Engine Swap or Rebuild 289?

66stangmeister

New Member
Apr 14, 2004
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Lafayette, LA
Hi guys, I've been gone around these parts for too long seems like! This type of question has probably bee asked a lot, but I guess my situation is a little unique - I don't know.

Here we go: I have '66 with what I thought was a rebuilt 302 motor when I bought it. Over a year ago I decided to take the motor out and poke around. Turns out the block is a 289. Of course, when I found this out the entire motor was completely tore down. My initial plan at the time was to stroke my "302" and do the 331 thing....But since I have a 289 block...I was kinda put off that idea. Now I have a completely tore apart 289 with a smaller budget.

So my question is, should I rebuild the 289 or swap it out with something else? I have never rebuilt an engine before, and tbh I'm not confident enough to do that myself right now.

Crate motors are out of my price range right now unfortunately. So I thought a short block and go from there? Or would that price be the same in the end?

There are just so many options out there - I can't figure out what I should ultimately do.

This will just be a street car, so performance isn't a huge factor for me. I really just need to get it done on a budget.

Thanks for any help! :nice:

And sorry in advance if I have to ask n00b questions. Like I said, I have basically no engine rebuilding experience.
 
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if its the original motor for the car then i would suggest rebuilding it for resale value. Its probably not something you want to do if you have never done it before. If your going to rebuild it then you should buy a lot of books on the rebuild.
 
Well, it's hard to tell if it's the original motor...Did they stamp the car's vin on the block? I thought I read that somewhere. Anyway, this car is far from original. The data plate is missing on the door, so all I really have is the Vin #, can I tell anything from the motor like the the code? I remember that being possible...

I planned on buying some books if I did ultimately rebuild it myself. I just always second guess myself on stuff all the time, lol... and I don't wanna mess up an engine especially :) I am mechanically inclined for sure, but engines have to be so precise.

Is machining required when you rebuild? Or will a cleaning and inspection suffice? I'm really in the dark when it comes to doing all this engine rebuilding.
 
The block will likely need to be machined if the cylinders are worn and the crank will likely have to be ground undersize if the journals are worn. That will require new oversize pistons and undersize bearings respectively.

You can build a 331 with the 289 block, BTW. What casting numbers are on it?
 
Typically, unless the engine is really trashed, a cylinder overbore and crank grind is all you will need. Bore to 4.030" is typically as far as you want to go. You might get away with 4.040", but 4.060" is a real crap shoot.

It would be to your advantage for cost and value to rebuild the original engine if possible.

One thing I recommend is to have the exhaust ports cleaned up and port matched to the exhaust. Even a stock 2V engine will benefit from this.
 
i would keep the 289 there not getting easy to find these days and are unique to our cars. As far as rebuilding it's really not that hard. you may get away with just a line bore and polishing of the crank and buy new pistons and bearings while your at it. or you may have to overbore it. A good machinist can easily do up to .60 if he knows what he's doing. If you like puzzles and are quite meticulous then once back from the machine shop its not too hard to put it all back together. I can get you all of the rebuild parts you want for a great price even performance engine parts too.
 
Wow, thanks for all the replies so far :)

To "Max headroom" ;) the casting numbers on the block are: C6AE-6015-C , which I've researched to being a 1966 289, correct? I had been researching as to whether it's a Hi-po, which I do not think it is, but for some reason the connecting rods look like hi-po variety...Maybe it was rebuilt in the past with those parts - not sure.. I didn't know you could go to a 331 with a 289. Would that even be cost effective? For some reason, I see all these guys saying you are better off using a 302 block for that type of situation.

Well I have plenty of time to work on it, so I can be slow and meticulous with it, no problem. I would really like to have an engine build under my belt, to be honest! It's just nerve racking work to me lol

Do you normally just find an engine shop locally, or send parts off? I know of a local one that is supposedly good. I do not know their price list, so I'll have to check that out.
 
I would highly suggest going to a few local repair shops and ask them bluntly which machine shop they use and why. you should get some of those shops agreeing on one shop over another and would be the place i went to. But it never hurts to have some detailed knowledge about what you want and whats going to be done so they don't rake you over the coals. Plus one thing ive learned is that you should know more then they do. You can get your education a few ways and this is just me. A detailed book only on that family of engines not a chilton manual not bad just not for me. And a dvd on that family of engines. you can read and watch and that will get you in the right directions. Don't forget tools. some you can rent others you will have to borrow or buy. I.E. torque wrench in foot lbs and inch lbs. piston ring compressor and installer. assembly lube. of course your sockets, wrenches and extensions. plenty of brake cleaner around and engine stand. and this does not include a few tools if your rebuilding the heads. Other important tools are the degree degree wheel and dial micrometer. also a digital micrometer for measurements. I'm sure i'm forgetting some things but this will get you going and should also be mentioned in the books and dvds.
 
To "Max headroom" ;) the casting numbers on the block are: C6AE-6015-C , which I've researched to being a 1966 289, correct? I had been researching as to whether it's a Hi-po, which I do not think it is, but for some reason the connecting rods look like hi-po variety...Maybe it was rebuilt in the past with those parts - not sure.. I didn't know you could go to a 331 with a 289. Would that even be cost effective? For some reason, I see all these guys saying you are better off using a 302 block for that type of situation.

Well I have plenty of time to work on it, so I can be slow and meticulous with it, no problem. I would really like to have an engine build under my belt, to be honest! It's just nerve racking work to me lol

Do you normally just find an engine shop locally, or send parts off? I know of a local one that is supposedly good. I do not know their price list, so I'll have to check that out.

Yeah, C6 indicates 1966 and if it's a smallblock, then it's a 289. You can identify a k-code 289(hipo) block by the slightly thicker main caps. To make a 289 into a 331, you'll need the same parts as you would for a 302; crank, rods, and pistons. If performance is not a key consideration, then don't concern yourself with a stroker kit. If you want to get it on the road above all else, I would probably start looking for a good used 302 or a cheap rebuildable one and rebuild it...or even a 351W. The 351W is closely related to the 289/302, but not plug 'n' play, so it would cost more to get one up and running.

As for shops, there is a big selection of good ones in SoCal, so I go local.

+1 on reading up. Knowledge is your best friend. I recommend "How to Rebuild Ford Small-Block Engines" by Tom Munroe, ISBN: 0-912656-89-1 for smallblock-specific information and "Ford Performance" by Pat Ganahl, ISBN: 1-884089-27-5 for more general reading. There may even be more recent books out; I haven't looked in a long time.
 
Yep, I actually started reading that book in the store a few months ago. I was thinking of going back later today or tomorrow and picking it up to immerse myself in it.

I actually have a 351W laying around, but it's kinda far off, and it's a 1974 model. I really would just like to get rid of it. It was part of a deal on some other stuff I got, so I didn't want to pass it up...But I have no intention on rebuilding it - at least not now!

Yeah my main concern right now is to get the car back on the road really. It has been apart for over a year now, just sitting and waiting on my wallet to have something in it :p

I wish I lived in SoCal yeah, I'm sure there are tons of shops there. I'm in Louisiana - so it's little harder to find some decent shops near me without going to Texas probably lol
 
You may be able to find a 5.0 roller motor at your local wrecker cheap. Not much to swap it in and you have all the parts (pulleys, oil pan, timing chain cover, etc) from your 289. The stock roller cam is good for power and mileage and the heads have hardened seats for unleaded gas. Cheap and easy.

There is nothing wrong with a daily driver 331 either. I have one. Purrs like a kitten and runs strong when I step on it and gets decent mileage if I keep my foot out of it. I don't wake the neighborhood when I leave for work at 5:30 AM.

Whatever you do, I would think about using a roller cam over a flat tappet. Oil isn't what it used to be and neither is the quality of new flat tappet lifters. I'm pretty sure none are made on this continent anymore. Wiping a lobe is more common than it used to be.
 
Guys, I'm starting to wonder if I would need to bore the cylinders at all. What determines whether or not this needs to be done?

The guy I bought my car from claimed that an engine rebuild had been done in the past - which I tend to believe with obvious signs of a rebuild, but he said that there was only 5k on it. I haven't put over 1000 since i bought. So... I'm wondering if just some new parts would suffice? I'm just trying to determine if I really need to spend that money. Shall I post pictures of the block and you can give your opinion? I dunno, he says only 5k, but it looks like it's been sitting around for awhile, and with quite a bit of grease and grim on the outside. But the cylinder walls look fairly well to me, when compared to others I have seen online etc. So would a honing possibly be sufficient?

I purchased one of those engine rebuild books, btw.
 
Often you can buy a good running car with what you need in it for around a grand. Keep the original motor and transmission under the bench, for a later restoration. Throw the newer engine on a stand, and throw a new oil pump, oil pump drive shaft and timing gear set on, with a new set of gaskets top to bottom. If you have any performance mods in mind, you can do most of them while the engine is on the stand, other than the obvious stuff! I.E., cam, lifters, intake, heads if the bottom end seems solid. Go with a .450's lift cam, 600 Holley, duraspark ignition set up, headers and 2 1/2 inch dual exhaust, and you will have a fun little car.
 
Interesting idea Woodsnake. I really wish I had a 302 block to work with, but I like the fact that I still have an original 289, so I'd like to ultimately work with that engine. I don't have a micrometer/bore gauge, so I really don't know how far off the bore is... if the block is even able to be bored over again. But like I said earlier - I think it could possibly get away with just a hone, cuz it looks like a glaze has started to form on the walls. but really it's very clean, tbh. I my guess right now is, I could get away with just a set of new pistons and maybe rods? Since I have C3AE rods... Also, I'd like to put aftermarket heads, and sell the 289 heads I have right now maybe....cuz I don't really care if it's at all matching. The crankshaft i have now, btw is a 1M crank. I don't know if it's been grinded though as I don't have a measurement.
 
Stock 289 heads aren't worth anything any more. That motor in the PU has most of the upgrades you'll want any way. Electronic ignition, intake, carb are already there. I like 289's as well, and have a couple of spares, for when they do get valuable. I'd look hard at swapping yours and his, and keeping yours under the bench. If it runs good and doesn't smoke, I think you'll come out time and money ahead......

Or build your motor. It's your time/money/prerogative. I'm just throwing out an option not everybody looks at.
 
yeah i would deffinatly keep the 289 again do a quick search on the net or in the junkyard, and tell me what engine you will find cheap and quickly and thats the 302. as far as what you need. see if the cyinders still have the crosshatch pattern on em and if there is any ridge on the very top of the cylinder this is with the heads off. you will need a bore guage to properly measure the bores. you can buy all of these engine tools at jegs. other places as well but so far i found that jegs was a solid price for all of em. once you have measured everything. you will know via your books if your in specs. if it was built just a short while ago you should be fine. you should ask the guy were he had the machine work done. then ask that shop. if they remember. I was lucky when i bought my project part of the smoking deal was a completely rebuilt 289. even the heads were done. And it was a good feeling to know that my block was original cause stamped right on the top of the deck under the intake was fomoco cool thing to see. plus right on top of the pistons is the oversize if your pistons or bores were done you should see that on top of the pistons.
 
First I'd visit a meeting of your local mustang club, here's yours in Lafayette:
Ford & Mustang Club Of Acadiana - Home their next meeting is in 4 days 4/14/10. Show up at the meeting and sit in, you don't have to be a member yet, let them know you're a visitor before the meeting begins and would like advice/recommendations on a reputable shop others have used. A face to face word or mouth is worth gold to me, that's the way I went and am very happy with the shop my local club suggested.

I chose to keep my stock 289 as a majority of mustangs at my local cruise ins and shows are already converted to a 302 and a majority of those are EFI so it just blows the classic look for me. I'm getting to be a minority for having the 289 which makes it more unique to me. I also wanted to track my car but it'll still be 90% DD street car. I chose to go for the extra power but on a conservative level and had my car stroked to 333ci @.040" over. Stroking to 333 didn't require my cylinder skirts to be notched as it would if I went 347 so there's less side stress on the cylinder walls. I also installed a set of good used AFR165's, weiand intake topped by a Demon Jr. 625cc and am fitting MAC longtube headers. To make it hwy friendly I'm installing a built AOD to work with my 3.50:1 rear geared 9". This combination should be quite street friendly and track fun as I'm guesstimating my stock 200hp 289 should now breathe too ~400hp. I chose to paint the block/int./heads ford blue for the stock sleeper look as much as I could, I didn't like the contrsting rough alum. intake vs. shiney alum. heads vs. blue engine so it tied it together better for me visually and I'm not into chrome on this build so it really tones down the engine bay:
IMG_0544.jpg


You won't know if you'll need a bore or hone without a shop measuring the full length of the cylinders, mine was already at .030" from a previous rebuild (should be stamped into the top of the pistons if yours are oversized) so I had to go .040" to clean it up. If you can stay at .030" you'll be at 331ci if you stroke. If you are going to just DD the car and not track it often I'd shoot for 9-10:1 comp. ratio so you'll need to match pistons to whatever head you choose to figure compression. Even if you don't stroke an upgrade to the cam and heads +4bbl. int./carb. will be a big improvement and will actually help MPG over the stock 2bbl. setup.

Good luck and let us know what you find out.
Jon