aluminum Flywheel/ Driveshaft dyno results Video & dyno sheet inside!

tank_567

Active Member
Mar 19, 2007
731
26
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Raleigh, Nc
Well, I have to say this, do not waste your money on Aluminum Flywheel or Driveshaft, I picked up 2rwhp and lost some tq:mad:. I dumped about 300 on the flywheel and 200 on the driveshaft. I cant really say it rev up faster, it really feels about the same. The dyno sheet below has my car dyno'd with the stock plenum/tb, with the all of the other mods listed in my sig. The next dyno was with my bbk plenum/75mm tb, the Aluminum Flywheel & Driveshaft.

Video link:
Bob's Mustang dyno - Car Videos on StreetFire

Dyno Sheet:
Bobs Dyno.jpg
 
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I went a tenth faster in the quarter mile after putting in a 12lb flywheel and 6 puck high coefficient clutch. I wouldn't imagine it would make much, if any difference on the actual horsepower numbers. It's more of a driving experience change, and I felt it for sure at the track. Putting an offroad X pipe, lightweight flywheel, and a nice intake/plenum/tb combo will make any 2 valve rev like a 4 valve, possibly even quicker. My engine revs fast as hell.

An aluminum driveshaft, while also reducing rotating mass, also serves as a well balanced replacement for the stocker. I wouldn't trust the stock driveshaft much past 100 for extended periods of time. I'll be getting one for mine sometime soon, as I need to do u joints anyway.
 
a lightweight flywheel isn't a power mod. It's a waste of time if you are looking for it to make power.

And as has been stated, AL driveshaft isn't a power mod either.

Who ever said these parts made power?
 
Its a bummer you changed your throttle body and intake at the same time. It is hard to difiniatively prove one mod isn't a gain or a loss, when you pair it with another. One can be canceling the other (I.E. your throttle body may actually be stealing rear wheel hp that your driveshaft gained) I am not suggesting that this is the case, but just like in a court of law.... there is a reasonable doubt now for your claim in my mind.
 
In a fixed RPM test the flywheel and drive shaft should neither add nor remove any HP. In a acceleration test the lighter parts will take less energy / HP to accelerate and this should show. The faster the rate of accelerate the more it will show up.
 
And also, keep in mind you are doing nothing but hurting the motor by revving to 64-6500 RPM.

Stock cams/intake run out of breath around the mid 5k range, no reason to shift over 6k at all without cams or headwork, especially on stock valve springs which will start to float around 63-6400 RPM and yours have 100+k on them.
 
ya, i havent done a driveshaft or flywheel upgrade but i do know the stock driveshaft is fairly light already, i can curl mine with one arm so the aluminum one would have to weigh almost nothin.