...a wicked one!, Pwtronics HEI, 041 small valve heads, 292 Comp Cam, 7:1 rockers and on and on...plus A SECONDARY VACUUM CANNISTER TO ACTUATE MY 780 vacuum secondaries carb because, at idle, the cam has near no vacuum.
I ran 60 lb injectors and , as us old paramedics say, titrated the fuel pressure to effect. I just adjusted the regulator and test drive til I was satisfied. I also had the injectors because I planned to supercharge her one day....didn’t happen, sadly.
I feel for him...my 92 was the first and so far, only Ford I’ve ever built. I remember my Chevy firing order from when I was 8! Yes old....have the NEW ONE on a business card in my money clip..LOL
Some computers are better than others. I never had to have a chip burned. I would drain the electrical system of power when a change of any kind was made, Fire it off and drive her..:the preprogrammed maps picked right up did what it was supposed to do.
Late? A bit? You think?
Seriously though, happens all the time.
Hint: there is a post date in the top left corner. This case it was 2009, no matter, get over to the fox general talk forum and tell us more about your stang.
Extra points for pics.
Of the car.
Or your cat.
Or your neighbors cat.
Welcome to stangnet
I went through THREE BBK meters in a short time, and had to clock them when working.
The C&L with new Delphi electronics inserted is a much better solution.
What else do you like better?
The C&L with new Delphi electronics inserted is a much better solution.
What else do you like better?
I typically like 80mm pro m's PMAS (or whatever the hell they call themselves these days.
Not sure what i liked 12 years ago when i made that post, lol.
Foxslider
im not that much of a idiot
If the car is thirty years old, that makes it an update or follow up, not a zombie thread, right?
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