Please Help My 5.0 cutting out ???

pitstang92

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Jun 12, 2010
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Ok Im hoping someone has some idea of what is going on here I recently got done putting my car together its a 92 5.0 5speed I just put a b-cam, 1.72 roller rockers, gt40p heads with the trickflow spring kit, cobra intake, 70mm throttle body, 75mm mass air, and 24lb injectors well was running good for about 3 weeks and now as soon as I push my pedal down past 3/4 way down it like bogs out as long as I dont press it past that spot it runs great even after I go past that spot and it bogs I can let off just alittle and it starts pulling hard again any ideas would be great I'v been thinking possible maybe fuel pump or tps ?????? I dont know and cant afford to just throw a bunch of parts at it and hope it will fixc it so any help would be great thanks
 
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Sounds like it's running rich... Do you have a custom tune, chip, calibrated or Cobra MAF to control the 24# injectors? I would start there, and if you are using all OE parts, (no C&L, ProM) the F1ZF or F2VF MAF should use 19# injectors.
 
no Im using a 75mm c&l mass air calibrated to 24#injectors & it happens rolling down the road when a punch it no certon rpm or anything just when Im going and I floor it it bogs till I let off it alittle then it clears up and goes
 
Dumping The computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 19-May-2009 to update drawing for dumping the codes on 86-88 Mustangs with no check engine light.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

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If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

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The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

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The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.