Putting 89 5.0 Into A 66

[danny clemens]

I'm getting an 89 5.0 and I want to take the fuel injection off and put it in a 66. What problems will I have to address? I know I'll have to change the intake, put a carb on it, change the distributor and change the oil pan. Will 289 headers bolt up to this engine ok? Can I put a 69 351 timing chain cover on it? Will a fuel pump eccentric bolt right onto the existing system? Will anything on the heads have to be plugged up? Will I have any problems hooking up a 69 C-4 and torque converter to this engine?

Are there any other things that I'll need to do that I've left out? All information will be appreciated. I haven't ever saw the insides of one of these engines so I'd like to know what I'm getting into before I do it.

 

[danny clemens]

Maybe some of you can help me with this. I've been reading and I read that an 89 5.0 out of a Crown Vic probably wouldn't be a roller engine but could be. Is there any way to tell besides tearing it down?

 

[calpolymustang]

fuel pump depends on if you use serp or v-belts.
if you uses all original accesories and v-belts, you can use the 289 timing chain cover.

i went with serpentine belts and drilled a hole in the 5.0 timing cover for the dip stick. i used an electric pump.

for the distributor...you will have to get a steel gear and replace the iron gear. this will require machining, and may be easier to have the local machine shop do.

headers will bolts up, but you will have to plug up the rear smog ports on the heads.

if you use a c4, you will likely need a 50oz flywheel with bolt holes that accept the c4 torque converter. i say get a 50oz flywheel that will accept both the c4 AND AOD, since you may want to get overdrive later on.

dont forget to use a front sump pan.

 

[shoguun]

you can buy a brand new distributor with a steel gear. Its what i did. I dont think you can use the one the motor came with because it is plugs into the cars computer . im not sure if you can rewire it to get it to work but i doubt it. Changing gears is a b****. I tried to take the one off my old distributor so i could do an oil pressure but it would not budge. Ended up cutting it off.

 

[D.Hearne]

Maybe some of you can help me with this. I've been reading and I read that an 89 5.0 out of a Crown Vic probably wouldn't be a roller engine but could be. Is there any way to tell besides tearing it down?

89 Vic 5.0 is a roller cammed motor. It's got the smallest of the factory rollers though. 150 hp. Crappy heads, good for bottom end torque though, these heads were used on the 86 HO 5.0 Mustang. A swap in cams to an HO grind or a B303 will boost it 50 hp. Head swap will require new pistons with valve reliefs, the Vic's pistons lack this. Removal of the thermactor crossover tube will require plugging the holes in the rear of the heads. Everything from the 289 will bolt up to the block. Ditto for the fuel pump eccentric. You may have problems with the 289 accessories bolting onto the heads though.

 

[danny clemens]

It's looking like this may not be the engine to go with since a lot of parts will have to be changed to get any hp. out of it. I think I'll just keep this engine just in case later on I want to completely rebuild one.

Thanks guys

 

[ARPM]

DID THAT A FEW MONTHS AGO THIS IS WHAT'S NEEDED

I also got me a 1989 Grand Marquis 5.0 engine and got it installed in a 66 coupe. This is what I did.

1) Re-used the oil pan and pick up tube from the 66 289 and use a single piece oil pan gasket( Front vs. Rear oil sump)

2) Get a harmonic balancer from summit 50 oz balance that will take 3 or 4 bolt pulleys with V-Belts

3) Get a steel distributor gear for the 289 distributor (steel cuz the roller cam needs it)

4) Swap the timing chain cover from the 66 and while at it change the roller chain and gears (Oil dip stick It’s at the front in timing chain cover vs. Side oil pan on the 5.0) Timing marks will be on the driver side vs. passenger side in the 5.0

5) Buy a 157 tooth 50 oz balance flex plate

6) Get Felpro gasket for the intake (Victor and a few others are a little to big in the front water jacket)

7) Buy 2 pcs of 9/16"-12 1 inch long Screws to plug the crossover tube at the rear of the heads.

The starter will bolt no problems, the engine mounts also are OK, and all my A/C, Pwr Steering and Alternator brackets fit right in. The Oil slinger in the Cam gear had to be massage to fit the double roller chain but that was a snap. Exhaust manifolds go right in and also headers, you will need the fuel pump and the pump cam if not using electric pump. If using electric pump get a cover plate for the timing chain cover. The water pump must be a standard rotation cast iron type. Also re-use the oil pan torque distribution bars on the 289 oil pan.

The 1989 5.0 i'ts a strong foundation for any build. First of all is a roller assy then is one of the strongest blocks from the 80's and is the same block as HO and others. Beside from the heads everything else it's fine. Just trow a set of ported E7TE heads, a b303 cam and 1.7 rockers from an SVO along with headers and you will be up in the numbers with a low cost build.

Here is a list of parts from summit:

SUM-163302 50 oz balancer

(2 pcs) 9/16-12 bolts to plug crossover tube at rear of heads

MAA-29418PD dist gear steel

TCI Auto 529610 - TCI Flex plates 50 oz 157 tooth

RNB-635-107 timing chain cover (optional)

fel-pro FPP-1250 intake gasket

I hope this helps.

 

[bartman]

Also plug hole in block where dip stick used to be.

 

[ARPM]

I also got me a 1989 Grand Marquis 5.0 engine and got it installed in a 66 coupe. This is what I did.

1) Re-used the oil pan and pick up tube from the 66 289 and use a single piece oil pan gasket( Front vs. Rear oil sump)

2) Get a harmonic balancer from summit 50 oz balance that will take 3 or 4 bolt pulleys with V-Belts

3) Get a steel distributor gear for the 289 distributor (steel cuz the roller cam needs it)

4) Swap the timing chain cover from the 66 and while at it change the roller chain and gears (Oil dip stick It’s at the front in timing chain cover vs. Side oil pan on the 5.0) Timing marks will be on the driver side vs. passenger side in the 5.0

5) Buy a 157 tooth 50 oz balance flex plate

6) Get Felpro gasket for the intake (Victor and a few others are a little to big in the front water jacket)

7) Buy 2 pcs of 9/16"-12 1 inch long Screws to plug the crossover tube at the rear of the heads.

The starter will bolt no problems, the engine mounts also are OK, and all my A/C, Pwr Steering and Alternator brackets fit right in. The Oil slinger in the Cam gear had to be massage to fit the double roller chain but that was a snap. Exhaust manifolds go right in and also headers, you will need the fuel pump and the pump cam if not using electric pump. If using electric pump get a cover plate for the timing chain cover. The water pump must be a standard rotation cast iron type. Also re-use the oil pan torque distribution bars on the 289 oil pan.

The 1989 5.0 i'ts a strong foundation for any build. First of all is a roller assy then is one of the strongest blocks from the 80's and is the same block as HO and others. Beside from the heads everything else it's fine. Just trow a set of ported E7TE heads, a b303 cam and 1.7 rockers from an SVO along with headers and you will be up in the numbers with a low cost build.

Here is a list of parts from summit:

SUM-163302 50 oz balancer

(2 pcs) 9/16-12 bolts to plug crossover tube at rear of heads

MAA-29418PD dist gear steel

TCI Auto 529610 - TCI Flex plates 50 oz 157 tooth

RNB-635-107 timing chain cover (optional)

fel-pro FPP-1250 intake gasket

I hope this helps.

Forgot to mention: I was using headman's long headers at the beginning but had clearance problems so I switch to a set of JB Shorties (Old version Chromed) and had to change the head bolts to ARP 1/2" because the flange of the header was hitting the rear pass side head bolt. Same problem showed up with the E7TE’s. Grinding the flange was the other solution but I hate grinding chrome. I think the new JB Mid's have a more space. Using JB's shorties and Crown Vic's heads or E7TE's also have better spark plug clearance cuz of the 5/8" size. That didn't happen on the 289 heads due to the 13/16" spark plug.

 

[D.Hearne]

I had to clearance the Shelby type Tri-Y's I have in my V8 Ranger to work with E7 heads. These are nickle chromed, and I used a grinder to completely shave the bottom head-side of the flanges at an angle to clear the contour of the heads. I think this is due to the revised coolant passages in these heads vs the older heads.