Code Retrieval Driving me Nuts: W/Pics

[Burlyirishdude]

Hey everybody,

88 GT HO Cali MAF W/ Smog pump AUTO(aod)

I passed smog a week ago, got my tags everything running fine with minor tune up DIY stuff needed(TPS, Timing etc) I was breaking in the new motor and the smog pump pulley locked up on me.

Bought a shorter belt(taurus i think) and ran all the front end pulleys Minus smog pump.

I drove it for about 4 days before i swapped pumps but now I'm getting all kinds of EGR codes and the HUGO codes 41/91 saying i'm lean. The o2 stuff is erratic sometimes is shows in continuous mem, sometimes it doesn't. ARGGG!

My idle is titties(700rpm), base stock timing is 10deg, tps volt at .91 at idle, no vacuum leaks, the salt and pepper shakers have been cleaned and regreased, replaced the EGR.

i feel like i've done my fair share of searching and trial and error and now i'm just gonna ask for help.

How can i get rid of: KOEO/KOER
EEC-IV error code 32(EVP volt low)(EPT circuit low)(EGR not seated) ???
The code shows on both KOEO/KOER and on EO i still get a pass code 11 with the code 32!

The EGR spins and then tightens up and then spins again(changing the voltage from the stick inside?)

Thanks for any new info or specific to my case. I have all kinds of printouts from Stangnet so please spare my thread the repost of the EGR sticky.

 

[liljoe07]

What do you mean the EGR spins?

Anyways, have you gone over the 10 pin connectors behind the intake?

 

[Mustang5L5]

I'm a little confused on the EGR spinning as well. What do you mean here?


OT, but how do you like that scan-tool? I'm looking for something that does OBD2 and EEC-IV. That looks like a nice tool. You like it?

 

[BYRDPE]

I was breaking in the new motor and the smog pump pulley locked up on me.

i believe mine may be locking up. did it give any kind of warning? i have a belt screeching sound at start up that i have been trying to pinpoint and i believe it it the smog pump.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Take the belt off and spin the smog pump pulley. It spins with a little resistance in spots, as it pumps air, but shouldn't be hard to turn by hand

 

[BYRDPE]

Take the belt off and spin the smog pump pulley. It spins with a little resistance in spots, as it pumps air, but shouldn't be hard to turn by hand

it's not hard at all. however, the pully is a tad wobbly.
damn.. this sucks. i would need at least 3 different sizes short belts to pinpoint the culprit. i guess the bad one will eventually lock up. i cranked it with the blower belt installed so i know it's not the blower or the crank.

 

[Burlyirishdude]

The egr spins in my hand. From where the gasket and egr mount to the TB/IM area, the portion at the end with the standard ford connector and one Vac line, looks like it has cheese grater holes in it. that whole back portion including the plug spins. It's the weirdest thing.

@byrdpe: I got the smog pump for >100$ at autozone. Pull the two bolts out save yourself the time and change the pulley.
Tighten up, run it for a couple, turn off, re-tighten.
The noise the motor made when that sucker locked up was something fierce.

Plus now i think i ruined the o2 sensors or just sped up the inevitable with those bungs.
Anybody else have a guess at how to fix this code? Sounds like i might be being a whole new EGR unit if everybody is puzzled about this sit and spin thing.

If i find out whats up i'll post back up.....or if anyone has an ideas....throw em out here.
im determined to fix this.

 

[BigmacK192]

The egr spins in my hand. From where the gasket and egr mount to the TB/IM area, the portion at the end with the standard ford connector and one Vac line, looks like it has cheese grater holes in it. that whole back portion including the plug spins. It's the weirdest thing.

If i find out whats up i'll post back up.....or if anyone has an ideas....throw em out here.
im determined to fix this.

That outer body is not supposed to spin at all. Every EGR valve I've handled is supposed to be stationary. The only moving parts you should have would be the spring inside that would open and close the valve when activated by the vacuum. That tells me it could be leaking at would probably need replacement. Hit up a local store. Shouldn't be more than $60 (all it cost me when I swapped mine last year because the inner baffling failed).

 

[Burlyirishdude]

Awesome. I hope the pic i posted helped in describing that sit and spin.
I'll go try and get that whole unit.

@mustang5l5: Dude this is one of the best scanner tools I've ever used. The ease of it all is worth the price tag. The bag comes with every major manu. self check connector. The mustang one is particulary nice, it does have some weird directions though to test all the actuators and relays, rpm load meas, wiggle test, cylinder balance test(for sefi only). Take for instance for me to do my koer test...."turn key position to off wait for prompt. Turn on engine and warm up. Turn steering wheel right 1/2 turn wait 4 sec. Press release brake. Quickly push accelerator to floor. " then all the codes come back. and it comes with a circuit wiggle test. the only thing i wish it did was monitor while i'm driving.

 

[Burlyirishdude]

Now after letting the stang sit for 4 days(needed a break from this code thing) I started it up and right away the CEL came on Solid. I ran a KOEO test and now i have 4 codes. All of which i know what it stands for i just don't know if it's one piece of my electronics that's causing all the codes to come on.
I'm getting:
Code 31
Code 32(continuous)
Code 41 (Continuous)(Hego) No switch Too lean
Code 91 (Continuous)(hego) No switch. Too lean

I want to just replace the o2 sensors and see what goes away. The thing that's tripping me out is the 31/32 codes. All my wires seem fine and are routed correctly. The next thing i guess would be to check for break or voltage at the ECU and at the sensor.
Any suggestions as to why the Hego's would lite up on the CEL? In combination with the EGR/EVP stuff? I don't even know what my car has besides the EGR/EVP.
ANY help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[Burlyirishdude]

OK so it took me some time to get all of the EGR/EVP stuff down but after changing out some stuff i have cleared all my codes!
Fix for DTC32: Replace EGR & Solenoid. Here's what it looks like now and how much i got it for.

EGR Solenoid. Cheap

EGR....not so much but still a good $ for an essential part

Total amount not bad....considering now i have no codes!
Compliments to Stangnet for the help.

 

[BYRDPE]

glad you got it sorted. thanks for posting the fix.

 

[Burlyirishdude]

no worries Byrd-meng! Just hope this thread finds someone who was pulling their hair out like i was and helps fix their problems. my goal is to be a contributing member. I'm working on some after effects stuff for a new banner for stangnet. when it's done i wanna pm you with it. cool?