Welding subframes

  • Sponsors (?)


by "arc welding" I assume you mean stick welding (or SMAW - shielded metal arc welding)...since MIG welding is arc welding "Gas Metal Arc Welding (GMAW)".'


anyway; it's all doing the same thing. A proper weld, done by stick OR MIG, is all the same.

its not really used outside on construction projects because the wind can blow the shielding gas away.

your car is probably entirely built with MIG welding; so yeah, I too hope it's strong enough...haha
 
I don't know about stands. I would put it up on ramps instead. Everytime I ever put ANY of my stangs up on stands, it always jams the doors shut, or if one is open, I can't close it fully. Putting it up on stands flexes the frame because of the weight hanging over the front side, thus pulls the doors upwards. Probably not a good idea if you're putting in sub frames. You want the frame straight as possible. So I would just roll it up onto 4 ramps.
 
I mig welded mine. Used a 4 wheel lift at the base. worked great. I didnt pull back the carpet and it didnt catch on fire. I just went slow and did little bits at a time. no issues
 
Wouldnt it be if the car was up on ramps or on stands that would keep the vehicle suspension at its normal load?

Yes as long as the ground that the ramps are on is level and even. I would still double check the door operation before striking the arc. Stand should be placed as near to the normal load point as possible (IE, as close to wheel as you can get) on the front suspension.

Yes, the best way is a drive-on lift, but some of us LOVE doing our own work and gotta find ways to do things without the big ticket items available hehe.
 
I just welded mine about a month ago. Stands are fine, just make sure the rear are on the tube and far out near the tires, and I put my front stands under the spring cups. I also checked the front door gaps to ensure the car was not flexed.

I tested my welds by jacking up corners of the car, introducing flex into the body by using the weight of the car, and no issues at all. The subframes did as they should, and stiffened the car like a plank.

Don't worry about the carpet, especially if your subframes are strictly the box steel type. Welding is very localized heat, and on the bottom of your box frame, not that much heat gets transferred to the floorpan.

Please be careful on the passenger side near the fuel lines though. I went extra slow, even after pulling them out of the way a bit. My jackstands aren't very high, so it was a tough weld for me underneath the car (couldn't turn my head with the helmet on, would bash it on the underside of the car), as such, my welds aren't pretty. I was always taught that it doesn't matter how pretty structural welds are, what matters is penetration and strength, grinders are your friend!
 
I put subframes on cars with it in on lifts all the time. Never had an issue with doors not opening or shutting. I like it cause when you lower the car down, the chassis has a kind of preload on it. Like body work, there isn't one way of doing things and everyone has there own way. Its whatever works for you.
 
Don't they have subframes that bolt on instead of welding? I have no idea how to weld at all.

Yes.


-------------------------------------


For what its worth, I have jacked the car up with a floor jack and put the subframes in with one side of the car on jack stands. Then lowered the car and did the other side the same way. Never had any issues. I have a friend who builds race cars and he said that all this loading the suspension and welding the sfc's in is a buch of whoey. The metal work of the unibodys are thin where you weld the sfc's in. Its going to flex back into position according to him.

Personally I like to put the front wheels on ramps and then jack the rear end up as high as possible and put jack stands under the rear end. This keeps the suspension loaded and gives enough room to get under the car and work.:shrug: