H/C/I suggestions for 94 cobra

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Any of the aftermarket kits should get you to the 300 RWHP range, so just pick your flavor. Don't be afraid to pick and choose parts from different manufacturers, in order to reach your goal. If you're not opposed to going with a custom cam, talk to Ed Curtis at Flowtech Induction, or Jay Allen at Camshaft Innovations, but be forwarned that the cam cost alone is typically twice what you'd expect to pay for a regular off the shelf grind, and they may require additional supporting pieces, such as different lifters and valve springs. That's definitely something they will notify you about up front, however. Also, don't forget to figure fuel system mods into the picture, and possibly a tune (or tuning device of your choice). Good luck!
 
I've heard great reviews for the Trickflow setup they offer, as it comes with everything minus fuel system and a tune. I've personally seen a gutted out 1995 Mustang GTS run 11.7's consistently with the Trickflow top end + stage 2 camshaft, fuel, suspension, and slicks.
 
With the exception of the Trick Flow heads, almost all of the entry level aftermarket aluminum heads are basically the same. Almost all the others are machined from Canfield castings. The difference is in the packaging. Certain heads come with a better valve job, a slightly bigger port, and different size and quality valves. But the important stuff that you can't modify later on is all the same, valve angle, port height, etc. Don't fixate on the power claims, or personal experience on a particular head, but focus on which head is giving you the best package for the price. The Trick Flow twisted wedge is honestly the best entry level head. Trick Flow has a unique design with the valves at different angles to allow for better flow, and larger valves and higher lift cams without requiring piston notching.

Kurt
 
I have no complaints about my TFS top end. I have it on two different cars and still no problems. Had it for 3-1\2 years and mainly ran with a power adder although on my Cobra I ran just the top end kit untuned and will say my car could have run better with a custom tune.
 
My brother's 94 cobra we did the following:

Had the factory GT40 heads ported /manifold port matched @ $600
Added manley stainless backcut valves @$150
Comp .550 lift valvesprings @100-120
Ford racing f-cam .512/.512 and i forget the split, I think its 223/223 @ 110 @ $160
scorpion roller rockers ($ not sure, he paid $150 for the springs/rockers off a friend new) @ $250 id guess

car was supported with the factory 24# injectors, a 190lph pump/adj reg, LT's/x/spintechs, and a C&L intake,75mm tb.

Made 301/312 rwhp on a dynojet through a 5spd and 3:73s
Made 397/510 rwhp on a zex 125shot the same day

Something to think about and might save you a little coin
 
Im another fan of the Trick Flow products. Im running one of their intakes now and want to switch over to a set of their heads as well. Its fine to miss match parts from other companies but the kits are often designed to work together. IMO I would go the route of a Trick Flow intake and heads and get a custom cam. I have one from Ed Curtis and I like it quite a bit. Mine does not start to drop in power until 5,500 RPM
 
My brother's 94 cobra we did the following:

Had the factory GT40 heads ported /manifold port matched @ $600
......
Made 301/312 rwhp on a dynojet through a 5spd and 3:73s
Made 397/510 rwhp on a zex 125shot the same day

Something to think about and might save you a little coin

Those dyno numbers must be off. How do you make 200more rwtq on a 125 shot ??
 
Those dyno numbers must be off. How do you make 200more rwtq on a 125 shot ??

Not uncommon to pick up that much torque on nitrous. Nitrous does some sort of magic for your torque. My car goes from 372/390 to 491/635 on a 150 shot. It never drops below 600ft.lb of torque at the wheels at any rpm when the nitrous is on. It jumps over 600ft.lb of torque as soon as the nitrous comes on at 3000rpm, and stays there. That's why nitrous cars are so inconsistent from car to car at the track. If you can set up your suspension to hook all that torque off the line, you're going to do well on nitrous. If not, you'll do mediocre. Blower and turbo cars don't have the same problem.

Kurt
 
I have the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads and intake on mine, had regular Performers before that. Both are very nice parts, but IF I had the money, I would have got the AFR's. I got the Eddys cheap(600 bucks, new in the box). It is easy to find Eddys cheap(especially used), not so easy for the AFR's. For cams, it depends on your shortblock, I ran an F-cam for years and it was great, upgraded to Comp cams XE274 with the RPM stuff, but you gotta have piston clearance for those. The XE274 make awesome power and idles supprisingly well!
 
I've know a few people that put the trick flow kits on ther fox and loved it. Out of all the box stock heads I've seen though AFR:hail2: is amazing. Get some 165's, a cam, port the cobra and I would think with a good tune you should put down 300rwhp no problem(with suporting mods) with a nice fat torque curve. You might even get close with a stock cam, not sure.
 
The comp XE line of cams are very good. They make great power and also idle well.

With stock heads, the XE274 and above require piston notching for valve clearance, the next one down (and the others below it) do not. I am not sure about clearance with the Trick Flow heads.
 
Might like to add what type of dyno it was too fellas.

Make's a bit of a difference. My AFRs/TFS stg1/Edel perf 5.0 did 297 rwhp 315rwtq with the wrong length pushrod causing irratic valvetrain and a shakey graph up top on a stingy mustang dyno. It wouldve shown considerably higher ie @ 320rwhp on a dynojet despite the pushrod dillemma.

It also trapped consistantly 3mph+ faster than the cobra of my brothers listing the 301/312 (different type of dyno; wich actually might have been 320 rwtq IIRC.

Just food for thought. LS1 swap ;) :p