Late Model Master Cylinder in 65

[KreagerM]

Hey Guys, I've been having some brake issues and now I'm in the process of upgrading my brakes, I'm running manual disc (granada)/drums (stock). I'm going to go with the distribution block with proportioning valve built in. Now my question is:

Will a late model mustang (or any other model for that matter) Master Cylinder, work on my 65? I like the fact I can see the brake fluid level, to me this is a lot cleaning then always popping off the lid on my old one.

I'm Ok with re-routing my exiting brake lines.

I've searched the forum, but i just want to be very sure before i spend the money. Thanks So Much Guys

Matt

 

[mudbilly]

uh........unless you're leaking brake fluid, is there really any reason to every look inside the master cylinder

 

[KreagerM]

uh........unless you're leaking brake fluid, is there really any reason to every look inside the master cylinder

Ok, well that was helpful.

 

[tx65coupe]

I actually pop the lid on my master cylinder when I change oil to look inside and check the level.

I am running the dual reservior type like the 67 up style and most of the 70's Fords had. I got it from CJ.

I can tell you that you may need to get an adjustable pushrod.

You can run a more modern style, but I'm not sure which ones interchange. I'm sure someone that is running one will post something.

Which one are you running now? Do you have 4 wheel drum or front disc?

 

[KreagerM]

Hi TX65coupe, I'm currently running disc up front and drum in the rear. I'm currently using a master cylinder from an early 70's (can't remember the model) Ford, that would have had manual disc/drums.

After searching around today I might just put disc on the back while I'm at it, but then this MC search will change to a MC that can handle manual disc/disc

Matt

 

[KreagerM]

After looking around, this idea below might just work, thoughts?

With manual disc/disc
Master Cylinder from a 94-95 cobra
SSBC distribution block with built in proportioning valve

 

[65 fastback]

After looking around, this idea below might just work, thoughts?

With manual disc/disc
Master Cylinder from a 94-95 cobra
SSBC distribution block with built in proportioning valve

I have the '93 Cobra, 15/16 MC on my '65. I got it from Street or Track - Street or Track Aluminum Master Cylinder Conversion Kit

Works great for my set up. The thing to be careful with is the piston bore size. Do you know what size is in your existing MC?

Tim

 

[Cobra ssc]

I bought the disc/disc setup from mustangsteve.com using a 2000 V6 master, but I haven't driven the car yet. I am also using the new Wilwood combination distribution/proportioning valve in one. The only issue I have found is that the MC uses different threads than the rest of the system.

 

[KreagerM]

I have the '93 Cobra, 15/16 MC on my '65. I got it from Street or Track - Street or Track Aluminum Master Cylinder Conversion Kit

Works great for my set up. The thing to be careful with is the piston bore size. Do you know what size is in your existing MC?

Tim

Tim, Yours is the same MC as the one I'm looking at getting. This is great news. Thanks so much.

The one I have now is from what i believe is a 73 ish Maverick? Not sure on the bore size of that one though.

Thanks cobra ssc, looks like I'm on the right page with the distribution block/proportioning valve as well

Matt

 

[mtaqua]

uh........unless you're leaking brake fluid, is there really any reason to every look inside the master cylinder

as the pads wear the fluid level should decrease as it will take up the empty volume in the wheel cylinder/calipers. When I change pads I always bleed this fluid out as I collapse the calipers rather than force it back into the lines. Also, with a clear master cylinder you can see the color of the fluid, in case it is getting dirty (possible other problems)

 

[TeamEntity]

hence the name..... Mudbilly.

 

[Pony66]

I just did that last weekend. If your setup is not power assisted, get a MC with 15/17 bore. The 1" bore requires more effort to stop. I am using a drum/drum MC from a mid 70s Pinto. The adapters for the brake lines were about $2.00 from NAPA.
Disconnect the rear brake line from the Distribution Block and plug the hole. The rear brake line goes to the FRONT fitting on the new MC. Then the rear fitting on the MC goes to the original Distribution block.
It was easy and a great sense of self satisfaction.
Oh, use your original MC push rod, not the new one.

 

[phutch11]

Just in case you decide to stay manual disk/drum, there are several modern AL MCs that will work, but with some tweaking.

I currently run a S10 MC, but it is a quick fill design and won't work well with your calipers. A mid 90s Dodge passenger car MC will also work- but I forget which model, maybe Daytona?

With both mentioned above you will need to oblong the mounting holes but they will work and both have 1" bores.
I am sure you know that you will need some way to positively restrain the adjustable pushrod to make sure it doesn't fall out.

I used a bent piece of metal bolted to the firewall that has a hole drilled in it for the pushrod to go through. The tip of my pushrod is bigger than its shaft so it cannot back out. Hard to describe without a picture, but very easy to fabricate.

 

[horseballz]

I've heard that the 86-88 Ford Ranger with manual brakes is a good choice with a plastic reservoir. What ever master you get, I suggest that you find a brand that does NOT have the rod pre-installed, as you will destroy the master getting the rod out, if it's the wrong length for your application.
HTH,
Gene

 

[chockostang]

Hey Guys, I've been having some brake issues and now I'm in the process of upgrading my brakes, I'm running manual disc (granada)/drums (stock). I'm going to go with the distribution block with proportioning valve built in. Now my question is:

Will a late model mustang (or any other model for that matter) Master Cylinder, work on my 65? I like the fact I can see the brake fluid level, to me this is a lot cleaning then always popping off the lid on my old one.

I'm Ok with re-routing my exiting brake lines.

I've searched the forum, but i just want to be very sure before i spend the money. Thanks So Much Guys

Matt

The 74 Maverick Dual bowl Manual Disc Master is made with 15/16" bore , Front Disc, rear Drum brakes.

Bolts to your firewall, pedal with the Maverick Push rod, or you can use the old push rod.

As stated elsewhere, Bigger is not better in the bore 1" or better is NOT correct for Manual application.

Buy new, Never buy a used Master/ Rebuilt master.

Why are you buying a Combination valve?? Again as has been stated, simply plug the hole you take the rear brake line out of the Distribution block, insert that rear brake line in the front bowl of the new Master. Put a inline Proportioning valve in the rear brake line Anywhere in the line from master to above the rear end.

Front brake lines will run through the distribution block as it has for years.

Dan @ Chockostang
chockostangclassicmustang

 

[2+2GT]

The 74 Maverick Dual bowl Manual Disc Master is made with 15/16" bore , Front Disc, rear Drum brakes.

Bolts to your firewall, pedal with the Maverick Push rod, or you can use the old push rod.

As stated elsewhere, Bigger is not better in the bore 1" or better is NOT correct for Manual application.

Buy new, Never buy a used Master/ Rebuilt master.

Why are you buying a Combination valve?? Again as has been stated, simply plug the hole you take the rear brake line out of the Distribution block, insert that rear brake line in the front bowl of the new Master. Put a inline Proportioning valve in the rear brake line Anywhere in the line from master to above the rear end.

Front brake lines will run through the distribution block as it has for years.

+1 on all the above. 1966 Shelby Hertz rental cars had a warning on the dash that the brakes (with the big piston) were hard. No kidding.

The only rebuilt master I would use is one rebuilt by me, and I'm not so sure about me.

Installing the combo valve would be more work and more expense than simply plugging the old rear outlet on the divider you have, and connecting the proportioning valve and rear line directly to the bowl on the master. Unless you have a Granada block already, then it's just a lotta work.

 

[196556]

i did the granada conversion 8 years ago on my 65 and used a new master for a granada from autozone have had no problems. I have considered trying to use the new hydroboost from a late looks like it would take less room than a vac boost and maybe be cleaner looking?

 

[palerider94]

Not to steal the thread but I did a similiar switch using granada parts. I still ran lines thru orig distrib block and then put an inline porportion valve for th back. Is this route ok or should I have plugged rear port on distribution block and ran rear straight off MC (with inline porpotioning valve) as a couple of you suggested? What problems could this cause if any? thanks