Electric fan in your classic?

[v8only]

you're a great help!

[email protected]

I think I understand...notching it out allowed you to slip that flat mounting flange behind the mounting surface of the rad support, so that the rad actually sticks partway through the rad support, giving it another inch or so...then you shimmed the space up and bolted it down?

I ordered a few days ago the wider 20" 1967 radiator for my 66 coupe, so I'm thinking that if I trim out the rad support, then notch it like you did, I can achieve the same results with a bigger radiator. I've got a mark viii fan which pulls significantly more air, and is almost a perfect match for the wider 67 radiator.

Thanks for the pics!

 

[Steve69]

Im running that same radiator in mine. What is the upper hose off of? I haven't found a upper hose to fit even after trying to match something up at a couple of parts store.

Thanks
Steve69

I think for a 289 that should work fine. I am running dual fans from summitt and they are combined 2700cfm and that keeps my 408 nice and cool down here in FL! It also depends on your radiator but as your motor is a 289 I would assume the stock radiator will work just fine

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[Steve69]

You can trim that taurus fan shroud down a lot also. I also went with the DC controller also. I've had it for 4 years and haven't had any problems with it.

Steve69

 

[65FBE2]

If it were me, I would just get a good alum rad made to fit your car ( I use a Northern) and add the largest electric fan that will fit as a puller, with a thermostic control and your done. None of this hacking up your car to make somthing fit that was never ment to be. The stock 65-66 rad in a new modern alum design, given a good fan with enough air flow will cool a 450hp motor. No prolblem.

 

[robbz28]

I thought about buying a new aluminum radiator, but then It occured to me that without making tons of horsepower the 3 row copper is probably best for my application. Copper dissapates heat way better then aluminum (hence why they dont use aluminum in electrical wire). My new fan arrived today, gonna wire it up this weekend and I will have a verdict asap! Thanks for the ideas and input.

 

[Steve69]

Go Aluminum. I ran the Taurus Fan on a New Copper Radiator and It cooled slightly better. When I went Aluminum it dropped the Temp a lot. Dont waste your time with a copper radiator because you wont be happy with it.

Steve69

 

[65coupe408w]

I ran a 3 row northern stock replacement on my car with electric fan and it just couldnt keep my car cool. The stock sized radiators just do not have enough surface area to dissipate the heat fast enough. This is why I ended up having to do some cutting, now with more than twice the surface area the car runs nice and cool and the fans only kick on in traffic. Most of these cooling solutions are application specific, jsut depends on what powertrain you are running.

 

[Federico Garza]

you're a great help!

[email protected]

I think I understand...notching it out allowed you to slip that flat mounting flange behind the mounting surface of the rad support, so that the rad actually sticks partway through the rad support, giving it another inch or so...then you shimmed the space up and bolted it down?

I ordered a few days ago the wider 20" 1967 radiator for my 66 coupe, so I'm thinking that if I trim out the rad support, then notch it like you did, I can achieve the same results with a bigger radiator. I've got a mark viii fan which pulls significantly more air, and is almost a perfect match for the wider 67 radiator.

Thanks for the pics!

You nailed it.... I was able to move the radiator about 1/2" forward. If your changing the radiator and modifing the support might as well go crossflow and aluminum, I went this route because I didnt have funds to change out the radiator...

 

[iskwezm]

I put a wider Northern Chevy universal radiator that goes frame rail to frame rail with a taurus fan.Keeps the car at about 168-175 in stop and go traffic with extra heat from the turbo.

 

[65FBE2]

Where it is true that copper dissipates heat better than alum. When it comes to radiators that does not hold true. It has to do with all the lead used to hold them together, it creates dead spots. Then there is the strength issue. Alum rads are far stronger, thats why they use 2 rows instead of 3 or 4. They can expose more coolant to the cooling surface with larger tubes because of the added strength. And because they are all welded with alum there are no dead spots. They can also stand a much higher pressure so you can add a 20+ psi cap. There is just no comparison between the new alum and the old copper/brass rad's. Note; my brother is a ME working for Northern Rad.