Rear End Lift

Yep.....cherry bombs, pt #87522. $28.21 each from Performance Exhaust Plus, Bridgeton, Mo.

I think it depends on the brand for being reversible or not. Mine had no arrows or directions but the exhaust guy kept looking inside and trying to mount them the other way from what I wanted.
 
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Thats the way the factory did it. I'm not sure why they do it like that, except maybe to make it fit up against the floorpans.

Back in high school when me 65 was still an I6, I had reproduction/replacement exhaust on it, and it was done similarly.

Crush bent exhaust is a restriction in the system.

With clamps like that its no wonder a lot of cars ended up with random exhaust leeks. There should be flanges that bolt together.
 
Yep.....cherry bombs, pt #87522. $28.21 each from Performance Exhaust Plus, Bridgeton, Mo.

I think it depends on the brand for being reversible or not. Mine had no arrows or directions but the exhaust guy kept looking inside and trying to mount them the other way from what I wanted.

Thats cool. You can't beat it especially for about 50 bucks for both. I just looked on Summit and they want 50 each for them. I wonder why.

I almost put packs on mine, but deicided to go with Dynomax Ultraflo which is essentially the same thing as the Race Magnum they used to make. I like it, it is straight though and has a glassy sound. I have a youtube clip in my sig, but it sounds alot better in person.
 
Guy's,
I want to lift the rear end of my 65 Rag Top about 1 1/2" to install larger tires. I recently installed new leaf springs and really can not afford a new pair of 1 1/2" lift springs. My question is has anyone lifted the rear end of a 65 using longer lift shackles and will they clear the rear valance? Or would i be better off to bite the bullet and replace the rear spings, I would really prefer to use longer lift shackles as this is a daily driver. Any thoughts?

No one asked the obvious question...at least I didn't see it....

What size tires/rims do you want to run?
 
Crush bent exhaust is a restriction in the system.

With clamps like that its no wonder a lot of cars ended up with random exhaust leeks. There should be flanges that bolt together.

OE exhaust was a problem only when assembled by idiots. The slip joints were easy, quick, and tight. The bends you are worried about allow the pipes to go over the center plates of convertibles. All Mustang systems had these, even the BOSS 429, which didn't come as a convertible.

Restriction was not a problem with the Arvinode, since it was a completely straight through system, without so much as a baffle plate.

You can hear it here:

 
The bends are crush bent instead of mandril bent which create a much greater restriction in the exhaust flow.

I would never run clamps on my car. Then again I'd never try to build a factory stock type car. Flat flanges are a much better way of puting exhaust together then slip joints with clamps. And they look WAY better.
 
Don't shocks typically generate more force at the mounting points than springs? While I don't question that air shocks have punctured upper mounts, I wonder if a good stiff set of Penskes wouldn't of done the same thing on those cars. Maybe it has more to do with steel condition? Just curious, as I don't envision air shocks being the mod done to pristine chassis back in the day.
 
With air shocks, adding the "air" cancels out a lot of the actual shock movement unless the car is real heavy. This puts the strain on the mounting points. Regular shocks, whether they are heavy duty or not, still have all the original travel when the car moves up and down. There is not a lot of hard pressure there. The shocks with the coil springs on them act a lot like the air shocks by eliminating a lot of the shock movement. The load of the car is carried by the springs. Air shocks take the load weight of the car from the springs and put it all on the shocks....when aired up. Without air, they act as normal shocks.

As for being used when the cars were new, I know guys that added them right off the showroom as there were wanting wider tires and that was a fast and cheap way to do it.
 
Don't shocks typically generate more force at the mounting points than springs? While I don't question that air shocks have punctured upper mounts, I wonder if a good stiff set of Penskes wouldn't of done the same thing on those cars. Maybe it has more to do with steel condition? Just curious, as I don't envision air shocks being the mod done to pristine chassis back in the day.

Sure, but you have to do the math:

Impact from pothole≤design strength of shock mount. Happy driver.

Impact from pothole+weight of car≥design strength of shock mount. Happy repair shop.
 
air shocks are ok as long as you dont try to use them to raise the rear end by increasing the pressure. increasing the pressure in a air shock to raise the rear end result in a lot of extra load on the upper shock mount and they can rip through the trunk floor.

You are correct. I have Monroes air shocks on both of my 65 and 66 but only to compensate ride height when the load at the rear seat changes. 99% of the time i am using very little psi on them (10-15 psi)and i get a rear height of 26.5" just to keep the shocks in good condition. If you don't put at least 10# they will be damage by bottoming in bumps ect.
 
Even using air shocks to compensate for loads is not good. Once the springs are relieved from carrying the load, the shock mounts are in harms way. For load changes, a proper set of overload springs should be used....not the shocks with springs either.
 
Just how big are your passengers? :)
I have seated my wife in front 190lbs, my neighbors son 285 lbs @ rear and my youngest son 220lbs plus me 185 lbs all at the same time.

monroe.jpg
 
@ARPM.......you actually drive that car???? How fast, at a full idle? Geez i would be afraid id get that sweet undercarriage dirty, lol. I get sick to my stomach enough worrying about the topside of my car let alone underneath it.....i guess that was my way of complimenting your car.