Motor mount - Short or tall

u0061914

New Member
Aug 20, 2009
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Prior Lake, MN
Quick question....

I'm in the process of converting my 67 6cyl car to a v8. I ordered a set of engine frame mount brackets, but also need to order a set of motor mounts. I see there is a "short style" and a "tall style". Can someone fill me in on what each is for? I'm putting in a 302 if that helps.

Thanks
 
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If I recall correctly 67 mounts are different than all other years, If you had to order the frame mounts you should get them for the 68 and up, and use the 68 and up mounts. Or for what you will be spending go with an adjustable mount like Ron Morris. On my 67 I had a tall and a short. Made the engine sit a bit cocked but it worked that way for 15 years. All the "stock" style aftermarket would not line up correctly with the 67 steel frame mounts.
 
Glazier Nolan can provide stock type mount that will fit the 67, but since he's doing a conversion, it's easier than that.

Just use this diagram to select or modify the frame brackets so that the ones you can get easily will fit.

MotorMount-1.jpg
 
I struggled with the motor mount issue when it came time to replace the stock mounts. A nightmare - tall were too tall, short were too short. Nothing fit (mine is a 68 vert). Finally got Ron Morris mounts ($200+). Perfect solution.
 
I struggled with the motor mount issue when it came time to replace the stock mounts. A nightmare - tall were too tall, short were too short. Nothing fit (mine is a 68 vert). Finally got Ron Morris mounts ($200+). Perfect solution.
Aren't the Ron Morris mounts the ones that are adjustable front/back, and up/down? OP--seems that I remember seeing a thread on this a long while back and EVERY feedback was positive on those mounts. I think everyone felt that they were worth the cost. I may have saved that link, I'll check and see. If I find it, I'll post it.
 
In 67, the angle the frame brackets were mounted was revised, to deal with a vibration issue. The frame bracket stayed the same, but one of the bolt holes was moved, as shown above. The insulator (mount) was altered to compensate for the change in angle. In 68, the mount returned to the previous (66) configuration, except for convertibles. The 70 BOSS 302 also used the 67 configuration.

Much misinformation has gathered around this, including the urban legend that the convertible had the engine mounted lower than the coupe. Not so. The change in angle and design kept the height the same, only the installed angle of the rubber cushion changed. The misconception probably started from people using the wrong insulator, which of course would change the height, after they forced the wrong part onto the car with a prybar.
 
I don't know the exact differences, as I never compared. 15 years ago when I did the stock mounts I had to put a short on the drivers side . I couldn't get the bolts to line up with 2 short or 2 tall. It made the engine sit cocked to the side but nothing significant. It was driven like this while I was in high school. Never had a problem with it. I noticed that the original passenger side was broke when I started my T5 swap. I had some ford take offs from a 70 that are in great shape and tried them, but it was impossible to get it lined up to mount on. I went with the Ron Morris because I didn't want the twist in the drive line to cause me issues with the swap. They are not cheap but WORTH EVERY PENNY. If you would ever plan on doing an AOD or Manual overdrive swap they are the $hiznit.
 
I don't know the exact differences, as I never compared. 15 years ago when I did the stock mounts I had to put a short on the drivers side . I couldn't get the bolts to line up with 2 short or 2 tall. It made the engine sit cocked to the side but nothing significant. It was driven like this while I was in high school. Never had a problem with it. I noticed that the original passenger side was broke when I started my T5 swap. I had some ford take offs from a 70 that are in great shape and tried them, but it was impossible to get it lined up to mount on.

This was because you were using the wrong mounts. The common mount is industry #2257. The 67 calls for #2286. Many sellers offer the #2286, but when it is examined, invariably it turns out the part is actually a #2257, in a box marked #2286. Unless the 70 was a convertible, those were the wrong mounts, too.
 
OK, bear with me here. One last question on this. If... I was to go with the Ron Morris adjustable mounts, do I still need to order the "engine frame mount brackets"? Such as Mustangs Unlimited - The Premier Source for Mustang, Shelby and Cougar Parts and Accessories

or do they bolt right onto the frame mount ?

NO you do not need to order the frame mount brackets. The Ron Morris mounts bolt in place of the factory style. Personally if I needed to by the stock frame mounts and engine mounts, I would go with the Ron Morris. At that point you really are not spending that much more money.
 
To go with 68-70 repro brackets and mounts will run you about $150, the adjustables are about $225.

Pick what you want:
Stock mounts, +on cost, -on adjustability, +on smoothness, -on strength
Adjustables, -on cost, +on adjustability, -on smoothness, +on strength

Check this link.
Mustang Motor Mount Recognition

There is no "short" or "tall", except from parts sellers who don't know what the heck they are talking about. There is only "correct application" and "incorrect application".
 
Aren't the Ron Morris mounts the ones that are adjustable front/back, and up/down? OP--seems that I remember seeing a thread on this a long while back and EVERY feedback was positive on those mounts. I think everyone felt that they were worth the cost. I may have saved that link, I'll check and see. If I find it, I'll post it.
u0061914--FYI, I believe that I mistyped in my first post. I'm pretty sure that the RM mounts are adjustable front-to-back and side-to-side, but not up-and-down. Sorry if that caused any confusion, but I wanted to let you know in case that affects your decision. :nice:
 
u0061914--FYI, I believe that I mistyped in my first post. I'm pretty sure that the RM mounts are adjustable front-to-back and side-to-side, but not up-and-down. Sorry if that caused any confusion, but I wanted to let you know in case that affects your decision. :nice:

They are not adjustable up and down, but you can get a lowering mount bracket for them. Meaning the frame mount sits lower, nice if you need the hood clearance.
 
Glazier Nolan can provide stock type mount that will fit the 67, but since he's doing a conversion, it's easier than that.

Just use this diagram to select or modify the frame brackets so that the ones you can get easily will fit.

MotorMount-1.jpg

The hole that is drilled is in the upper part of the bracket looking at it from the front of the car? Based on the template it seems to be that way, just want to make sure though.
 
No, that's the lower part of the bracket. Any lower, and you're looking at the part thzt's welded to the car. If you look at these repros, you'll see the bolt is in the "68 289 except convertible" location.

This is a picture of my drivers side frame bracket and what is left of the motor mount as taken from the front of the car. Am I drilling next to the top hole or bottom hole?
jtox3d.jpg
 
Am I drilling next to the top hole or bottom hole?

You have the "67 all" type. You have 2 choices- you can redrill the hole lower, to use the common insulator, or get the 67 insulator from Glazier Nolan. On the other hand, what you have is perfect for a 390/428. If the black diagram is printed out actual size, it's a template. It was traced off original Ford brackets.
 
I'll chime in on this and say that I have the RMP adjustable motor mounts (stock height). I would recommend them. I'm glad I got them. The lowering mounts are for 351 swaps, if I'm not mistaken.