Alright guys, enlighten me. My 67 is my first mustang. I have done a lot of reading on the gauges and problems with them. I have put a new painless wiring harness (for the 67-68 mustang), new seding units, new instrument voltage regulator in. My gauges work, but how reliable are they? I plan on driving this car a lot when it's done. I bought a new voltage regulator and had the joy of watching my gauges pulse, then I even built my own regulator and it works, but I still doubt my gauges. Anyone with any ideas? As of today, I am just planning on getting me a gauge pillar and installing a new oil psi and water temp gauge. I hate to do this, but it just seems the only reliable solution...
Mustang Gauge Reliability
- Thread starter robbz28
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They are not that bad. You just need to learn how to read them. For example the middle of the gauge isnt the middle of the range. Notice how the geauge the ticks are grouped closer together at the left. And as you move right the ticks start to open up. All your gauges work the same. Fuel temp and oil. Once you figure whats what its pretty reliable. the only thing that tends to crap out is the regulator.
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Im not saying you are wrong, but my gauges dont have "ticks" it has a tick on the left, a tick on the right and a solid line connecting them in an arc at the bottom. The factory 67 gauges. the only gauge with tick marks is the fuel, battery, and speedo, the oil and temp just have the open sweep, and i have a mechanical oil psi gauge that reads nearly 50 when my factory gauge barely gets off of the bottom "tick" anyway, like i said, maybe I do need to learn to read it, i just figured it would read a little different, maybe my oil psi gauge is bad?
Hey,
You are misunderstanding me. The point I am trying to get across is that your gauges move in the same manner as the one i showed you above. I am not saying you have tick marks. If your gauges had tick marks and digits they would resemble the gauge I showed you. Not Like this one below. See how the one below you can say each major tick is 50 degrees and each minor tick is 25 degrees. Unlike the one above each tick means a different thing depending where it is.
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I have already built my own, the only problem I have with all the ones that i have found or seen built is that they give 5 volts instead of the 6 that the gauge requires (or so I thought). Anyway, I built one, tested it and it gave a constant 5.08 volts, I wired it into my car and the gauges work, I just don't know how well they are working. With the factory IVR I bought, my gauges had a heartbeat, and would jump up and down (I know its because of the IVR turning off and on) but half of the time it wouldnt pulse right and my gauges would go south. But yeah, I do use them as an indicator also, but I don't like to rely on an indicator, I like to know. Anyway, I think I am going to get a dual pillar pod and stick me a good mechanical oil and water temp gauge in it....Which begs another question, where is an alternate place to tap into the oil pressure on a 289 other than where the current sending unit is screwed in?
You dont want to go more than 5,20 volts. Thats where the needle cant go anymore ( @ 10 ohms). Thats the point where the gauge starts to burn internally. 5.20 will help with the bottom end ie fuel gauge but the top end suffers and over shoots. I sell the adjustable ones on ebay for 20 bucks. I set mines for 5.06.
Item number: 270578739399.
tcrote5516
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- Jan 7, 2010
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I didnt trust mine enough so I installed the new gauge pillars from Mustangs Unlimited (they come with textured matched laft and right pillars which is nice). I loaded them with an engine temp and oil pressure (the two most important animals in the cluster) These are WELL worth the peace of mind and have helped me tune (and change out) my thermostat.
Yeah, I have seen some cars with that, its a real nice looking setup, gauges are not in the way, but they are right there where you need them, BAM! But I also like the fact that it comes with 2 pillars, so the passenger side doesn't look silly. I just havent decided that when I do get them if I am going to leave the factory ones hooked up (seems kind of redundant, then yet I hate to see something not working, even if it don't work well) Plus if i did leave them hooked up that would leave me with 3 temp sensors in my intake, lol. 2 gauge and 1 fan switch. Will probably go with mechanical gauges as well, I just trust them more...
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