speed density question
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SD uses manifold vacuum to determine air intake volume based on preset parameters.
You can change the cam, but need to select one which will not affect engine vac much
You can change the cam, but need to select one which will not affect engine vac much
The more variables outside of a stock system you add makes it more difficult for a speed density system to adjust. Mass Air calculates air flow into the engine as it happens with the Mass Air Flow sensor mounted before your throttle body. Much more accurate but at a cost as it adds an obstruction into the air flow. Speed density uses a preprogrammed map in the computer to determine how much fuel to use based on things like, barometric pressure, engine temp, speed, rpm, ...etc and does not activley measure incoming air flow. This works fine for a stock engine based on the tables it has to calculate the air flow. However the more variables outside of stock you add, it can't acurately calculate the air flow into the engine. Depending on how radical the cam changes are you may be able to get away with it.
You can change the heads and it should run fine. Any idea what heads they are? You can do all the usually bolt ons except for a cam without issue. My car is still Speed Density and i have all the bolt-ons and i run perfectly fine.
Unsure of what your plans are, but if you want to put a cam in, you really should go mass air. Personally, i think converting to carb is a step backwards, but that's my opinion.
If the car is running rich, pull the codes. SD cars don't have a check engine light. You could have sone sensor, EGR, O2 or other issues causing that problem and other probs.
Unsure of what your plans are, but if you want to put a cam in, you really should go mass air. Personally, i think converting to carb is a step backwards, but that's my opinion.
If the car is running rich, pull the codes. SD cars don't have a check engine light. You could have sone sensor, EGR, O2 or other issues causing that problem and other probs.
They heads are gold?? Not sure if i know of any manf. painting their heads gold. Maybe post pics
As for reading codes
From Jrichker
As for reading codes
From Jrichker
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
You do not use the jumper wire with the code reader or other scanner.
You do not need the extension cable with the code reader. The extension cable is good to use if you want to sit in the driver's seat and dump the engine running codes. Codes cannot be dumped while you are driving the car.
You can post you codes here and I will try to see that you get the 5.0 Mustang specific interpretations.
If you want the generic interpretations, see Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical
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