Everyone -
Though I'm a few years late to this thread, it just saved my behind today as I was fighting with the e-brake line all the way with my Mustang. I managed to get one to caliper to bolt back in even with the pesky line in the way, but the other just wasn't have'n it. I don't even get me started on the freak'n turning the piston thing.
In thanks for your ideas and help above, I wish to return to you . . . . how I get the e-brake springs in with simple hand tools in just a few minutes. (There was no way I was going to admit defeat and take it to a dealer.)
So, if anyone ever reads this . . .here goes!
Ingredients:
Large Channel Locks
Small gauge bailing wire
I'll let you read that again in case you don't believe your read it correctly the first time.
Large Channel Locks
Small gauge bailing wire
Okay, on with the show.
1) take a GOOD look at the springs and how they are setup before you pop them out. Stick you phone under there and take a picture. Especially if you are doing your brakes on both wheels at the same time. Notice, the spring coils are horizontal with the ground. Not vertical. I didn't the first time.
2) Okay, follow the advice of all the posts above and remove your e-brake cables before changing your pads. Your springs will come off in this process and fly away. Go find them.
Note, they flew so far away because they are really under a lot of pressure. So, keep that in mind when doing the next steps. Remember - we are putting metal springy things under pressure. Be careful, wear safety goggles and gloves. You've been warned.
3) Put your channel lock at its widest setting, put the two ends of the springs in the jaws and squeeze them just a little. My channel lock at its widest setting squished them about half an inch.
4) Wrap a few turns of bailing wire around the spring ends while they are still in the channel locks.
5) Open the channel locks, move it to the next smaller setting (or skip a setting and go two in) and squeeze, undo the bailing wire and put it back on in the new tighter position.
6) Repeat this process until the ends of the spring are about 1/2" apart, don't hurry.
7) Put two wraps of bailing wire the final squeeze and twist the ends together a few times. Loose'n the channel locks and the spring should settle in a tightly wound ball of metal with the ends about 3/4" apart. Be careful.
8) Put the e-brake cable back in, the end lug back in its u-slot, and its lock washer thingy in place. Now put the spring in place and slowly release the bailing wire (you can also cut the bailing wire with diagonal cutters. If done right - the spring should ease back into place at normal tension.
You may have some excess bailing wire trapped under the spring. Just trim it away. I used a very thing gauge of wire for this.
Channel locks also help turn the freak'n piston when the stupid tool won't work alone. Just use them to help get it turning past the hard part and do NOT cut into the calipers boot.
I hope this helps someone out there. I am NOT a professional mechanic, so take this for what its worth. If you are not comfortable doing the above, DON'T. If any of you think the above is the worse advice in the world - say so! All I will say, it worked for me. Hurray.
