How to Pull Engine(01 Bullitt)

[PBullitt3255]

Hey Guys, I'm new to the forums and I beleive this is where I'm supposed to post this.
I have a 01 Bullitt GT with only 65,000 Miles on the engine and have engine knock. I had a mechanic look at it and he said it was rod knock. I am planning on pulling the engine out and bringing it to a machine shop to look at it/fix the problem and install forged internals. I've found a instruction manual on ARRC on how-to pull the engine for this car but am wondering if anyone had any tips on doing this. I'm not a mechanic but I think I would be able to do this job with help of a friend also not a mech. The manual is not the best, only explains the basics. Anyone know where I could get a better manual to do this job? Tips/or anything I should know before doing this?
Thanks in advanced.
Corey

 

[wmburns]

Manual or automatic? Is this your first time?

Where do you plan on doing the work (Driveway or shop)? Will you have to move the car while the engine work is being done?

Will you have access to a lift or will an engine crane be used?

Assuming that you and your friend will do the work yourself. Do you have an engine stand or engine dolly? Load leveler? Axle stands (24" or taller)?

Do you have a Chilton's manual? Recommend have for reference.

Tools? In addition to normal hand tools, recommend a 13mm Flex socket and a 24" extension.

 

[PBullitt3255]

Manual or automatic? Is this your first time?

Where do you plan on doing the work (Driveway or shop)? Will you have to move the car while the engine work is being done?

Will you have access to a lift or will an engine crane be used?

Assuming that you and your friend will do the work yourself. Do you have an engine stand or engine dolly? Load leveler? Axle stands (24" or taller)?

Do you have a Chilton's manual? Recommend have for reference.

Tools? In addition to normal hand tools, recommend a 13mm Flex socket and a 24" extension.

Hey burns,
It is a manual t3650 transmission i will also be swapping in a replacement
I plan on doing the work in my driveway, I might have to move the car out of my driveway but only about 20 feet in my yard.
I planned on buying/renting an engine crane to pull the engine out.
We do not have an engine stand or dolly, was thinking just the engine hoist would do with the load leveler?
We do have axle stands at least 24", and also have ramps if needed.
I do not have a Chilton's manual, I beleive I can rent one from advanced auto parts thought.
My uncle just gave me his toolbox with a vast amount of tools in it said to be $1,000 worth. He does'nt need them anymore.
I definately have the 24" but not sure of the 13mm flex socket. I will check on that today when I get home.
Thanks

 

[Mel96GT]

If you plan to keep the car, do what I did and buy a couple different car manuals from Amazon. You can buy them used and they are cheap. Some manuals are better at explaining certain things than others. Also, engine hoists are cheap and since you will be renting it twice (removal and install) you may just want to buy one.

 

[wmburns]

A Chilton's manual is only $20. Buy one for yourself just to have around in case of need.

If your plan is to pull the engine/transmission as an assembly, a load leveler is a must. It also helps to get the car up higher on jack stands (easier to get under the car). This is where the crane matters. The low budget cranes may not have enough lifting capacity with the boom fully extended. This may be as low as 500 lbs. This is not enough to safely lift the motor AND transmission.

Recommend a crane with 1000 lbs capacity with the boom fully extended.

Next problem is supporting the engine/transmission. Unless you have the special lifting brackets that Ford sells ($500+), attaching a load leveler is somewhat problematic.

An option is to remove the intake manifold on the car. Use the front/rear engine valley webbing to attach the load leveler. This will safely support the weight and allow the load to be tilted enough to remove as an assembly.

Other options are more difficult to safely attach load leveler (rear) to the motor. If a sling is used, you must ensure that it will not slip off as the assembly is tilted.

I have heard of other ppl using the intake manifold bolts. However, they seam too small to me. In addition of taking the risk of damage to the manifold and/or the sealing surfaces.

Remember to drain the transmission and plug the transmission yoke when the drive shaft is removed.

An engine crane will not safely support the weight of an engine for long periods of time. You may find it easier to buy a budget engine stand from Harbor Freight. This will aid in the tear down (most machine shops want the engine in "long block" status).

Do not get the low priced one with 3 wheels (it is not stable and cheap). The next model up with 4 wheels is serviceable.

 

[PBullitt3255]

If you plan to keep the car, do what I did and buy a couple different car manuals from Amazon. You can buy them used and they are cheap. Some manuals are better at explaining certain things than others. Also, engine hoists are cheap and since you will be renting it twice (removal and install) you may just want to buy one.

Thanks, yea I'll most likely just buy one from somewhere

A Chilton's manual is only $20. Buy one for yourself just to have around in case of need.

If your plan is to pull the engine/transmission as an assembly, a load leveler is a must. It also helps to get the car up higher on jack stands (easier to get under the car). This is where the crane matters. The low budget cranes may not have enough lifting capacity with the boom fully extended. This may be as low as 500 lbs. This is not enough to safely lift the motor AND transmission.

Recommend a crane with 1000 lbs capacity with the boom fully extended.

Next problem is supporting the engine/transmission. Unless you have the special lifting brackets that Ford sells ($500+), attaching a load leveler is somewhat problematic.

An option is to remove the intake manifold on the car. Use the front/rear engine valley webbing to attach the load leveler. This will safely support the weight and allow the load to be tilted enough to remove as an assembly.

Other options are more difficult to safely attach load leveler (rear) to the motor. If a sling is used, you must ensure that it will not slip off as the assembly is tilted.

I have heard of other ppl using the intake manifold bolts. However, they seam too small to me. In addition of taking the risk of damage to the manifold and/or the sealing surfaces.

Remember to drain the transmission and plug the transmission yoke when the drive shaft is removed.

An engine crane will not safely support the weight of an engine for long periods of time. You may find it easier to buy a budget engine stand from Harbor Freight. This will aid in the tear down (most machine shops want the engine in "long block" status).

Do not get the low priced one with 3 wheels (it is not stable and cheap). The next model up with 4 wheels is serviceable.

Is this manual good for my car? Or do I need a different one since it is a Bullitt?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Chiltons-Ford-M...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4f75125c4d

I will just buy the engine hoist. Oh and I was thinking of dropped the tranny out of the bottom instead of with the hoist. Seems like it would be a little easier to do that way. Thanks for the tips on the engine hoist, will look into a good one.
Oh and what is "long block" status? My friend recommended me S&H Auto Machine down here is palm beach florida. He said I can keep the heads on so I was thinking on pulling the engine and putting it right into the truck to bring it there.

 

[wmburns]

The manual is good for all Mustangs. There are not enough differences to make a difference.

You should ask the machine shop. However, I had an experience where the machine shop charged an an extra $100 tear down fee. I took the motor just exactly as it came out of the car. They expected the motor to be brought in with the intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, front crank pulley, flywheel, water pump, wiring, and all front acc removed. Some even want the sensors removed.

In a nut shell, long block status ready for final tear down.

Removing the trans has it's +/-'s. The motor is easier to lift as almost no tilting is needed. A simple sling around the rear of the motor under the oil pan works nicely. And the intake manifold will not have to be removed.

However, there is more work associated with unbolting the transmission while still on the car.

IMO, a 13mm FLEX socket is a MUST. The long 24" extensions will help with starter removal as well as access to the 2 top transmission bolts.

 

[PBullitt3255]

The manual is good for all Mustangs. There are not enough differences to make a difference.

You should ask the machine shop. However, I had an experience where the machine shop charged an an extra $100 tear down fee. I took the motor just exactly as it came out of the car. They expected the motor to be brought in with the intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, front crank pulley, flywheel, water pump, wiring, and all front acc removed. Some even want the sensors removed.

In a nut shell, long block status ready for final tear down.

Removing the trans has it's +/-'s. The motor is easier to lift as almost no tilting is needed. A simple sling around the rear of the motor under the oil pan works nicely. And the intake manifold will not have to be removed.

However, there is more work associated with unbolting the transmission while still on the car.

IMO, a 13mm FLEX socket is a MUST. The long 24" extensions will help with starter removal as well as access to the 2 top transmission bolts.

Ohh Okay, I can handle that I just didn't want to take out the spark plugs.(paranoid) had one blow out on me after I changed.
thanks for your advice I will buy the manual today, and will make sure I have the 13mm flex socket, by the way what part is it used for?
You seem like you know your stuff, thanks for your help!
I'll keep you updated on how its going