cooling system setup?
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Most people run an upgrade high flow water pump, and a big radiator. Usually that fixes all the cooling issues. Most people on this website use the Stewart high flow water pump. I use a BrassWorks water pump which you can buy from Summit, and it is about the same price as the Stewart. I think it's a little cheaper actually, and it works really well. It's in the $50 range. You are going to want to put a large 2" core aluminum radiator in there. There are a few out there, but most of them are pretty pricy, in the $400 range. Mitsumoto or whatever radiator is in the $200 range, but a lot of people on here complain that they crack. Same for the Fluidyne. I use the Steeda direct fit radiator, which was almost $400, but I've had it for about 7 years, and never had a problem with it. You can also get a generic large aluminum radiator from Jeg's or Summit for under $200, but you will have to make your own brackets to put it in. There are people on this website who have done that before too. If the car still runs a little hot, you can put a Mr. Gasket high flow thermostat in there, which you can get at Advance or Summit for about $10. Also, the stock fan kicks on at about 212 degrees or something like that. A lot of people change the fan to kick on at about 190 degrees, which is changed through the ECM with a chip. If you are running a supercharged 302, you are going to want a custom tune for it anyway, and the person who burns the chip can change the temperature on the fan as part of the tune for no extra cost, you just have to remind that person to do it. All the other factory cooling equipment should work fine.
Kurt
Kurt
Thanks alot revhead!!! Is there any plus to buying the aluminum water pump over the cast iron other than the weight? I'm on summits site know and getting ready to order the stewart pump now. They are the same price. Also should I get the stage 1 or 2. I dont see any differences. Also my fan is all nasty looking so I was just going to buy a new one. Is there any good after market ones worth getting or should I just order the stock one.
The stock fan is really the easiest to use, and it cools fine. It fits a lot better than the aftermarket ones. Not sure on the Stage 1 or 2, as I'm not familiar with the Stewart Water pump, but all the water pumps are aluminum, even the stock one. Just make sure you get one for 94-95, as the older ones do not fit on this car.
Kurt
Kurt
Tanus
New Member
all stock (195 stat), but with a black magic fan, runs the same temp in 60deg weather as it does in 115 deg. weather. about 200-210
I use the orange coolant.
I use the orange coolant.
Here are some thoughts from one who lives in hot Texas summers 
I have my own experience and have paid close attention from those
who also live in places that get hotter in the summer than a lot of
peeps who live up North
In a nutshell ..............
The OEM system is barely able to do the job as a little stocker Stang
Now ... do some mods that make more than bolt-on power
and
You then have exceeded things
Also ... what if your OEM system is lacking
you know
Maybe the rad is a bit clogged or something like that
Another thing is the pcm is setup to run hotter than most would like :Word:
Having said all that
You can see how lowering the temp values in the pcm
A rad that has more efficiency
A wp that will move more water
It has worked for me and as others have said ... it works for them
btw ...
I run lower pcm values with a Tweecer
I also run a Fluidyne rad with Stewart high volume wp
It has worked with very good results for my little 95 GT
More hp will produce more heat
I can say my current sig combo even with reduced pcm temp values
pushed the OEM rad to the point it would not keep up in any way,
shape or form
Before the current combo I was running self ported E7's and other small
stuff at around the 250 to 260 rwhp level with lowered pcm temp values
yet still running the OEM rad and wp
As long as I kept moving all was well but let me sit at a long
stoplight and the temp would start to climb
If I got stuck in traffic ...........
I had to down the windows and turn on the heat with max blower speed
Anywho ... some of the things I've seen
Grady
I have my own experience and have paid close attention from those
who also live in places that get hotter in the summer than a lot of
peeps who live up North
In a nutshell ..............
The OEM system is barely able to do the job as a little stocker Stang
Now ... do some mods that make more than bolt-on power
and
You then have exceeded things
Also ... what if your OEM system is lacking
you know
Maybe the rad is a bit clogged or something like that
Another thing is the pcm is setup to run hotter than most would like :Word:
Having said all that
You can see how lowering the temp values in the pcm
A rad that has more efficiency
A wp that will move more water
It has worked for me and as others have said ... it works for them
btw ...
I run lower pcm values with a Tweecer
I also run a Fluidyne rad with Stewart high volume wp
It has worked with very good results for my little 95 GT
More hp will produce more heat
I can say my current sig combo even with reduced pcm temp values
pushed the OEM rad to the point it would not keep up in any way,
shape or form
Before the current combo I was running self ported E7's and other small
stuff at around the 250 to 260 rwhp level with lowered pcm temp values
yet still running the OEM rad and wp
As long as I kept moving all was well but let me sit at a long
stoplight and the temp would start to climb
If I got stuck in traffic ...........
I had to down the windows and turn on the heat with max blower speed
Anywho ... some of the things I've seen
Grady
Just to throw in my two cents. Been working with a buddy for about a year now with his stang since he can afford to do his, and here's just a few things that are on his that should do you just fine, although he has his turbo'd and not supercharged.
A Fluidyne radiator which has worked great with no problems so far for about 14 months now. He has the Stewart water pump in there along with a Mr. Gasket 180 degree t-stat. All hoses were upgraded to the aluminum ones but I think he got those custom made. He is still running the stock fan but as revhead said, his is tuned. Not much input I can give you, but that's my 2 cents into it. Goodluck.
A Fluidyne radiator which has worked great with no problems so far for about 14 months now. He has the Stewart water pump in there along with a Mr. Gasket 180 degree t-stat. All hoses were upgraded to the aluminum ones but I think he got those custom made. He is still running the stock fan but as revhead said, his is tuned. Not much input I can give you, but that's my 2 cents into it. Goodluck.
well thank you guys. I ordered the stewart water pump and its on its way. I ordered the stage 2 for ****s and giggles. I ordered a new fan from latemodel restoration and also order the new black trim piece that goes over the head lights and radiator, and all under hood stock decals. I stopped and auto zone and picked up the t-stat. I'm just not sure about the radiator.......
There is no Stage 2 water pump from Stewart for 94-95 5.0, just a Stage 1, part number 16183. The only Stage 2 is for 1970-78 and SVO Small Block. Now, there's a hand polished Stage 1 for our cars (16183HP) - is that the one you ordered?
I would suggest you call them ASAP and verify they gave you part number 16183, or you'll be shipping it back to them. Up to you.
when i purchased my stewart pump 2 weeks ago...summit had 2 listed online for 94/95. they had a stage 1 or stage 2. stage 1 was $75, EMP-16183 and stage 2 is listed for $230, EMP-16183-HP.
just make sure your not running underdrive pulleys with your stewart pump otherwise you'll run into issues with your pulleys
just make sure your not running underdrive pulleys with your stewart pump otherwise you'll run into issues with your pulleys
How interesting. As I mentioned, Stewart says the 16183 is not a stage 2 pump; it's a hand-polished Stage 1. If you feel the shiny pump is worth the extra $155, that's cool. But you won't get any extra performance out of it.
I don't know what might be different about my setup
I run a Stewart pump and Mac steel ud pulleys and have no issues
Grady
yeah thats weird. i run asp pullies and my water pump pulley hits the harmonic balancer with the stewart pump. i was going to use a spacer but i emailed stewart and they told me they do not recommend running an underdrive pulley on the water pump. so i'm going back to the stock pulley
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