hey does anyone have a pic of the remoovele of the e brake cable i want to drop my rear end and dont know how to do ive never removed the drum nor do i know how to do it thanks guys
starting my swap
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willrich51
New Member
E brake
If your not using those brakes, pull of the drums and unbolt the four bolts holding on the backing plate, give a hit with a hammer and let it hang.
If your not using those brakes, pull of the drums and unbolt the four bolts holding on the backing plate, give a hit with a hammer and let it hang.
Cobra912
Active Member
i dont wanna damage anything thow with the hammer cause im leaving it 4lug for now
is there another way to do it without messing anything up thanks
willrich51
New Member
e brake
Give the backing plate a little tap, you don't have to hurt it. If the rear brakes are in good shape on the car you're fixing, do it on both cars. The brake and e brake cable will stay on the backing plates so you don't have to mess with them on eather car.
Good luck
Give the backing plate a little tap, you don't have to hurt it. If the rear brakes are in good shape on the car you're fixing, do it on both cars. The brake and e brake cable will stay on the backing plates so you don't have to mess with them on eather car.
Good luck
hey i need to swap my fuel lines where do i start and how do i do it.
and heres a stupid newb ? i needa drain the trany flued how do i do it.
lancec2c30
Member
Go to an auto parts store and buy "fuel line disconnect tools" They should come in a pack of 4. they look like little plastic donuts.
You have to use those to separate the compression fittings on the fuel lines at the engine. Then You un-hook the rubber hose at the fuel filter (gas tank end). After that just remove all the body screws or rivets that hold the fuel line to the chassis and pull it from under the car.
For the transmission fluid, passenger side of the tranny, there should be 2 plugs. They have a square drive insert. Put the head of your 3/8in ratchet in the UPPER plug first. It would be pointless to remove the drain plug, just to find out the upper fill plug won't come out. And you can't put any fluid back in your transmission.
You have to use those to separate the compression fittings on the fuel lines at the engine. Then You un-hook the rubber hose at the fuel filter (gas tank end). After that just remove all the body screws or rivets that hold the fuel line to the chassis and pull it from under the car.
For the transmission fluid, passenger side of the tranny, there should be 2 plugs. They have a square drive insert. Put the head of your 3/8in ratchet in the UPPER plug first. It would be pointless to remove the drain plug, just to find out the upper fill plug won't come out. And you can't put any fluid back in your transmission.
thank you im bout to pick up the tool and drain it lol also do i need to empty what gas i got in the notch its not much but the donor car has like half a tank in it
lancec2c30
Member
It doesn't matter how much fuel is in the tank. The only gas that will spill is going to be what is left in the fuel lines.
UMDSmith
Member
I know you already got them loose, but for future reference....
Another trick to break a stubborn bolt loose, if the position allows, is to use the weight of the car against of the bolt. I've done this when I had to help a guy get a flat tire off some junky rusted old minivan.
Take your junk ratchet, an extension pipe and get the pipe end to be low to the ground. Put a floor jack under the end and start cranking away. Eventually it will either bend the bar, or break the bolt loose. Plus it is a bit safer than jumping on the end of a pipe, especially for those with bad knees.
Work smarter, not harder.
Another trick to break a stubborn bolt loose, if the position allows, is to use the weight of the car against of the bolt. I've done this when I had to help a guy get a flat tire off some junky rusted old minivan.
Take your junk ratchet, an extension pipe and get the pipe end to be low to the ground. Put a floor jack under the end and start cranking away. Eventually it will either bend the bar, or break the bolt loose. Plus it is a bit safer than jumping on the end of a pipe, especially for those with bad knees.
Work smarter, not harder.
thanks i wasnt sure about it beter safe then sorry lol.
i got another ? for you how do i disconect the throtle cable my budy di it on the 4banger i would ask him but he moved to L.A and also can i use the one from the notch or do i swap the whole line as well.
lancec2c30
Member
On the throttle cable you have to undo the retaining clip on the throttle body. Once that is un-done, the end of the cable pops off of a ball on the throttle blade. Just pry it off with a screwdriver.
thanks i went out and did what you said and got it off. i got everything prety much disconected on the motor and ready to pull it out i just dont know where to hook the chains for the hoist to pull that bad boy out its geting on my nerves do you have pics on how you had yours when you pulled it if so could you post them or pm me with them thanks again for your help
lancec2c30
Member
On the V8?
There should be hoisting points on the drivers front and passenger back of the engine. They should be bolted to the block behind the header.
There should be hoisting points on the drivers front and passenger back of the engine. They should be bolted to the block behind the header.
they were these brakes that were bolted up witht he stock header but are long gone now cause i got bbk headers on there so they were removed i went on youtube abd some people had them on the heads pass rear and driver front is this what you are talking about
lancec2c30
Member
If you removed them when you went with aftermarket headers, then you're right. That won't work.
It's kind of risky, and I wouldn't want you to break a bolt off in the block. But some people will pull a bolt out of the header front drivers side and pass. rear. Then install a longer one. You put the longer bolt through one of the chain links then into the header and block. Pull then engine out from the middle of the chain, to keep everything somewhat balanced on the way out.
It's kind of risky, and I wouldn't want you to break a bolt off in the block. But some people will pull a bolt out of the header front drivers side and pass. rear. Then install a longer one. You put the longer bolt through one of the chain links then into the header and block. Pull then engine out from the middle of the chain, to keep everything somewhat balanced on the way out.
damn headers wont let me put a longer bolt in so im going to have to it the other way this things pissin me off but ive been doing little things here and there so im hoping by the end of the week ill have it swaped over
