COBRA90GT
Mod Dude
Ok Pictures of the 90 GT I just bought...
- Thread starter MY 85 GT
- Start date
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Strippt88
New Member
Nice car!
You only overpaid if you find a nicer one for less money- your car looks good from here, if it doesn't give you any problems, you'll surely get your money out of it. GT's had GT taillights. If you wanted LX tails you shoulda got an LX. Those cheese graders while maybe not the coolest thing to the latest crowd, are still part of the whole 87-93 GT thing, and that makes them cool. Making that change sells out the car for the latest fad IMO.
You only overpaid if you find a nicer one for less money- your car looks good from here, if it doesn't give you any problems, you'll surely get your money out of it. GT's had GT taillights. If you wanted LX tails you shoulda got an LX. Those cheese graders while maybe not the coolest thing to the latest crowd, are still part of the whole 87-93 GT thing, and that makes them cool. Making that change sells out the car for the latest fad IMO.
twogts4us
15 Year Member
GSP393
New Member
OneSlw5point0
New Member
Damn thats sweet. For a little over 300 bucks you could get some nice new clear headlights, lx tail lights, and a shorty antenna. then that car would look CLEAN.
skunk21
Active Member
Interor shots will be up soon maybe tonite...Just worked on cleaning it up all day....
..The front seats are covered in black leather..I need to do the rear seat to match even tho the rears are black cloth and in perfect condition i still want them to match...EEK 
...the motor is bascilly all stock AND flithy... except for a 70mm TB,K&N air filter in the stock air box a set Of BBK shorties,UPR off road X-pipe and Mac cat back..oh yeah it has a Pro 5.0 shifter with the stock boot and shifter handle....And it has god awful speakers in the door panels that i want to go back to a slim line speaker and put the stock speaker grilles...Plans for the car are easy Vortech V3 sci 6 pounds of boost. 255lph fuel pump 42lb injectors and a Abaco meter...subframes,lower the rear a little to match the lowered front..gears down the road but i might go just 3.27's or 3.55's this is my daily so i dont want to go crazy...I have LX tails debating if i want to put them in or not...
...During the winter the car is going to get painted all charcoal..Clear Headlights are on the way..New foglights also....And then just cruise it..LOL...I hope to get around 300 rwhp and have a nice high 12 second ride to be my daily....
..The front seats are covered in black leather..I need to do the rear seat to match even tho the rears are black cloth and in perfect condition i still want them to match...EEK ...the motor is bascilly all stock AND flithy... except for a 70mm TB,K&N air filter in the stock air box a set Of BBK shorties,UPR off road X-pipe and Mac cat back..oh yeah it has a Pro 5.0 shifter with the stock boot and shifter handle....And it has god awful speakers in the door panels that i want to go back to a slim line speaker and put the stock speaker grilles...Plans for the car are easy Vortech V3 sci 6 pounds of boost. 255lph fuel pump 42lb injectors and a Abaco meter...subframes,lower the rear a little to match the lowered front..gears down the road but i might go just 3.27's or 3.55's this is my daily so i dont want to go crazy...I have LX tails debating if i want to put them in or not......During the winter the car is going to get painted all charcoal..Clear Headlights are on the way..New foglights also....And then just cruise it..LOL...I hope to get around 300 rwhp and have a nice high 12 second ride to be my daily....
I could be wrong here but 6psi on a stock motor isn't going to get you 300 wheel or into the 12s... If that was the case everyone would be throwing 1220s on and calling it quits
Well rule of thumb for every pound of boost is 15 hp...so with 6pds thats 90 hp...headers and no cats and good exhaust should be good for another 10-15 hp no?...so i think it would be close to at least 280-300 rwhp?...im going to be running 42's 255 lph pump,abaco meter..I might even run a better intake if i need be to get me a little more HP....I know the stock heads are killing me..but im not looking for a 10 second car...I think its possible to get into the high 12's with what im going to do NO?
stock intake is EXTREMELY restrictive, its definitly not doing you any favors.
you also have to consider drivetrain loss, tuning, blowby, engine condition etc
heres a formula that ive seen quite a few times, im not a math wiz though
[ (HP of NA car) x (1 + (boost psi/14.7)) = HP at boost psi ]
225(flywheel) x (1+(6/14.7)= roughly 316 fwhp in ideal conditions
im not saying its not possible to make 300hp on 6psi, but theres more too it than a tunable MAF and a set of flowmasters. Just to be clear, im not trying to single you out in any way, just speaking from my own understanding. heres some info from procharger's page
"There is a lot of misunderstanding in the industry about boost and its role in making horsepower. Many believe boost has a linear relationship to horsepower output numbers. However, testing shows additional boost does not necessarily equate itself to automatic gains of overall power.
Reducing backpressure through an engine can negatively impact overall boost levels. For example, consider an engine operating at 10 psi of boost with a highly restrictive set of mufflers or cats. Replacement of the standard exhaust system with a free flowing exhaust will typically have the net effect of lowering boost values while actually increasing the total horsepower figure.
Increasing boost pressure will not necessarily increase horsepower figures either. A Roots or screw type supercharger produces large amounts of heat because of their inherently inefficient compression process. Therefore, with positive displacement superchargers an increase in boost will only aggravate the condition and to avoid detonation, timing must be retarded. This reduced timing condition will dramatically reduce horsepower gains.
Given these examples, it becomes clear a linear relationship simply does not exist between boost and horsepower. Increased boost is merely one of many variables to consider when seeking higher levels of power output from your engine."
the 12 second 1/4 mile time just comes down to driving ability
/derail
you also have to consider drivetrain loss, tuning, blowby, engine condition etc
heres a formula that ive seen quite a few times, im not a math wiz though
[ (HP of NA car) x (1 + (boost psi/14.7)) = HP at boost psi ]
225(flywheel) x (1+(6/14.7)= roughly 316 fwhp in ideal conditions
im not saying its not possible to make 300hp on 6psi, but theres more too it than a tunable MAF and a set of flowmasters. Just to be clear, im not trying to single you out in any way, just speaking from my own understanding. heres some info from procharger's page
"There is a lot of misunderstanding in the industry about boost and its role in making horsepower. Many believe boost has a linear relationship to horsepower output numbers. However, testing shows additional boost does not necessarily equate itself to automatic gains of overall power.
Reducing backpressure through an engine can negatively impact overall boost levels. For example, consider an engine operating at 10 psi of boost with a highly restrictive set of mufflers or cats. Replacement of the standard exhaust system with a free flowing exhaust will typically have the net effect of lowering boost values while actually increasing the total horsepower figure.
Increasing boost pressure will not necessarily increase horsepower figures either. A Roots or screw type supercharger produces large amounts of heat because of their inherently inefficient compression process. Therefore, with positive displacement superchargers an increase in boost will only aggravate the condition and to avoid detonation, timing must be retarded. This reduced timing condition will dramatically reduce horsepower gains.
Given these examples, it becomes clear a linear relationship simply does not exist between boost and horsepower. Increased boost is merely one of many variables to consider when seeking higher levels of power output from your engine."
the 12 second 1/4 mile time just comes down to driving ability
/derail
Well i dont know about all that you just posted but..lol..but ive taken cars i ran pre blower and pre nitrous and well i got very good results by bolting them on....For example i took a 1962 chevy impala that had a 283 cu inch motor that ran in the high 14.s bolted up a B&M 144 blower on it and went 13.7@102 i took an 89 iroc that ran 14.4 bolted up a 100 shot of nitrous and went 13.0 ...I didnt change anything on either car just a power adder...So i guess either i can drive or the power adder really worked,.I had a 2006 Magnum SRT-8 ran 13.0 bolted up a 100 shot and i went 12.0 @115 on street tires...so i dont belive its imposible to get my 90 GT into the high 12's with a few bolt ons it has and a blower but i could be wrong....
...So i guess either i can drive or the power adder really worked,.I had a 2006 Magnum SRT-8 ran 13.0 bolted up a 100 shot and i went 12.0 @115 on street tires...so i dont belive its imposible to get my 90 GT into the high 12's with a few bolt ons it has and a blower but i could be wrong....
Strippt88
New Member
Wow, lots of math- though none of that ever made my car go anywhere. You don't need any adder to make your 5.0 run high 12's, just choose your h/c/i correctly and do some chassis work. It wants to breathe so let it.
^ exactly.
IMO, an H/C/I upgrade is a MUCH better investment on a stock car than an S/C.
The stock 5.0 is very restrictive in terms of breathing (intake and heads are terrible as most guys know). Yes you CAN throw an S/C on it and see an improvement but its like pissing in the wind IMO.
Get the engine breathing with aftermarket heads, a better flowing intake and a nice cam and then boost it and the gains are much more drastic . Not that you cant S/C it and then do H/C/I, but a 6psi centri blower isnt the end-all upgrade.
Its your car and your money, so its your decision. its a good looking car, good luck with whatever you end up doing.
IMO, an H/C/I upgrade is a MUCH better investment on a stock car than an S/C.
The stock 5.0 is very restrictive in terms of breathing (intake and heads are terrible as most guys know). Yes you CAN throw an S/C on it and see an improvement but its like pissing in the wind IMO.
Get the engine breathing with aftermarket heads, a better flowing intake and a nice cam and then boost it and the gains are much more drastic . Not that you cant S/C it and then do H/C/I, but a 6psi centri blower isnt the end-all upgrade.
Its your car and your money, so its your decision. its a good looking car, good luck with whatever you end up doing.
skunk21
Active Member
a bone stocker will hit somewhere in the area of 190rwhp. those few bolt ons asside from s/c really aren't worth a ton. going by your formula of 15hp per 1lb of boost + static loss would put you in the area of 260-270rwhp. Heads and intake will take well into where you want to be period. E7's and the stock intake are chokers pure and simple. a set of P's and a explorer intake for a budjet setup.
Nice car!
ehh dude, people been changing them since 1987, it's not a fad, it's common sense! The only thing worse than cheese graters is altezas.
skunk21
Active Member
ehh dude, people been changing them since 1987, it's not a fad, it's common sense! The only thing worse than cheese graters is altezas.
to each his own. I for one will be keeping mine on but I don't knock anyone who changes them, just get sick of people telling me to get rid of them.
